realistic cost to get started casting

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sorcerertd

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Sep 30, 2019
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I've been wanting to try my hand at casting. It looks like a pretty big initial investment, especially with so many different pigments and powders to get a decent variety. With prices on everything on the rise, can anyone give me a realistic list of minimum supplies I need and a ballpark estimate what it would cost to get started? I'd definitely like to do some hybrids. Would they have different requirements than a solid pour?
 
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MRDucks2

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I small high quality pressure pot will last you forever without issues. I bought mine used from another woodturner so not sure on price.
I also bought a larger pot like the blue ones they now sell for casting. In all honesty, I use both them about equally.
At this point you are at about $400 but you can do similar with one pot for less, presuming you already have at least a small air compressor with a tank.
As far as pigments, dyes, colors, micas, etc. just buy what you can afford and think you will use to get started. Then buy as you need or when they are on sale. You will be buying stuff to color resin for a long time unless you really like mixing your own.
I would get a starter set of powder micas and a starter set of Alumilite liquid pigments. I am guessing there goes another $200.
You can really use a wide variety of materials for molds at a low cost. I have a variety of silicon molds, which are easy to use, but they do need maintenance and do wear out. I have bought HDPE molds and made my own. More durable, more expensive, not quite as easy to use but not bad but they also get to a point over a longer time that the quality drops off. Been making more using materials on hand and a hot glue gun lately. Low cost, single use.
Cups to mix in are cheap by the hundred from Sam's, wife uses pill type cups that are cheap by the thousand. I stir with popsicle sticks because I almost always use urethane under pressure. Wife uses anything not wood because she feels wood introduces more bubbles in her epoxy with no pressure.
For resins, if you plan to do a lot of embedded object stuff, poly and epoxy resins tend to work better with Poly being somewhat cheaper than epoxy.
For hybrids I have used epoxy and urethane with no real issues using urethane. Stray bubbles here or there can be an issue with embedded objects and urethane, at least for me but I haven't done a ton.
You can go cheap or you can go all out, but I think you can get a good middle of the road start on $600-$700 budget not counting a compressor or the resin itself. You will spend that much over the next couple of years expanding colors, methods and ideas
 

SteveJ

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Jul 11, 2012
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Grand Junction, Colorado
"a good middle of the road start on $600-$700 budget not counting a compressor or the resin itself."

And that's why I haven't gotten into casting!
 

sorcerertd

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Sep 30, 2019
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"a good middle of the road start on $600-$700 budget not counting a compressor or the resin itself."

And that's why I haven't gotten into casting!
This is where I am with it right now. I'll jump in one of these days, but was hoping somebody might have some suggestions for a little less. I also don't want to get caught up spending more in the long run because I bought cheap stuff that doesn't work well enough or stuff I didn't need to start with. I do have a compressor. I also have a Harbor Freight coupon for 25% off anything, no exceptions. Haven't bought anything in a while and they apparently want me to come back in and spend some money.
 

JohnU

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Jan 31, 2008
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Ottawa, Illinois
With that coupon you can build a 2.5 gallon tank for about $100. The rest depends on what you want to cast. For embedded objects You can build a large block mold with hdpe and screws or buy one for around $40-$50. The same mold would work for color casts. You can also pick up mixing cups and plastic bowls for molds at the dollar store but the molds may waste more resin when not specific to blank sizes. Tube on or label casts I would suggest a vertical rack. You can cast more at one time and conserve resin, which keeps going up in price. Then there's resin. PR will run you around $50-$60 per gallon while urethane (alumilite clear or clear slow) will be around $80 per gallon. Epoxy can be a little more depending on the brands but I don't use it so I can't give you a better answer. The rest comes down to the type of casting…. Colorants (dyes/micas), mold release, labels for tube on casts, nitrile gloves, stir sticks and an electric drill for mixing. Casting will usually cost you more as you go because you'll see something else you want to try and resin never lasts as long as you hoped. Good luck!
 

target64

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Jul 5, 2014
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140
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Indianapolis
Do a lot of research before you start, and I mean a lot. Read, watch and decide what road you want to travel down. The rabbit hole is long and deep.
1) Decide on the type of resin you want to use.
2) Does it need weighted or measured.
3) Does it need a pressure pot or not
4) Can you buy a small amount or is it a 2 gallon kit.
5) Where do you plan to cast
6) Will you need safety equipment
7) Type of blank will it be pen, bowl, urn or?
So the answer might be $40 bucks to a $1000.
Good luck, have fun
 

gimpy

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Danville, Pa
What do you mean


MRDucks2
Member
JoinedJul 17, 2017
Messages2,922
LocationWashington, IN
What do you mean by I small high quality

Thanks

I small high quality pressure pot will last you forever without issues. I bought mine used from another woodturner so not sure on price.
I also bought a larger


I small high quality pressure pot will last you forever without issues. I bought mine used from another woodturner so not sure on price.
I also bought a larger pot like the blue ones they now sell for casting. In all honesty, I use both them about equally.
At this point you are at about $400 but you can do similar with one pot for less, presuming you already have at least a small air compressor with a tank.
As far as pigments, dyes, colors, micas, etc. just buy what you can afford and think you will use to get started. Then buy as you need or when they are on sale. You will be buying stuff to color resin for a long time unless you really like mixing your own.
I would get a starter set of powder micas and a starter set of Alumilite liquid pigments. I am guessing there goes another $200.
You can really use a wide variety of materials for molds at a low cost. I have a variety of silicon molds, which are easy to use, but they do need maintenance and do wear out. I have bought HDPE molds and made my own. More durable, more expensive, not quite as easy to use but not bad but they also get to a point over a longer time that the quality drops off. Been making more using materials on hand and a hot glue gun lately. Low cost, single use.
Cups to mix in are cheap by the hundred from Sam's, wife uses pill type cups that are cheap by the thousand. I stir with popsicle sticks because I almost always use urethane under pressure. Wife uses anything not wood because she feels wood introduces more bubbles in her epoxy with no pressure.
For resins, if you plan to do a lot of embedded object stuff, poly and epoxy resins tend to work better with Poly being somewhat cheaper than epoxy.
For hybrids I have used epoxy and urethane with no real issues using urethane. Stray bubbles here or there can be an issue with embedded objects and urethane, at least for me but I haven't done a ton.
You can go cheap or you can go all out, but I think you can get a good middle of the road start on $600-$700 budget not counting a compressor or the resin itself. You will spend that much over the next couple of years expanding colors, methods and ideas
 

MRDucks2

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Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Messages
3,239
Location
Bristow, IN
Brinks seems to be the most common. Heavy lid, heavy lid clamps well attached to the body of the pot. Typically rates for 90psi and able to hold 50-60 easily.

The lid to pressure pot and the lid clamps are the wear areas. The more robust the two areas are, the more safe the pot will be for the long haul.

A lower quality pot can certainly be used, especially if you don't cast much, but attention should be paid to the lid wear, deformity and clamp condition.
 
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