Ren Wax or another wax?

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bvanwie

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Mar 14, 2008
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Athens, GA, USA.
Will something like Johnson paste wax produce a similar result to Ren Wax? I have yet to use either, but I can pick up Johnson wax at Lowe's, whereas Ren wax seems a bit harder to come by. What benefits am I getting from a wax after a CA coat on wood followed by a 12k MM sanding, or just a 12k MM sanding on acrylic? Sorry for the noob questions, but I gotta learn somewhere. :)
 
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To me there is a purity about the product. It's almost a clear wax.
but doesn't really feel oily.
The yellowish shellacs seem to fade more quickly and
build up a film faster that Ren, I like Ren Wax.

I am going to buy some TSW to try as well.
Neodon1 [8D]
 
I've heard and learned a great deal about Ren Wax.....I've never used it so I can't speak from experience. From what I understand, it is more durable than other waxes, and clearer, but not as durable, or as clear as CA, so why put it on a pen after CA? it may protect the CA a little, but probably not much really...and it isn't as clear as CA, so overall clarity of hte finish would be diminished slightly. These are just my ponderings really - like I said, I've not tried it....just speculating.
 
I'll give another vote to Ren Wax. I did have one customer who said that the finish was to hard to hold onto so I replaced the pen with one that i didn't put wax on. Got to keep the people happy.
 
TSW-TSW-TSW and its readily alivalible at Arizona Silhouette.I've used both and IMHO TSW gives more shine than Ren Wax and the wax last longer thats my 2 cents .
 
Roy, I don't want to get into a whole debate about TSW/RenWax but I tried the TSW and it left white 'chalkiness' in the wood itself, I'd like to know how you avoid that with the TSW. Do you power buff it out? I make wood mechanical puzzles and I happened to use some on some wenge and it embedded the white chalky residue into the grain and I was unable to remove it with buffing.:(
 
Originally posted by devowoodworking

Roy, I don't want to get into a whole debate about TSW/RenWax but I tried the TSW and it left white 'chalkiness' in the wood itself, I'd like to know how you avoid that with the TSW. Do you power buff it out? I make wood mechanical puzzles and I happened to use some on some wenge and it embedded the white chalky residue into the grain and I was unable to remove it with buffing.:(
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Without debate, if you leave the grain open, the carnauba and poly will collect in it. The product is meant to be used as a top coat for finished wood and acrylics. Simply put, the wax in TSW is carnauba and the wax in Ren Wax is petroleum-based. The choice is up to the user and his/her experience and ability.
 
I have, and use both. As noted, do NOT use TSW on anything with open grain. You will not be happy with the result. Unlike others, though, I haven't noticed a huge difference between the two.
 
Okay, just to complicate things and confuse me a little more, at what point does Tripoli and White Diamond come into play? Is that "in addition to" or "instead of" Ren Wax?
 
I also use Ren. wax as the final polish after pen is assembled. It helps protect and also keeps fingerprints from showing on the metal parts every time someone picks the pen up. It can also be found at woodcraft stores and one can lasts a very looonnnngggggg time. I've applied it over CA and Friction Finishes with no problems. Good luck with your finishes.
 
Originally posted by bvanwie

Okay, just to complicate things and confuse me a little more, at what point does Tripoli and White Diamond come into play? Is that "in addition to" or "instead of" Ren Wax?
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Tripoli and White Diamond are used to polish the blank and/or the finish (e.g. CA). Ren Wax (or TSW) is used as a final step after sanding/polishing the finish to help "pop" and protect the finish for a short time.

I use the Beall buffing system http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

Examples:

For a PR blank I sand using 320 Abranet then take it to the polishing wheel. On the polishing wheel I first use Tripoli. I change the wheel and use white diamond. I change to a third wheel, apply renwax to the blank and buff it off with the third wheel.

For a wood blank I sand to 520 Abranet, then take it to the polishing wheel. On the polishing wheel I first use Tripoli. I change the wheel and use white diamond. Next I wipe down the blank with acetone and apply a finish (CA, Enduro, Plexi.). I let the finish cure for a week, then take the blank back to the polishing wheel to polish out the finishOn the polishing wheel I first use Tripoli. I change the wheel and use white diamond. I change to a third wheel, apply renwax (or TSW) to the blank and buff it off with the third wheel.
 
I use the Beall Buffing System with the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnuba buffing wheels. I then always finish with TSW and only TSW. I have tried Renwax and felt like TSW did a better final finish. Just my opinion, no scientific data here.
 
I use both Ren Wax and TSW and can't tell much difference. I am sure you will be happy with any (or both) of them.

I do prefer the Ren Wax when applied to the metal components. As noted, it seem to help keep finger prints off better. TSW smell a lot better though so it really is a toss up.

A little goes a long way for both and sure is worth every penny their price.
 
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