I was wondering if anyone could tell me the best paint to use when reverse painting. I used some acryllic paint and glues the tube in, and while turning the tube actually came loose and I pulled it out and noticed that the paint had been completely wipped away. I did let paint dry overnight before applying glue.
Reverse painting
- Thread starter sumterdad
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
All I can tell you is I have used the cheap $1 can of spray paint from Walley World and Lowe's and Krylon and Rustoleum with no problems.
So far the only one that has not worked is Duplicolor. I found a metallic blue in the Duplicolor brand and it has failed three times. The tube came loose while turning and no paint showing on the tube.
So far the only one that has not worked is Duplicolor. I found a metallic blue in the Duplicolor brand and it has failed three times. The tube came loose while turning and no paint showing on the tube.
randyrls
Member
Second that vote from Monty; I use lacquer rather than enamel. Just two quick spritzes into the blank; let dry overnight; rough the brass tube, glue in with CA.
Drstrangefart
Member
I'm currently working with the acrylic craft stuff. It takes a little practice and some refinement to ypur touch. I'm having fewer tubes break loose now. Try putting a bunch of glue in the end of the blank you DON'T stick the tube in so there's extra glue to spread around. It's a bit of a bear to get run through the pen mill, but it's effective. Let the glue dry for a long time, too.
Justturnin
Member
I am using Rustoleum, because I have it. To pain the tubes I put a little play-do on one side then stick a skewer through that and paint it. I stick it in the ground to dry. Looked like a tube graveyard in my backyard yesterday. For the blanks I spray the paint onto a piece of waxpaper and use a q-tip to paint in there. Never casted around a painted tube so I cant help you there.
Turned Around
Member
i just use thestors paint from wal-mart or hobby lobby. haven't had a problem yet.
cwolfs69
Member
ive started using the testers model paint myself and love it. one thing i have found for sure is to let it set. i try to not glue for at least 4-5 hours and then dont turn after gluing for 24 hours. every time i try to rush, problems.
Sent from my Galaxi via forerunner
Sent from my Galaxi via forerunner
Jon-wx5nco
Member
Ok, dumb question time. So you guys are getting a blank, cutting it to size, drilling it out, and then putting a few squirts of spray paint (or some paint on a cue tip) and painting the inside of the whole? I was just using a sharpy and coloring the tube before I glued it in. If this is what y'all are doing, I will be going to wally world this weekend to get paint!
Jon
Jon
jbswearingen
Member
Turned Around
Member
the testors works well and have a TON fo colors so you're not limited to the sharpie colors you've been using. you can use coordinating colors or go a different way. each color changes the acrylic look on the outside just a bit.
Jon-wx5nco
Member
Thats way too kewl! I hate to say this, but I'm actually looking forward to going to wally world this weekend. SHHH DON'T TELL SWMBO!!! about my excitement about going! :laugh:
BSea
Member
The problem with your method is that with really clear blanks, you can see the glue. The tube may not be visible, but the glue looks really rough under the blank. It really depends on the blank if your method would work. IMHO it's best to paint the blank & the tube, and tint the glue with just a touch of the paint.
jbswearingen
Member
My Wally World doesn't carry the paint (or I just haven't found it), but my local Michael's carries the little square bottles for about $1.50 each. LOTS of colors to choose from.
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
I didn't mention it earlier, but I rough the tube and spray both the tube and the inside of the blank. To spray the tube, I have several thin wires suspended in my shop. I can thread 3-4 tubes on each wire, with a slight kink between tubes to keep them from touching each other while the paint dries. I always wait at least overnight before I glue the tubes in the painted blanks with thick CA.
brez
Member
Do you have to drill a larger hole in the blank to allow for the thickness of the paint?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
BlackPearl
Member
I guess powder coating the tubes would allow the glue to show and that is why you paint the blanks?
I am starting to talk my self out of my "jones" for a powder coating set up. Darn.
I am starting to talk my self out of my "jones" for a powder coating set up. Darn.
Live2Dive
Member
Here is what I do.
I use rattle can paint (brand not real important) and spray the tubes slid on an old coat hanger shaped pedestal and toss them into the toaster oven for 5 minutes. For the blanks, I throw one squirt into each hole and spread it around with a q-tip. Toss into the toaster oven for 5 minutes.
I started back painting by spraying the tubes/blanks and letting them dry over night. I am not very patient when it comes to that kind of waiting, so I went up to the Goodwill around the corner and bought my practically new toaster oven for $2.50. Granted, it was on sale that day for 50% off all white tags. BONUS!
I have tried the toaster oven method with acrylic paints, and they bubbled on the tubes. Not all of them, but one or two. Now, I stick with spray paint for every thing.
My .02
I use rattle can paint (brand not real important) and spray the tubes slid on an old coat hanger shaped pedestal and toss them into the toaster oven for 5 minutes. For the blanks, I throw one squirt into each hole and spread it around with a q-tip. Toss into the toaster oven for 5 minutes.
