Rust removal on a bandsaw

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Mark

Mark

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I inherited a 14" Craftsman Bandsaw from my Grandfather. He passed in 2001 and the bandsaw has been in my garage until January 2010. As you can imagine there is a thin coat of rust on the table. Just from my use of the saw, the rust is slowly disappearing. Is there a certain way I should go about cleaning it up? Steel wool, sanding it? Then how to protect it for the future.

Thx in advance....
 
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Steel Wool and WD-40, I have.

The Evapo-Rust looks interesting. I may try that on some of the other tools I inherited at the same time.

Thanks very much. Off to the shop....
 
I have reconditioned MANY cast tools. My weapon of choice is to start with Krud Kutter (buy it by the gallon CHEAP ($10) in the paint section of HD). Spray it on until it pools on the tool, let it set 15 minutes. Wipe up with a dry terry towel. REPEAT.

Then, spray the cleaned area with PLENTY of WD40 (also MUCH cheaper by the gallon at HD) and use a good quality wire brush in a drill. When the surface begins to shine, use either 0, 00, 000, or 000 steel wool over the wire brush to take out the swirls from the previous steps.

When the surface looks like new, coat with Boeshield. This stuff is expensive, but nothing else works as well. After you put this much effort into restoring a tool, you want it to last. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, ESPECIALLY IN A HUMID SUMMER ENVIRONMENT.

After this step, I use either SG Johnson's Paste Wax or MinWax Paste Wax and an auto buffer to make the tool slick. I have restored hundreds of tools (flea market junkie) and this will make your tool look just like it did when new, except it does not erase the character, such as small dings, deep scratches, which IMHO SHOULD REMAIN to give the tool its proper dignity.

Please post before and after pictures. You'll get a lot of BS on this proceedure here, but trust me on this.

SAND PAPER DOES NOT BELONG ANYWHERE NEAR A PRECISION TOOL UNLESS YOU WANT TO RUIN THE EXACTNESS OF THE SPECIFICATIONS TO WHICH OLDER TOOLS WERE BUILT.
 
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Thank you Andy. I'm off tomorrow night for a long weekend. :smile:

I'll look at the supplies early next week and see what's what.

I have a radial arm saw, another drill press, a table saw and several machines used for sharpening. They all need some attention from sitting in the garage for so long.
 
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Bostick is made in the USA, right here in Michigan. They have the full line of top rated products, rated #1 by wood magazine for rust protection. Their rust remover is caustic, like if you want to use it you might pull that thing outside, it'll put hair on your chest and take the paint right off the machine! Just spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it off and it'll take the rust right out including down in the pits of the metal, then spray on the top coat. They also have Dry coat, which is a friction reducer, you put that on after the top coat..especially a good thing to put on a fence for nice sliding action.

errr...maybe it's Boshield? gets confusing all these products, but I know it's made right here in the Wolverine State!
 
I use scotchbrite pads and Trewax and lots of elbow grease. This is a time honored technique used in the printing industry for the beds of the guillotine cutters. Wipe some on every month or so as a preventative measure.
 
Being a bit fond of old woodworking arn, the best way I have found, especially for light rust is a quick dip in the ol' spooge tank. Quick rinse and a light coat of oil and your off and running. Thicker scale gets a quick massage with the needle scaler then into the tank. No need to try and figure out which magic potion works better than the rest. With cast iron tops, I treat them just like seasoning the wife's skillets. CI, when heated expands, and since it is porous, it will soak up a bit more oil if you heat it up with a propane torch. Doesn't need to get to hot. Just enough to thin the oil a bit. Let it cool and wipe it down.
 
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workinforwood said:
Bostick is made in the USA, right here in Michigan. They have the full line of top rated products, rated #1 by wood magazine for rust protection. Their rust remover is caustic, like if you want to use it you might pull that thing outside, it'll put hair on your chest and take the paint right off the machine! Just spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it off and it'll take the rust right out including down in the pits of the metal, then spray on the top coat. They also have Dry coat, which is a friction reducer, you put that on after the top coat..especially a good thing to put on a fence for nice sliding action.

errr...maybe it's Boshield? gets confusing all these products, but I know it's made right here in the Wolverine State!
Click to expand...

Boeshield says it is made in Michigan... Developed by Boeing Aviation. I love Boeshield. It is the best I have found. I'd stay away from their rust remover as it also eats away paint, hair, rubber gloves and is horrible on the lungs. Krud Kutter is do almost as well (in 2 applications) and isn't nearly so hard on painted surfaces.
 
I'm removing the rust off the table of a Dewalt Scroll Saw and the table of a 14" Band Saw that are from Craigslist ... I've been using some of the wife's cleaner called 'Bar Keepers Friend' and scotchbright pads and it does a pretty good job.
 
Thanks much folks. Hopefully get some time this weekend to go about collecting the products.

My wife took it upon herself to hit the table with WD-40 and steel wool. WOW. Big improvement, I still want more "SHINE" :biggrin:
 
I use "Rust Free" to remove the rust - simply spray it on, let sit for 1-2 minutes and wipe off. To protect the surface and make workpieces glide nicely, use Top Coat by Bostik. For a newly de-rustified surface apply two coats. Pretty easy to use stuff - spray it on, wait 1-2 minutes, buff. The surface will remain super slippery for about a week or so before you need a re-application. I purchased both of these products from my local Woodcraft store. Jason
 
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