Protecting metal, but not powder coating

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thewishman

thewishman

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Mar 9, 2006
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Reynoldsburg, Ohio, USA.
Got myself in a bind with an order. The first attempt didn't pan out.

I have a steel pen, all powder coated but a small engraved section. I need to protect that section but I'm out of time and $$ to do another powder coat. The metal on the rest of the pen has an irregular surface making it almost impossible to perfectly mask.

What clear product would you use to protect that part from rust/corrosion. It's a flat milled spot about .25" x 1.5" . CA won't work, it would wick around beyond the milled spot.
 
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I have been impressed by the polymer auto finish potectorants the last few months.

Rejex by Corrosion X is what I have been using. Try it straight, but I would put it over brushable lacquer.
 
This was my answer in a previous thread asking for protective metal top coat products:

I recommend that you check out Protecta by Everbrite (ProtectaClear.com). I am not affiliated with the company, but have used and like their product. It is easy to use, requires no special equipment, and they offer a product line for a wide range of metal appearance and protection.

I have recently use this to modify the finish on the hardware to match other metal parts on a pen. The product is good, and does what they claim. (As I stated: I do not have any financial interest in the company.) So if there is time to get and use the product, you will likely be pleased with the results now and long term. It is a bit expensive, but boasts a long term shelf life. Maybe this is the answer you seek?

Whatever you do, please try to not rush the work, or settle for in inadequate solution just to "get it out the door", as that often yields unsatisfactory results. You really want to do the job just one time. :biggrin:
 
I'm guessing that if you don't have time for powder coating, then you won't have time for a proper finish.
Most finishes would have to be ordered.
Depending on usage, a lacquer may suffice, but I would prefer to use something intended for the purpose. Powder coat or catalyzed clear coat would be my choices. Powder coat is much faster to apply and is ready to use as soon as it's cool enough to touch. Clear coats can take up to three months (sometimes longer) to fully cure.
In any case, the surface must be very clean and dry before applying a topcoat or moisture can get trapped below the surface and cause problems.
 
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Thanks, guys. It is an order for a 10,000 member organization and their president will be presenting the pens. These four have to be right, but they also have to be right now. My process broke down when my main and backup metal lathes broke down.
 
I love the Rejex. In fact, if you wait 12 hours between coats the protection will build. I do that with my autos (sometimes 3 coats). Just be careful when removing whatever you "waxed" from the lathe. The barrel becomes so slick, I can't grab it.
 
The issue with polymer products, such as Rejex, is it isn't a permanent topcoat and needs maintenance, i.e. re-applied, just as a car would require.
Frequent handling will remove a film finish quickly. These type of products are meant to replace waxes, which wear off easily also.
 
A sculptor at my makerspace just loaned me some Permalac. He uses it for outside metal sculptures. I'm checking into the Rejex and Everbrite as topcoats.

My wife stopped wondering why I spend so many hours on (at?) the IAP, this is one more reason why.
 
Obviously, you spend so much time here because we don't live close enough for you to just come visit and pick our brains, neighbor! :)
 
Exactly. The IAP is like family, but you don't have to talk to the relatives you don't want to talk to, and you can go home anytime you want without hurting anyone's feelings.
 
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