I started back painting by spraying the tubes/blanks and letting them dry over night. I am not very patient when it comes to that kind of waiting, so I went up to the Goodwill around the corner and bought my practically new toaster oven for $2.50. Granted, it was on sale that day for 50% off all white tags. BONUS!
I have tried the toaster oven method with acrylic paints, and they bubbled on the tubes. Not all of them, but one or two. Now, I stick with spray paint for every thing.
My .02
Brooks803
Member
Mike, drill the needed size hole first. Do a dry test fit with the tube. If there is a small amount of play already don't go any larger. Continue to dry test fit after each coat of paint to make sure there's room for the glue.
DurocShark
Member
I use Testors when going for a non-standard color. Standard colors get the Rustoleum high-coverage rattle cans.
I don't paint tubes. I reverse paint the hole in the blank. No need to mess with the tubes.
For clear blanks I will use a q-tip dipped in acetone to remove the worst scratches. Then paint. The high coverage stuff only takes one coat usually, except the red for some reason, and the testors will always need two coats.
EDIT: It's Rustoleum Ultra-Cover: http://rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=21
I don't paint tubes. I reverse paint the hole in the blank. No need to mess with the tubes.
For clear blanks I will use a q-tip dipped in acetone to remove the worst scratches. Then paint. The high coverage stuff only takes one coat usually, except the red for some reason, and the testors will always need two coats.
EDIT: It's Rustoleum Ultra-Cover: http://rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=21
Last edited:
BSea
Member
I use a dowel with wet/dry sandpaper glued to it. Not only to make sure the hole is large enough, but also to get rid of any ridges caused by drilling.
Ruby pen turning
Member
I was having trouble with the paint coming off in small areas after gluing and was only seen after polishing. Someone here suggested spray paint made for plastic which Krylon make one called Fusion paint. I have not had a problem since. I paint the tube with Rustolium enamel and the inside of the PR blank with the Fusion. So far so good.
GrantH
Member
Older thread, but hopefully it will be of some help to me. Does anyone have any (safe) way to remove pen tubes? I have my colla blank from exotic and stupid ol' me having never done these transparent blanks forgot to paint my brass tubes. DOH! Anyone???? Can I fix this somehow?
Phunky_2003
Member
I've removed tubes before by boning in water. Those have been pr blanks. I'm not sure I would recommend the same method with wood or in this case cholla cactus.
I have made an adapter for a glow plug that fits inside tubes, basically it's like the metal barrel trimmer inserts. Insert in blank, put glow plug inside heat for a short time, and bond will break. Careful as the plug gets hot quick.
Some use soldering guns, I could never get that method to work.
My next option would be to forgo all the frustration and order another blank.
I have made an adapter for a glow plug that fits inside tubes, basically it's like the metal barrel trimmer inserts. Insert in blank, put glow plug inside heat for a short time, and bond will break. Careful as the plug gets hot quick.
Some use soldering guns, I could never get that method to work.
My next option would be to forgo all the frustration and order another blank.
Rfturner
Member
Nail polish works great and there are nearly infinite colors. I have used Testors before but it cost 3-4 times as much with the same effect.
GoatRider
Member
Acrylic paint doesn't stick to plastic very well, but I learned back in my wargaming scenery painting days to add something called glass and tile medium. It basically turns any acrylic paint into a primer, so it will stick. I've reverse painted one acrylic blank that way, and it worked well. I mix about 1 part G&T to 3 parts paint, any more and it starts getting transparent.
You can get this at any craft store, like michaels or joanne fabrics. It's with the craft paints.
You can get this at any craft store, like michaels or joanne fabrics. It's with the craft paints.
Heat is a very good way of breaking the bond. I would try the soldering gun and put a metal sleeve on it and get it nice and hot. after a few slow passes you should see the glue to start to break its bond. Some also have use acetone. but I dont know what that will do to your blank.
tkbarron
Member
Hey all,
I'll add something that has worked for me when I need to paint my tubes. It's not actually paint though. It's a product called "Blacken-It" that I picked up from a local Hobbytown. It costs about $9 for a 4 oz. bottle.
I scuff my tubes then soak in the solvent for 10 minutes or so. It needs to fully dry though before going to the glue stage.
Tom
I'll add something that has worked for me when I need to paint my tubes. It's not actually paint though. It's a product called "Blacken-It" that I picked up from a local Hobbytown. It costs about $9 for a 4 oz. bottle.
I scuff my tubes then soak in the solvent for 10 minutes or so. It needs to fully dry though before going to the glue stage.
Tom
qballizhere
Member
If all else fails drill the tube out and grab another.
tkbarron
Member
All,
I need to take back what I said about Blacken-It. I just blew very nice blanks! The stuff doesn't change the actual color of the brass. Instead it creates a coating that doesn't bond well enough for turning. I took these pictures to offer as proof.
Sorry if I caused any trouble.
Thanks,
Tom
I need to take back what I said about Blacken-It. I just blew very nice blanks! The stuff doesn't change the actual color of the brass. Instead it creates a coating that doesn't bond well enough for turning. I took these pictures to offer as proof.
Sorry if I caused any trouble.
Thanks,
Tom
