Putting holes in veneer spacers for tube on builds

[jjjaworski]

I was wondering how segment's drill holes in veneer spaces when building a blank on the tube. I wanted to try this method of building to get smithy when adding end caps to a segmented central section.

I have seen one method in a segmenting video where a brass tube is used in a drill press. The inside of the tube is shaped to get a knife edge at the end of the tube so it cuts cleanly.

Any other methods that I might try before botching up too much veneer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim

 

[magpens]

I think most people who use veneer would first design and assemble/glue the whole blank and then do the drilling.

This has advantages over drilling individual pieces and then assembling the drilled pieces.

Not clear to me what you are trying to accomplish by drilling the pieces before assembling/gluing on the tube.
Unless you are still developing/testing the design before you commit to a final assembly.

 

[mark james]

If you are thinking of drilling a hole in the veneers (.017" - .022") e.g., Sauer; I use a sacrificial board above and below the strip. Thin plywood, pine etc. I do this on my drill press. About 80% successful.

Another better way, is to glue the veneer onto whatever piece is convenient, the still use the sacrificial boards, but it make a very nice clean cut.

The second photo is a glued up multi veneer strip about 1" wide x 5" long x 14" thick. I drilled the hole for the tube on the drill press. The third photo shows a similar finished pen.

 

[jjjaworski]

Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate the input.

I was just trying to avoid glueing up the segmented blank and then mis-cutting it and having one end cap longer then the other.

I am working on a chevron sandwiched center section and capping the ends with the same material I used to sandwich the chevon between.

I was thinking if I glued the center section on a tube and turned equal distances from both ends it would be easier to get symmetry by adding the veneer and and end cap.

For this first attempt I may just glue up the whole assembly , drill and trim before glue-up.

I have several in the works so I can experiment some.

 

[mark james]

Here are some better clips. If these are to be end caps, the wider wood sections can be whatever thickness you have, you will just trim it down to the tube anyway.

Note: I actually prefer to use pen blanks that have the end grain on the ends. Cut slices, glue the veneers to them, then drill the hole. This way, there is no mismatch of side grain, end grain on the final endcap. In the last photo, I show this.

I hope this isn't too muddled.

 

[mark james]

Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate the input.

I was just trying to avoid glueing up the segmented blank and then mis-cutting it and having one end cap longer then the other.

I am working on a chevron sandwiched center section and capping the ends with the same material I used to sandwich the chevon between.

I was thinking if I glued the center section on a tube and turned equal distances from both ends it would be easier to get symmetry by adding the veneer and and end cap.

For this first attempt I may just glue up the whole assembly , drill and trim before glue-up.

I have several in the works so I can experiment some.

You are totally correct. I actually try not to do a 'build and drill' blank. However, if you have the blank rounded first, you can use a collet to drill the hole more accurately.

Have fun!

 

[jjjaworski]

Thanks Mark. This makes more sense since putting a hole in one piece of veneer would be stressful and success rate kind of low.

I also like the black-white-black ring. I was just going with one piece of black veneer. Might look a little barren for the transition.

I do have collet chucks so I will give that a go.

This segmenting is like a disease.... chuckle.

 

[peter1958]

I was wondering how segment's drill holes in veneer spaces when building a blank on the tube. I wanted to try this method of building to get smithy when adding end caps to a segmented central section.

I have seen one method in a segmenting video where a brass tube is used in a drill press. The inside of the tube is shaped to get a knife edge at the end of the tube so it cuts cleanly.

Any other methods that I might try before botching up too much veneer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim

I also drill veneer but very different. I use a pen tube of the same diameter as i'm putting in the pen.
What i do is a tube, lets say 2 inches long, any diameter you need. Then i turn a little plug of half inch lenght that fits snug in the tube.
That end goes in the drillpress. A reamer or a 60 degree bit is gently turned in the other end so the tube gets a sharp edge.
There is the veneerdrill!!
When the tube is full, drill a litlle hole in the plug. then you can remove the little rounds from the tube..

Works very well. Did that with these two pens

 

[jjjaworski]

I also drill veneer but very different. I use a pen tube of the same diameter as i'm putting in the pen.
What i do is a tube, lets say 2 inches long, any diameter you need. Then i turn a little plug of half inch lenght that fits snug in the tube.
That end goes in the drillpress. A reamer or a 60 degree bit is gently turned in the other end so the tube gets a sharp edge.
There is the veneerdrill!!
When the tube is full, drill a litlle hole in the plug. then you can remove the little rounds from the tube..

Works very well.

Thank you. This is the method I saw on a you tube video.

 

[peter1958]

Thank you. This is the method I saw on a you tube video.

uploaded a picture of the pens i did this method

 

[jttheclockman]

So let me confuse things even more for you. Mal segmenting by building on the tube is the BEST way to do a segmented pen for accuracy if your design supports this. What that means is basically you are using rings only. No matter what it is pickguard , aluminum or what ever. Trim rings built alone and then added to tube is still a ring. As for drilling holes I do several different ways. Many times I will always start with square pieces. I stack if need be and build a so called jig to hold them. All this is a block that is wider than pieces and center cut out to accept the pieces I am drilling so a square within a square. Sacrificial piece on top of stack and find center and then at drill press drill hole needed through all pieces. Even it is one piece same deal.

Now another way I do mine is round a blank perfectly symmetrical and then if I am doing any segmenting lengthwise on this blank I do it on my lathe with router. Then drill for proper tube size. Now I can do one of two things. Part the size pieces off or take the blank and cut slices on the tablesaw. I have done both ways. There is no one way to do this. But the key ingredients are that the hole is 90 degrees to the ring and the ring is equal thickness throughout. If ring is not it will show when building. If hole for tube is sloppy it will have a chance to lean and cause entire blank to lean if not glued straight up and down. Now I will not go into building blank and then drilling in this thread because that is not what you asked. I will include a photo of what I talked about.

 

[jjjaworski]

I see where accurate cut parts will work out for the build on a tube method. The plus side is all the mating parts will be attached with plenty of glue ( epoxy ) to avoid any blowout when turning. Much easier to compress the whole shebang for good adhesion.

I am not near this kind of assembly yet but as a former wood patternmaker admire the thought process and care in making the parts.

 

[leehljp]

I too do as Mark said above. I use 1/2" plywood above and below, and screw the top board to the bottom. If I were using delicate wood laminate, I think I would use thin double sided tape to keep it from twisting. But I usually do brass, aluminum or copper.

Blank construction

30 Pieces of Silver blank construction layout pict

www.penturners.org

 

[jjjaworski]

Got things ready today for the glue up. We will see how it turns out. I appreciate all the input I got. Thank you .