I think you have a good start. I would add a bit on safety equipment like nitrile gloves, eye protection and respirator. Also…
PR - very strong odor and should be used in a well ventilated area or with respirator, and how it finishes to a very clear glass like shine, and Only requires 3-4 drops of catalyst per ounce of resin.
Epoxy - the softest resin with less of an odor than PR but harder to get a shiny finish.
Urethane - no odor, working time varies "clear" (7min) vs "clear slow" (12 min). If making a deeper pours, use "clear slow" to avoid thermal cracking. Also available in "tan- white or black" (3 min working time). To maximize your working time, use an electric drill to mix. If your seeing white streaks or film in the cast it wasn't mixed throughly and if there is foam is was exposed to moisture.
Not all dyes are compatible with all resins. Use the dyes made for each type.(PR dyes won't work with Urethane resins) Micas work well with them all except for "tan - black - or white resin" because they cure opaque and will drown out the mica. And although pressure isn't needed for all of them, if casting tube on material or embedded objects - pressure should be considered or used if possible to avoid air hanging up along the material.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. I've been demoing casting for several years and use PR and Urethane all the time.
