Replacing on/off switch on Jet1442 w/Reeves unit

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
8,206
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA.
I've asked this question on another forum, but since I frequent here too thought would check with the brotherhood....

My lathe is a 2007/2008 JET1442 with a Reeves unit. I broke the belt last week and order a new one with spares and put the new belt on today...
that in itself is a chore, but have gotten it down to about a 45 to 60 minute chore.
After I finished putting it back together and tried to run the lathe, the on/of switch did not turn the lathe on.... I flipped it back and forth several time and did get
it on one time, then nothing.... it's the original switch and I've used this lathe since 2008, so it may be just worn out and needs replacing.

Question is, are there any tricks and/or tips for changing the switch.... there's very little working room inside the head stock and the wiring does appear to be mostly
inside the head stock. Another problem will be the lathe sits with its back to the wall and the head stock seems to be frozen in place, so I can't turn it on the ways to
get better access.... I'll have to swing the headstock end away from the wall, which is a new chore as I have a cabinet built under the ways that adds a bit of weight to
the lathe.

I do plan to call JET tomorrow and speak to a tech there, but they aren't always that helpful.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,829
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
Chuck; Things that occur to me. Jet *MAY* have replacement switches, but that is iffy.

Hmmmm; I searched and found the switch. Salty but may work.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-jwl1442vs-708358-wood-lathe-parts-c-32652_32854_155049.html

I have found a bottle jack to lift the lathe up and some Harbor Freight moving dollies useful in moving a lathe.

1. The switches are not sealed so blowing the switch / head stock out with compressed air may solve the problem.

2. Switches arc when turned on and off. The contacts wear away and after a time won't make contact. A partial solution is to add a "safety switch" I use as an emergency switch. Mine has added magnets on the back so I can move it where it needs to be, but my lathe had a control panel so no physical switch.

https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

3. The switch may be a standard switch you can replace from suppliers like Digikey. Companies don't design new / different items if they can purchase off-the-shelf items.

PS; I have a 35 year old Shopsmith and I can still order parts from them!

PPS; I had a table saw turn on as I reached over the exposed blade. No damage, but I had to throw that pair of undies away! Added "kill" switches to all my tools.
 
Last edited:

BULLWINKLE

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
652
Location
Georgia
Another possible reason may be dirt, oils or corrosion on the switches contacts. If that is what the problem is the fix is easy. Spray liberally with electrical contact cleaner. It is a strong solvent that evaporates quickly. Can't remember where I got it but should be easy to find online.
03A1FB02-1BFC-44AA-BD1F-9530D89C80DD.jpeg
 

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,545
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
The problem could be a buildup of crud in the switch that a solvent might clean out. However, it may also be the case that the switch is defective, or that it is sealed in a way that makes it impossible to spray a contact cleaner into it. So replacing the switch may be necessary, and that then leads to the problem of finding a replacement. Given the age of the lathe, finding an exact replacement could be a challenge., and retrofitting a foreign switch inside the headstock could be a hassle.

Several years ago, I added a reversing switch on my lathe, and opted to put it in a plastic housing that I attached to the lathe with a magnet. I bought a circular magnet from Harbor Freight (they come in a variety of sizes - the 2" diameter was small enough to be convenient, and large enough to provide more than enough strength to hold it in place). I found a box on Amazon that appeared to have been intended as a junction box for an outdoor security system - the cover is equipped with a weathertight gasket. When I checked a few minutes ago, I found that the box I bought is no longer available, but there are many others to choose from.

So my inclination would be to bypass the existing switch and then add an external box with a new switch. When I did the reversing switch on my variable speed lathe, I put it between the controller and the motor, and attached the box to the back of the lathe since I didn't expect to reverse directions very often, and certainly didn't want to put the switch where I might inadvertently operate it at the wrong time. But since this is a Reeves drive, it could probably just be a simple in-line installation in the power cord to the lathe. And in addition to minimizing the hassle of trying to work inside the headstock, you would have the benefit of being able to choose whatever switch you want rather than trying to find something that fits, and you could make the connection long enough that you have the freedom to move the switch around depending on the project you are turning.
 

Woodchipper

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
5,235
Location
Cleveland, TN
Randy S. has a valuable link. Found things that the OEM discontinued Example: blade wrenches for a Ryobi BT3000 tablesaw.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
8,206
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA.
E-replacements has the switch, just wondering how difficult it will be to replace and if anyone had any tips... I've blown the switch out with air, so there little or no dust inside the switch... may try the contact cleaner if local hardware store carries it.
I'm a little leery of electrical work... have had my hair curled more than once.
 

Gary Beasley

Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
1,326
Location
Marietta, Ga. USA
E-replacements has the switch, just wondering how difficult it will be to replace and if anyone had any tips... I've blown the switch out with air, so there little or no dust inside the switch... may try the contact cleaner if local hardware store carries it.
I'm a little leery of electrical work... have had my hair curled more than once.
From what I could see on the exploded diagram the switch is held in with a couple of screws. Switch should pull out with the wires, hopefully far enough you can swap wires from the old switch to the new switch one at a time so nothing gets misplaced.
 
Top Bottom