question on production drilling

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triw51

triw51

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Feb 14, 2012
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407 East Cottonwood Drive, Cottonwood AZ
How do you keep drill bits cool when doing a lot of drilling? I was drilling about 50 blanks (new drill bit) and after about 10 - 15 I could feel the blanks getting warm. I drill on my lathe backing out about every 3/4 inch, the wood is mulberry. Is there a secret to keeping the bit cool?
 
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If you are drilling on the lathe, it is quick and simple to have 3 Jacobs drill chucks loaded with the same bit. When the first bit gets hot, pop out the entire chuck, and replace it with another. When you have finished with the 3rd chuck, go back to #1, dip the bit in water and repeat the process.

Additionally, I use PAM or WD40 on the bits. Not so much as a lubricant, but because these oils produce smoke at low temps. At the first puff of smoke, I change chucks.
 
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Personnally I use at least two drill bits for one barrel pens like Sierra, Long Click... If I drill two barrels kits, like Jr Gents, El Grande..., I successively drill the upper and lower barrels and meanwhile the drill bits are allowed to ccol.
 
As I found out the hard way. Two drills bits are required. I used wd40 or just plain old H2O. Make sure you wd40 first on all of your exposed metal.I have a spray pump handy with water in it.
 
Agreeing with Alan - I use either Pam or WD40 on the bit and then keep a spray bottle of a high concentration of dish washing liquid and water. Be careful using a rag or towel, if it grabs bad things happen, I use a paper towel (it simply tears). Every 1/2" or so I back the bit out, spray with soapy water and apply the wet paper towel to dissipate heat. Then spray the bit and the hole with soapy water and go a gain. Most of all take your time don't rush it.
 
I drill on the drill press, and keep backing out to clear the chips. I back out ever 1/4" or around that, maybe even less.when the hole is deeper.

The friction of the chips building up in the hole, and not clearing is your worst heat enemy.

Thats why I don't use my lathe, it's slower to back the bit out and clear the chips, so people do not clear as oftin as should be done.

I know I know there is no need to bring up the lathe vs DP war. A good DP set up right will drill as straight or in some settings even straighter then a lathe. Plus it's quicker, try drilling 100 plus blanks on a lathe, then do it on the DP. :biggrin:
 
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I also use a drill press and use pen making bits with large spiral groves.The larger groves remove chips better with less backing out.I also use a cheap air blaster and water,since the glue is water activated it works out good.
 
All these different lubricants are going to leave a residue in the hole. So, before trying to glue in the tubes, you should clean the hole, especially if you are planning to "reverse paint".

Just a FWIW!!
 
I use compressed air, I have an air hose within reach of every tool in my shop, real handy. Another upside is no residue or moisture that will rust your lathe in a heartbeat.
 
A few of us got into this discussion at our latest pen club meeting. One of the members said that he brushes alcohol on his drill bit. If the alcohol immediately turns to steam (as alcohol boils at 140 degrees) you know you are in the danger zone for potentially melting a blank. The evaporation process also helps to cool the bit. Depending on what happens, he can either apply more alcohol, or stop and allow the bit to cool. I am anxious to try this myself.
 
Sharpen the bits and change them often. I have 3-5 of every bit I do production runs with, and I sharpen all of them before starting. I usually get 25-50 holes drilled before changing bits.
 
The heat is due to chip build up as mentioned and the drill bit dulling. I have used a colt 5 drill bit on 25 acrylic blanks (full length) at one time and the drill is touchable temp right after, however the chips coming out actually melt when I get about 4 inches into the blank so I back out every 2 inches no more frequently. This bit has drilled 100 items so far and shows no signs of dulling so I recommend it highly.

If you really want to cool your drill put an air tube with a restricted opening blowing compressed air over your drill on your drill press. If you take the moisture trap off of your airline there will be enough moisture inthe compressed air to cool your drill bit. Just remember the real heat is at the cutting edge not the rest of the bit.
 
I tend to back out the bit more often than 3/4" When the bit gets hot, I start to glue up the blanks I have already drilled, or switch the hot bit for a cool one. I get bored easily, so switching activities helps me.
 
Some new drill bits are sharper than others -- and some new drill bits are downright dull. Like some of those sold in the local hardware stores.

Some drill presses, let alone drill bits do not cut concentric and these build a lot more heat.

I, for one, am very reluctant to drill wood (mulberry) with water , WD40 or similar coolants (many of the alcohols have a significant amount of water in them).

Very sharp high quality bits - frequent cleaning, and as they dull a bit with every use, an occasional touchup of the edge. Drilling at slower speeds is often successful at decreasing heat.

Some days you just have to go slower
 
:wink::wink: In my antique tool colection I have a, for lack of a better word, drill block chuck that holds 3 drill bits at the same time. It mounts to any drill press and locks in so it won't spin around. Not only can you drill 3 holes at once, you can drill 3 different size holes at different depths. I beleive it was used to drill holes for chair spindles. I have never seen another one like it. On the show "hows it made" on the Discovery Channel I have seen multy bit machines used for mass production use. Once a jig is set up to hold the pieces in place your off and running. Jim S
 
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