Recommendations for Upgrade Fountain Pen

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Rangertrek

Rangertrek

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Sep 10, 2008
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Bossier City, Louisiana, USA
I have only been turning pens about 2 months. I think I am fairly good with the techniques and finishes.
My company is an architectural firm. We recently completed a renovation of Centenary College gymnasium. I have a few pieces of the old gym floor.
We want to make a upgrade fountain pen, from the gym floor wood, to give to the college president. I want to do this with an upgrade kit. Kit cost is not a problem (company paying :smile:).
I need some suggestions on what kit I should try.
I have looked at Majestic from PSI.
I will look at Berea and Woodcraft.
My concerns are experience with turning an upgrade and need a kit that may be a little forgiving.
Thanks for any recommendations.
 
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Upgrade kit

Hello,

I would suggest that you take a look at Craft Supplies USA:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com

They have a number of very high quality kits, including the Jr. Statesman and the Emporer. Both kits are fairly simple to turn. I have used a number of kits from Penn State, and the quality of their kits does not match up to Craft Supplies kits. You will need to order the bushings and probably the drill bits to go along with the kit.

Good Luck, whatever you choose, I'm sure the president will be very pleased.

Dan Heine
 
I agree with going with Craft Supplies or maybe Beartoothwoods as well. Ernie at Bear Tooth sells Berea kits and has some fancy ones. Main thing I would do if I were you would be to get several extra tubes for the practice/oops factor. Then you aren't wasting kit parts. Also, make sure you get lots of Gym floor to use too :)

lr

p.s. When you are on a ladder and decide to get down off the roof do you "unclimb that ladder?"
 
Above all else, make sure you go with a good plating - platinum, rhodium, titanium gold, or black titanium. Chrome is also durable, but you said cost is not an issue. The other platings will wear off.

Jr Gent, Jr Statesman, Gent, Statesman, Jr Emperor, Emperor from CSU are all nice. El Grande, Churchill, Cambridge (with metal coupler), and the Baron from Berea are also nice. All of these are as easy to turn as a slimline.
 
The flooring is actually 2" thick. No problem with a 7/8" blank.
The wood is heart pine in blocks about 2"x4" long, laid end to end on a furring stip with dove tail groves. They certainly dont make it like that anymore. It was probably installed about 1920.

Thanks for all the comments so far. Its a big help!
 
Rangertrek said:
I have a few pieces of the old gym floor.
We want to make a upgrade fountain pen, from the gym floor wood, to give to the college president. I want to do this with an upgrade kit. Kit cost is not a problem (company paying :smile:).
Click to expand...

I would consider the Majestic Jr, Baron (smaller), Emperor, Sedona (Churchill). All of these have straight tubes, no tenons, and are easy to turn. Stick with a Titanium Gold or Chrome/Silver. You want a finish that will last. Use CA for the finish.

The oak will have a large open pore wood so you will want to fill the grain before finishing.

Make sure you get all the pieces you can.

Think Alumni Association, Athletic Alumni, Basket ball coaches, gym teachers. The list goes on and on!

Oh .... AND make sure you include a signed document that details where the wood came from. Provenance (source documentation) is everything!
If the document says the wood was under the home team basket; well, you'll have to fight them off!
 
A question I always ask is does/will the recipant use a fountain....They may be beutiful gifts but will it get used. Possibly consider a ball point kit that you can purchase a fountain nib for to convert.
 
I have made a few of the cheaper fountain pens. From the Woodcraft european to the El Grande. I have started making the Majastic (from Rockler) and have been very pleased with the pens I have made. It writes very smoothly and feels like a very solid pen. It is expensive at $54, but is the pen I reach for when I want to a pen to write with. There are only 4 main parts that you have to assemble plus the nib. You will also just want to turn a straight profile since the pen is already massive. It is made from Rodium and Black Titanium so the plating is durable.

It might also be advisable to include some info on Fountain pen use and care. Finding the ink for fountain pens can be a challenge as well.
 
Rangertrek said:
The flooring is actually 2" thick. No problem with a 7/8" blank.
The wood is heart pine in blocks about 2"x4" long, laid end to end on a furring stip with dove tail groves. They certainly dont make it like that anymore. It was probably installed about 1920.

Thanks for all the comments so far. Its a big help!
Click to expand...

One of the services I offer is what I call "Heritage Pens". I will make pens for customers from wood that has special meaning for them. Part of the old homestead, a favorite tree, a ship, etc.
I have found that often this old wood is very dry and can be weak and crumbly. You might consider having yours stabilized before turning. If there is plenty of wood, you can experiment. Unfortunately, I don't have that luxury.
 
I love the Majestic kits from PSI , they are on sale and are a very classy looking pen . It's one of the only pens from PSI that I trust the platings on . I have sold quite a few and they have all held up very well . I use a 22k/rhodium Majestic jr as an everyday pen and after almost a year it still looks as good as the day I made it .
 
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