Questions for Micro-mesh users

[jrich7970]

So, do you folks:

a) wipe your blanks clean or use DNA or something else between grits?
b) stop the lathe and use the pad horizontally in the direction of the grain?

Both, neither?

I realize that it's just polishing at this point. I have been doing both, but not sure if it's helping or not.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[jttheclockman]

Always wipe between grit with clean viva paper towels. ( this seems to become a problem because they seem to no longer make the smooth type, original. Now has a pattern in it. Why can't they just leave things alone. )Always sand direction of grain after stopping lathe. Always go through all grits of MM. Always use water when using MM. Always put polish on as last step.

 

[jrich7970]

Always wipe between grit with clean viva paper towels. ( this seems to become a problem because they seem to no longer make the smooth type, original. Now has a pattern in it. Why can't they just leave things alone. )Always sand direction of grain after stopping lathe. Always go through all grits of MM. Always put polish on as last step.

Exactly what I did (except I used cloth instead of Viva)...

 

[carlmorrell]

Exactly what I did (except I used cloth instead of Viva)...

Exactly same except i use Bounty!

Sometimes I put my buffing wheels on, instead of the final polish, for a little extra pop. I always have magnifiers on (Opti Visor), and when I get to 15,000 and see scratches, I get mad at myself for being hasty, this is usually when I get the wheels out.

 

[Lucky2]

Yes, wipe between grits, and sand length ways with the grain also between grits. i never did have much luck using white paper towels, so, I now use the blue paper towels. I have much better luck/results, since I started using them.

Len

 

[crunch]

I assume (yeah yeah) you are talking about a resin or CA finish. Unless your customer has access to an electron microscope It really doesn't matter.
My technique:
320 W/D (wet) does the bulk of the cutting down of the tool marks or ripples in the CA. Change the bath,
400,600 W/D brings it to smooth, Change the bath
800,1000 W/D just finishing things up. Change the bath.
1500-12000 it's a straight run.
I polish with Meguiar's PLASTX
Yeah, wipe it down between grits if you want. The slurry can make things a bit longer if you don't. Sanding from Tool or CA finish shouldn't take you more than 10 min, otherwise sharpen your tools and use a non patterned PT to wipe on the CA.
And yeah..about the VIVA... what is their prob? I switched to Scott "Rags" , non textured.
There are too many techniques out there for any one to be.....perfect. Go with what works best for you. Burn up some resin blanks to try diff things is the best I can tell you. Good luck.

 

[DrD]

Everybody has their one way of doing things that works for them and that's wonderful.

I talked with a MM employee recently and we went thru the MM to sandpaper (ANSI grit) equivalences posted on their web site. I only use MM with CA finished or acrylic/plastics. All my pens get sanded up through 1000 grit (ANSI) automotive wet/dry paper (higher if MM is not being used). Talking to her, she pointed out that their first 3 MM grits are all coarser than 1000 grit paper, so I now following 1000 paper with MM3200 and go thru MM12000. I do all sanding with the lathe off and sand longwise from bushing to bushing, and a lighted headband with a 10x magnified is worn when sanding. Between grits the blank is thoroughly wiped with the appropriate solvent, most usually DNA. A grit is repeated if scratch marks are observed after the solvent wipe-down. All sanding is wet: walnut oil used on most woods, water on CA finishes and plastics. CA is applied with Blue Shop Rags - non textured - and don't be frugal.

So in answer to your questions a) yes and b) yes. I'm sure you will find others with different replies.

Good turning, DrD

 

[leehljp]

Wipe between sanding? I wipe with a paper towel or cloth, but not excessive or in an obsessive manner, just wipe.

Stop the lathe and sand horizontally? For Me: Never in the direction of the grain. There are many that have expressed it as a necessity but my finishes stand up to using a loupe/magnifier and cannot see the "round" sanding scratches. If "round" scratches can't be seen with a magnifier, then the horizontal sanding is just wasteful time.

