PSI "HSS Tenon Tool" (Stock LCTEN)

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oneleggimp

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:confused:I have hesitated to ask on the theory that it is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool than to open it and remove all doubt":confused: I got one of these HSS Tenon Tools from PSI for Christmas. It doesn't seem to have any "edge" on it as received from PSI (Amazon actually). Here's my dumb questions:
1. How does one sharpen it? The only angle apparent on it is from the "bottom" (or is it the top? - that's confusing to) to the other long surface.
2. How does one use it? If you consider that the longer surface is the cutting surface (top),then you'd have to have the tool rest set back quite a bit in order to support the tool on the bottom surface behind the bevel.

Sorry to be so obtuse but I had a teacher once upon a time who said the only dumb question is the one not asked.

Any help would be appreciated


Ernie
 
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Thanks for the reply. I've seen Cap'n Eddies YouTube video on sharpening his hand made cut off (parting ) tool. but I really haven't been able to see how he presents the tool to the wheel in that video. His back is to the camera for the most part when he's actually grinding it and unlike some of his videos there is no close-up of the action. I've played it multiple times. Also his tool seems to be the opposite with the long edge up rather than the short edge up which is what you say I should do with the PSI tool. I DO know how to use a conventional parting tool but this is a horse of a different color. Again many thanks for your reply.
 
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I presume you mean this one.

This is a thin parting tool. Referring to the drawing, the shorter edge serves as a bevel, so you use it by rubbing that bevel against the wood, with the point at the end of the tool doing the cutting. Like any other tool, rub the bevel, and then raise the handle to start the cut.

I sharpen mine with a diamond hone. I first use the hone to polish the upper edge of the end of the tool, and then polish the bevel by dragging the end along the hone so as to raise a burr on the very tip.

As you cut into a spindle, the sides of the tool will rub on the edges of the cut. The friction can cause burning which can cause tars to form on the sides of the tool. Occasionally, I will use a ScotchBrite pad to remove that tar buildup, but I never hone the sides of the tool - I don't want to tinker with the thickness.

The best way to avoid that burning problem is to cut into the wood a bit, and then start a second cut just to one side of the first cut, so that the total width of the groove you are cutting is wider than the tool itself. If you can keep the sides of the tool from rubbing, you can avoid the burning.
 

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Penn State sells a three parting tool kit but think a single square or diamond parting tool a better op for cutting tenons, parting, or cutting to a certain depth.

Diamond parting tool
Benjamins Best 3/4 in. x 3/16 in. HSS Parting Tool at Penn State Industries

Square parting tool
Benjamins Best 1/8 in. HSS Pen Turning Parting Tool at Penn State Industries

I have four parting tools a skinny one like being talked about here; a square parting tool, diamond parting tool, and a Bedan. Started out with just a diamond parting tool and the only one had for many years.

Description says for only for very delicate work pretty accurate, disagree with cutting tenons for center bands.
Benjamins Best HSS Lathe Tenoning Tool at Penn State Industries
 
I have that diamond parting tool. At first I did not like it but now I love it. It does very well on tenons but when I used it to clean up the bottom of a bowl it made spirals on the bowl. I used it on the second bowl but was able to get the spirals cleaned up with the new scraper I got Fay
 
I discovered this one at CSUSA
http://p/130/2187/Henry-Taylor-Kryo-Narrow-Parting-Tool?term=parting tool

As well as this one:
Robert Sorby Narrow Parting Tool
Part# 161-0016

Or this one:
Crown Narrow Parting Tool
Part# 407-1032

Design seems more popular than I first thought. The question still is how it's sharpened.

Maybe sharpen the long side on a slight angle and use it with the short side up??





Fay Prozora said:
I have this tool and I don't like it at all. I can't get a nice tendon cut with the thing so there it sits. Maybe I'm not using it right. Fay
Click to expand...
 
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Do not see a need for Exotic steel for a simple parting tool, HSS will serve you well. Either a HSS diamond or square parting or both tools for turning tenons or parting off wood will serve you well. Do not own any BB tools from PSI but think they are okay.

Thin parting tools kind of special use tool not really needed every day so something less than $20 will work well. Memebrs here and on other boards have made a homemade version of a thin parting tool. While not for me they work as well as store bought.

Bought KYRO ½" skew six or seven years ago and about ready for replacement. Never saw wear resistance claimed. It has not lasted longer than fifteen year old HT HSS ½" skew it replaced.

Only time use a parting tool on a bowl is when reverse turning using a jam chuck and tailstock support and parting off waste. Normally just sand off the nib left off the lathe.
 
Ernie ---

I use the thin parting tool a lot. I have 3 of them. One angled right, one angled left and one square across. I turn from a stool and the short handles are easy to use from a sitting position.

All three are ground similar to what Louis showed. A turner who lives in Spain, a Britisher named Chris Stott, made them popular. Use the lower short flat as a bevel and cut near the top rather than scrape at centerline to decrease tearout.

The right and left versions are to undercut bottoms.


Turn some mushrooms for practice. Then turn some tenons on Euro style pens.
 
Wildman said:
Ken are those the only parting tools you own?
Click to expand...


I went and counted -- I have accumulated 7 different parting tools in the buckets ranging from diamond to straight sided 1/8 inch and 3/16 inch and a Kelton blade that came with the bowl coring gear. I also have a "Starett Parting Tool" (High tension hack saw with starrett bi-metallic blade).

Key for me is the handle length. I have bad leg/ankle joints and turn from a stool sitting. Short handles make a difference. Ernie has a similar challenge.

Long handles are harder to use -- and the short thin blades do the trick on pens and small items. When I need to part with depth -- I go for one of the bigger longer ones.

Why fight a big tool when I do not need to do so. -- and it hurts more.
 
My only problem with thin parting tools is PSI the hype and turning tenons! Just not my first choice for that task. You have me beat only have four different parting tools.

I have a short handle 3/8" spindle gouge for getting into tight places so appreciate short handle tools!

Thanks for sharing!
 
Wildman said:
My only problem with thin parting tools is PSI the hype and turning tenons! Just not my first choice for that task. You have me beat only have four different parting tools.

I have a short handle 3/8" spindle gouge for getting into tight places so appreciate short handle tools!

Thanks for sharing!
Click to expand...


For pens and mushrooms -- there are lots of choices that work -

I should note that I like the flat sided parting/tenon tools and use a hone on the sides so that side edges are sharp. Leaves a cleaner surface. Similar to honing the edges on a skew so the tips are sharp pointed.
 
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