Recomend a good mandrel

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stevers

stevers

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Hi All,
I need your help. I am in need of a new mandrel. After researching the subject a little, I have decided I want to go with this type.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=950-9002
After reading the article from Russ Faifeild on repairing a bent mad rel, I have decided this is the way for me to go. I don't feel the adjustable type is necessary for me.
I just need to know what you folks use and or like. Is the CSUSA model worth the extra $10 over the Woodcraft model. Does anyone else (woodturningz, Berea, AS etc) sell a good mandrel?
The one I have is bent at the threads (tail end) and I don't know if it came that way or I did something to it. I felt a slight wobble and after reading Russ's article, I started checking and found the bend. The mandrel is from Woodcraft.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3759
I now have the lathe to do some real accurate work (JML1014VSI). So I would like to find a good mandrel, I have the 60 degree LC already.
Any opinions and advice will be appreciated.
 
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I had a simular problem with the WoodCraft mandrel too, I upgraded to the "pro" version and have been happy with the results, the "pro" version is an adjustable one and is far better than the other one in my experence.
 
I recommend to get a precision mandrel, to be had for either A or B style from Berea. They can be held with the drill drivers they sell as well (I believe the price for a driver and a mandrel is about the same or even less than the CSUSA mandrel) or in a Beall chuck. This is the most precise way of holding your blanks.
 
I held off getting the Beall collet chuck because of the cost...good thing LOML got it for me for Christmas. My only regret is not getting it much sooner.
 
I agree on the Beall chuck. I have had the Woodcraft pro mandrel and found that it wasn't as accurate as the Beall. I guess what is really confusing is how accurate the Beall can be on the outside threads when a MT collet using the exact same mandrel isn't as accurate. I can only assume it's because the Beall is threaded in and the MT is just basically pushed into position.
 
Steve,
I have had a pretty good experience with CSU's mandrel. I had some issues with Berea's B mandrel. I would have out of round issues at the headstock end, not at the tailstock end. It wasn't really severe, but on a kit like the EG's cap, for example. there is very little material left for error. It seemed to be less severe if I unscrewed the rod a few turns, so I'm assuming the machining of those threads was just a little off.
I went to the Beall collet chuck as a soloution to this and to open up other possibilities. I am very happy with my Beall setup, but realize it's a pretty expensive route compared to a standard mandrel, and for many really not needed. It took me several years of quality turning on a standard mandrel before I felt ready to spring for the cost of the Beall, and during that time they did a pretty decent job for me.
Another option you might look at is:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1747&category=
You could use this and it's 5/16 sister to hold both the A and B sized mandrels. You would need to use a drawbar through the headstock, but that's easily made from stock in the bolt/screws aisle at any big box store. This doesn't give you all the flexibility of the beall, but should give you all or most of the accuracy.
 
Does any one else have experiance with the MT2 collet chuck that Bill is refering to? It seems it would have the same issues as the adjustable mandrel using the MT attachment, vs the beal which uses the threads, unless it is machining quality that makes the difference. It does seam to be an affordable option if it works well.
 
The Beall collet and home made mandrels, IMHO, are the way to go. A mandrel can be made in about 10 minutes with simple tools to the length you want. I have short lengths for Sierras and very long ones for quickly roughing up a gang of brass tubes.
 
I went ahead and ordered the Berea precision mandrel, #2MT with "A" shaft. I will do some more research later and decide if I want to go with a collet chuck or not. Also, now if I want to go with a Berea kit, I am on the way.(I know, the shafts probly fit other mandrels.) Lot of money for the amount of improvement. Time will tell. A collet chuck or other chuck system will be handy for other things I am not ready for yet. Would be nice to be able to drill on the lathe.
http://www.bereahardwoods.com/new/tooling/tooling.cfm#3
The lower one, not the drill model.
 
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