If I am using 600 or less grit sandpaper on flat work, I WILL sand in the direction of the grain; once I get to 4000-6000 MM grit, or 1000 sandpaper grit, the direction of sanding rarely can be seen unless it is used with excessive pressure, OR a micro viewing lens (loupe) is used to "find" a cross grain scratch. But not on mine. I don't use excessive pressure. I let the sandpaper or MM do the sanding, not with extra hand pressure, but rather light touch pressure. (Yes, I know, that is highly subjective.)

 

[jttheclockman]

Wipe between sanding? I wipe with a paper towel or cloth, but not excessive or in an obsessive manner, just wipe.

Stop the lathe and sand horizontally? For Me: Never in the direction of the grain. There are many that have expressed it as a necessity but my finishes stand up to using a loupe/magnifier and cannot see the "round" sanding scratches. If "round" scratches can't be seen with a magnifier, then the horizontal sanding is just wasteful time.

If I am using 600 or less grit sandpaper on flat work, I WILL sand in the direction of the grain; once I get to 4000-6000 MM grit, or 1000 sandpaper grit, the direction of sanding rarely can be seen unless it is used with excessive pressure, OR a micro viewing lens (loupe) is used to "find" a cross grain scratch. But not on mine. I don't use excessive pressure.

I always thought that too Hank but have changed my view on sanding bushing to bushing. I have now done a few satin blanks with CA and any of the MM will leave circles. I really noticed it on these blanks. I have gone to the back and forth method and seems to at least fool the eye. I have said this before if you have to take a magnifier out to see swirl marks you need better glasses. How many people at shows carry a loop around with them. The very first time they use the pen it will get scratches much worse than swirl marks. CA is not a hard shell finish as most think it is.

Agreed many ways to get to the final product in what we do and that is good. Just choose what works for you and stick with it and become proficient with it. i have been doing the same exact things finish wise since the day I started making pens . I tried the buffing thing and found it smears more than polish. Need to worry about heat build up too when polishing on a wheel. Good luck and happy turning.

 

[EricRN]

Exactly what I did (except I used cloth instead of Viva)...

This is my approach too.

 

[jrich7970]

Exactly same except i use Bounty!

Sometimes I put my buffing wheels on, instead of the final polish, for a little extra pop. I always have magnifiers on (Opti Visor), and when I get to 15,000 and see scratches, I get mad at myself for being hasty, this is usually when I get the wheels out.

Yes, I have also beeb using a magnifying glass between a) each coat of CA and b) each grit of micro-mesh. I'm still a newbie, but, while it takes longer, I think it's worth it.

 

[egnald]

Like many, I Micromesh wet at about 800 RPM for around 10 seconds, then Lathe off and Micromesh along the length for one rotation by hand, and wipe off the excess water/slurry between grits with paper towel. Finally, I usually do a quick buff on a loose flannel wheel, but I doubt that it is really necessary. - Dave

 

[howsitwork]

To answer the original question yes and yes . I always sand at low rpm then stop the blank and sand along the grain. To speed it up I sometimes wipe down with fresh towelling after sanding withnlathe running then use next grit along grain unti" I have removed all scratches from previous grit. Then next grit with later running .

With MM I use wet towel between each grit to remove slurry , and wash the MM too! Have only tried polishing compounds, as recommended on this site for last year or so and it does make a marginal difference I feel.

As John and Hank say gently does it and do what works for you but don't be afraid to experiment to improve .

 

[Dehn0045]

Sometimes I wipe after a really bad catch, but rarely do I get that scared while finishing a pen

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

 

[JoeCallahan]

All my pens get sanded up through 1000 grit (ANSI) automotive wet/dry paper (higher if MM is not being used). Talking to her, she pointed out that their first 3 MM grits are all coarser than 1000 grit paper, so I now following 1000 paper with MM3200 and go thru MM12000

I never even realized that! But it makes perfect sense. I'll have to start doing what you do from now on. Thanks!