Rules of thumb for spongy woods?

  • Thread starter Thread starter monkeynutz
  • Start date Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

monkeynutz

Guest
Once again, forgive my noobiness, but I promise I'll never ask a dumb question twice... [:I]

Looked at some spongy-type wood blanks (spalts and burls, etc) and I think it's pretty much out of the question to try to get most of them down to a slimline profile. Even some of the stabilized blanks I've seen look like they'd have to be a quarter inch thick on the tubes to stay together on the lathe, even with the sharpest tools.

So, I was wondering on whether there is any rule of thumb for minimum dimensions for turning these types of woods, and if multiple CA applications during turning might provide some latitude.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Multiple applications of CA may even afford you the opportunity to make a slimline.
I don't think any pen has a 1/4" thick barrel -- none I've seen yet anyway.
On the softest woods, I drizzle CA over the entire blank before starting.
CA before drilling.
CA inside the hole after drilling then clean it out with the drill bit again.
CA often while turning.
 
What Gary said about the CA.

One thing you need to realize is that the slimline wood walls are more often thicker than the wood walls of the bigger pens. The bigger pens need a larger diameter hole to accomidate the larger brass tubes. The El Grande/Churchill pen is considered a large diameter pen, but it probably has the least amount of wood left after the pen is turned.
 
Originally posted by monkeynutz


So, I was wondering on whether there is any rule of thumb for minimum dimensions for turning these types of woods, and if multiple CA applications during turning might provide some latitude.
Click to expand...

I have only one rule for soft or punky woods that you have not pre-stabilized, CA is your friend.
 
Monkey, you can soak soft wood drilled and cut to length in quick drying polyurethane or varathane mixed with 40% or 50% actone, there are other thing people use, untill it sinks, with a vacuum works faster takes 2 to 4 weeks or more to dry. There has been alot wrote up on this if you can find it. CA works to and is faster.
Bob
 
Originally posted by igran7

What Gary said about the CA.

One thing you need to realize is that the slimline wood walls are more often thicker than the wood walls of the bigger pens. The bigger pens need a larger diameter hole to accomidate the larger brass tubes. The El Grande/Churchill pen is considered a large diameter pen, but it probably has the least amount of wood left after the pen is turned.
Click to expand...
Good point. Thanks for the eye-opener. And thanks to you other guys... I guess I'm gonna get me a 55-gal. drum of CA and have at it. I'll try not to end up gluing myself to... well, to myself. :D
 
Buy from Monty, use lots of CA.. I usually soak this type of blank in thin CA since I don't have any other set up to stabilize and am too cheap to send them to real stabilizers...:D:D --- be careful of the fumes when you do this.
 
Starting to get the impression that there is stabilized, and then there's stabilized... Looked at som redwood burl blanks the other day that the seller said were stabilized. Smelled like they had been soaked in turpentine, and were still so soft I could easily gouge them with a fingernail. Is this right?
 
That don't sound like the ones I have bought have been very hard, the ones i do with poly get pretty hard but not as hard as the ones I have bought. My helper went to bed someone will have to take over.
Bob
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom