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lorbay

lorbay

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
3,396
Location
BC. Canada
So I have a bump in my collet chuck, when I mean bump it has 7 thou run out. I have always thought there was something wrong with it. So today I decided to get the dial indicator out and check it. On the head stock in the MT2 taper there is zero run-out, on the collet chuck on the inside where the collet seats is the .0007 run-out. So wondering if it is just the collet holder I put a 1/2 collet in and piece of drill rod in it and that was .0007 out. Any suggestions what to do to fix it or just buy a new holder.?? Thanks in advance for your help.

Lin.
 
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Not trying to be smarta** but I think you probably mean .007? Because if you really mean .0007 you have no runout to speak of.

Mike
 
Unless you have the ability and tools to re grind the collet holder a new one is in order. That means that you can try and fix it and if you only make it worse you were having to replace it anyway.
 
Before you "regrind", "retool" or throw out a collet chuck, please describe how you assemble and load the collets.

Most times the problems with collet chucks come from improper loading.
It is very difficult for a collet chuck to "go bad" unless you hit it a few hundred times with a chisel.
 
PenMan1 said:
Before you "regrind", "retool" or throw out a collet chuck, please describe how you assemble and load the collets.

Most times the problems with collet chucks come from improper loading.
It is very difficult for a collet chuck to "go bad" unless you hit it a few hundred times with a chisel.
Click to expand...

Andy if you read my post it says I measured the collet holder on the inside before any collets were loaded, then loaded a collet and drill rod to confirm. And yes I put the collet in the ring before loading.:smile:

Lin.
 
Lin :
I did read the post and I am simply trying to re-confirm. You mentioned the m2 taper. If this is a Beall, PSI or Aprentice er32 chuck and the runout is 7 thousandths inside the ER32 taper, it sounds like you got a bad chuck.

If it is, in fact, an MT 1 or 2 type chuck, it could very well be a problem with the taper.

I'm just trying to help you "touch all the bases" before shelling out $100 for a new collet chuck.
 
Andy the MT2 is in the head stock of the lathe and my collet holder is an 1 1/4 x 8 tpi and is a Beall. So I am thinking it's a bad chuck.

Lin.
 
Lin,
I have the Beall chuck, same mounting style as yours.
It would be worth checking this; clean the spindle face, where the back end of the collet seats, the back of the chuck, and the threads, male and female.
Check for burrs here, also.
Then, check the run-out on the outside of the chuck, then the inside.
If they correlate, it could be that your chuck is not defective,
but just drawing down askew.
 
Lin:
It just about HAS to be the chuck. And unless you have "really ratcheted down" on the retaining ring (and that's really hard to do), this could be a manufacturing defect. Unless there is a burr at the headstock screw.

I would contact Beall. Unless the er32 is really scared up, they might replace this as it points to being their problem.

Did the runout just "start one day" or has the chuck always seemed to run out? I'm sure there is a way.....but I find it hard to imagine a competent user like you could damage the ER taper?
 
PenMan1 said:
Lin:
It just about HAS to be the chuck. And unless you have "really ratcheted down" on the retaining ring (and that's really hard to do), this could be a manufacturing defect. Unless there is a burr at the headstock screw.

I would contact Beall. Unless the er32 is really scared up, they might replace this as it points to being their problem.

Did the runout just "start one day" or has the chuck always seemed to run out? I'm sure there is a way.....but I find it hard to imagine a competent user like you could damage the ER taper?
Click to expand...
Andy I think it's always been there and it wasn't until I bought my new General midi lathe and a new 1 x 8 tpi collet chuck that I noticed it.

Lin.
 
I'd check John's recommendations, and if all is good there, I'd call Beall. They are great folks and I'd almost bet that they will replace the chuck body!

In this economy, $100 for a replacement on a tool that should last for life, is a lot of money
 
johnnycnc said:
Lin,
I have the Beall chuck, same mounting style as yours.
It would be worth checking this; clean the spindle face, where the back end of the collet seats, the back of the chuck, and the threads, male and female.
Check for burrs here, also.
Then, check the run-out on the outside of the chuck, then the inside.
If they correlate, it could be that your chuck is not defective,
but just drawing down askew.
Click to expand...

John, yes it reads the same on the out as the inside. So I checked the head stock face and it is very clean and the back of the chuck is clean also. Its almost like the 1 1/4" thread is bent, but then the MT2 would have run out and there is none. Plus on a Vicmarc VL 300 with double taper roller bearings I don't know if anyone could bend that.:confused:

Lin.
 
i second John's comment about calling Beall, they are great folks and stand behind their work! Hey, sometimes this type of stuff happens, we ARE human you know, and tend to make mistakes. :-)
 
seamus7227 said:
i second John's comment about calling Beall, they are great folks and stand behind their work! Hey, sometimes this type of stuff happens, we ARE human you know, and tend to make mistakes. :-)
Click to expand...

To their defense, I have had this thing for over 3 years and have also added knurling to the ring. It was one of those things that was a heck of a lot better than what I was using and got used to it, until I bought a new one and now find out it wasn't me, it was the chuck. :biggrin::biggrin:

Lin.
 
On a thread on chuck or collet chuck, I think the face is what holds the alignment, not the threads. There is too much play in the threads to hold alignment. I'm a little confused about 1 1/4 thread and 1" thread on a General lathe. Do you have an adaptor in there? Those things are famous for being poorly made. Hope I just didn't zone out reading about the threads. I would chuck on that bar stock you have in the Beal chuck with another chuck or drill chuck, and measure runout on the face of the collet chuck. Good luck.
 
Are you using one of the plastic washers so it won't stick on the headstock? They can throw off the chuck. I had to quit using the plastic washer with my collet chucks, because it was the problem.
 
dogcatcher said:
Are you using one of the plastic washers so it won't stick on the headstock? They can throw off the chuck. I had to quit using the plastic washer with my collet chucks, because it was the problem.
Click to expand...

No I never use those, I learn't that from Lyle Jamieson as he said there was never meant to be anything between there and the head stock.

Lin.
 
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