Neil
Member
I'm looking to purchase a drill chuck for my Jet mini lathe, and looking for info so any help is greatly appreciated thanks Neil
Recommendations on drill chuck
- Thread starter Neil
- Start date
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gtriever
Member
The Harbor Freight chuck is another possibility as well. The only issue I've seen with it is that the shank is a bit long.
thewishman
Member
gtriever
Member
It works well. I just have to run the tailstock quill out about 3/8 inch for it to seat on my lathe.
Mr Vic
Member
I have two of them. One is dedicated to my center drill and the other for the appropriate size drill for my blanks.
PenPal
Member
Something I learned many years ago is to use the chucks made for hammer drills and the like the jaws are so much longer and the grip so much better.
Peter.
Peter.
Woodster Will
Member
I just wish the cheap chucks I bought would grip as well as the Albrecht chuck I have. 
Buy the best you can afford.
Buy the best you can afford.
randyrls
Member
Neil; The Jet mini-lathe has a self ejecting tail stock quill. When using the chuck in the tail stock, hold onto it while retracting to keep it from releasing from the taper.
There are three types of tapers attached to a chuck. Not sizes, styles.
Hope this helps.
There are three types of tapers attached to a chuck. Not sizes, styles.
- Drawbar type. Threaded hole in the taper end. Use this type if you are going to put the chuck into the head stock. A threaded rod inserts into the chuck to keep it from releasing from its taper.
- Tang type. Has a narrow extension on the end of the taper. it is longer than a standard taper and may not fit into a standard tail stock that self ejects because it is longer than standard.
- Short taper. The taper is shorter than standard and may not self eject from the tail stock.
Hope this helps.
I got mine from Little Machine Shop. I was able to get one with a short taper that matched my tail stock w/o having to modify it.
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monophoto
Member
Some random thoughts:
I believe that the HF chuck is 3/8", whereas PSI offers both 3/8 and 1/2". My suggestion is to get a 1/2" chuck - eventually, you will need to use bits with a shank larger than 3/8". The difference in cost up front is far smaller than buying a second chuck later.
There is a choice between keyless and keyed. Keyed chucks allow you to get a tighter grip on the bit, but there is that issue of losing the chuck in the shavings around your lathe. DAMHIKT. A solution is to turn a handle for the chuck key that will allow you to apply even more torque when locking it down on a bit, and that also makes the key larger and more visible. I made a holder that mounts on the table near my tailstock to hold the key with its oversize handle.
But NEVER leave the key in the chuck when drilling. Sure, that should be OK because when drilling on the lathe, the workpiece spins and the chuck is stationary. But eventually, you will have a chuck start spinning, and if you have left the key in the chuck, that could be fatal.
I believe that the HF chuck is 3/8", whereas PSI offers both 3/8 and 1/2". My suggestion is to get a 1/2" chuck - eventually, you will need to use bits with a shank larger than 3/8". The difference in cost up front is far smaller than buying a second chuck later.
There is a choice between keyless and keyed. Keyed chucks allow you to get a tighter grip on the bit, but there is that issue of losing the chuck in the shavings around your lathe. DAMHIKT. A solution is to turn a handle for the chuck key that will allow you to apply even more torque when locking it down on a bit, and that also makes the key larger and more visible. I made a holder that mounts on the table near my tailstock to hold the key with its oversize handle.
But NEVER leave the key in the chuck when drilling. Sure, that should be OK because when drilling on the lathe, the workpiece spins and the chuck is stationary. But eventually, you will have a chuck start spinning, and if you have left the key in the chuck, that could be fatal.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1148&category=
1/32" to 1/2" with Short taper for Jet 1014 mini lathe. $22
A pro grade is a bit more but less runout.
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1/32" to 1/2" with Short taper for Jet 1014 mini lathe. $22
A pro grade is a bit more but less runout.
Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
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RobS
Member
I went little machine shop keyless and short taper for my 1221jet. It works great. Make sure you hold the chuck while drilling and clear the chips often.
Shop and around and if you want give this guy a shout. He sells a brand called Harvest. I own 2..one for my drill press and one for my lathe: VM Woodworking..you have to call him though: 7704349080. He has some other interesting quality WW tools at fair prices. I found him though Dave of D-Way tools. It just so happens that this chuck guy is in GA, where I am. Enjoy whatever you decide.
randyrls
Member
Good info Louie!
I just epoxy a rare earth magnet to the the end of the key shaft. PONK! it goes back in the same place every time! I was always walking away from the drill press with the key in hand and then having to look for it after laying it down somewhere.:frown:
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JimB
Member
The HF chuck is 1/2". I've had mine for about 9 years and it still works great.
Woodchipper
Member
HF- works for me.
Get a neodymium magnet or two to put on your lathe and hold small tools.
Most people don't tighten keyed chucks correctly. They tighten all the way with one keyway instead of alternating. They also over tighten which ruins the chuck. The keyless gets rid of these issues. I have been told many times by people the keyless wears out faster. Not sure about that, but I have gotten my use out of all the ones I own.
I've used lots of keyed chucks and as long as you don't over-tighten with a cheater bar, tighten at all the spots, etc, they work great.
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