Proper Fit

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montmill

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Jan 26, 2008
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13528 Old Hwy. G Montfort, Wisconsin
When I look at photo's of pens it looks like some are flush with the hardware and some are a little under. I've appreciated the conversation about turning between centers and wonder if you ever measure the hardware and choose not to have a flush fit? Sure hope the question makes sense.
 
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Yes a touch over. Buffing puts a slight radius on the edge that makes for a smooth transition between the blank and fittings to both the eye and the fingernail. At least that is how I do it.
 
I think if you get into selling your works of art and maybe you already do but when you start commanding high$$$ then you should pay close attention to fit and finish. I mentioned this many times for other things that come up such as shapes of pens, look at the big name pens and use them as examples of what sells and what people expect to see. You will see all blanks and parts match up and their shapes are not bulbous or fat. The finishes are spot on. Yes we make handmade items but we too can develop good techniques to get us on the same playing field as those big name pen companies. Or at least that is my goal whenever I make a pen. Good luck.
 
I agree with Curly . . . .

Start with your blanks turned a little oversize ( about 5 or 6 thou ... measured carefully with reliable calipers ).

And after sanding and finishing ( and buffing ) the sizing comes down a little closer to the hardware measurement.

It is always better to have a very slight oversize.

In my opinion, there is nothing worse than an undesize ( even slightly is ugly ).
 
The times that I do not make it flush is when there is a decorative band with raised/lowered designs of various thicknesses. I usually make the blank to be the larger size and then round-over the end. But where there is a smooth band or nib end or clip end, I measure to the precise size.

If it is for general public or for friends sales, "close" can be OK, but for the high end priced pens, precision is your friend and those buyers willing to pay the higher prices will notice. As for me, it usually doesn't take more than 5 minutes extra at most to bring a blank the precision fit, so I shoot for this on all my pens as a matter of habit.
 
I intentionally under-turn to hardware (slightly "proud" of H/W) and turn a small radius which presents the illusion on meeting the h/w.

I am not recommending this technique; it is just the way I prefer to turn pens.

I use TBC bushings.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm by no means a pro and don't sell many pens but I do enjoy making them and learning. I would like to make them as precise as I can. I've attached a photo of a Tiny Giant Pen from Turners Warehouse and it looks to me like the hardware is proud of the body. The bushings would indicate that's the way it's meant to be. Would you go ahead and make them flush or a little proud or make them according to the bushings? Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly but this seems to be the case to me. Tiny Giant.jpg
 
Wood especially (but other materials too) moves (swells and shrinks) with changes in temperature and humidity. What is flush with pen hardware today will not be flush as the seasons (and weather) change. Therefore, I think that seeking perfect fit is an exercise in futility.

I generally aim for a blank that is 0.002-0.003" proud of the mating hardware when assembled; and I round over the edge slightly when sanding. That leaves a joint that most people do not feel even when the blank expands or contracts.

In practice, that means I turn and sand a few thousandths shy so that my finish builds back up to slightly proud of the pen components.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 
David, a couple things. It is often said here by myself and many others, bushings are just a guide. You will better be served if you get a good set of digital calipers and work off them. Measure the components and then measure the bushings and you will see they never match up. They will get you close but the measurement you aim for is the components. Again not all kits even if they are the same brand may not measure the same due to more or less plating when manufactured. When using a top coat finish such as CA you need to be able to judge how much past those parts measurements you need to build up layers to because you will sand away some. This comes with practice. You will get there it is not hard.

Now the other thing. You showed a photo of a pen kit that has an exception built into it. This is the rounded pieces of the kit where the blank mates to them. If this is your pen you did fine and it looks great. What you do not want to do is build the blank out to match the high points of the rounded parts. Your measurement will be the lowest point of that rounded piece just like you did. The parts are accent pieces that are designed to stand proud. To back this up look at the nib section and the different transition pieces. The round rings stand proud of the flat surfaces.

As others said a little prouder on the blank with a slight rounded edge will look better than a over turned blank where the components are taller than the blank. Good luck.
 
montmill said:
Thanks for the replies. I'm by no means a pro and don't sell many pens but I do enjoy making them and learning. I would like to make them as precise as I can. I've attached a photo of a Tiny Giant Pen from Turners Warehouse and it looks to me like the hardware is proud of the body. The bushings would indicate that's the way it's meant to be. Would you go ahead and make them flush or a little proud or make them according to the bushings? Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly but this seems to be the case to me. View attachment 317437
Click to expand...
This pen looks like it was turned "correctly". The radius on beaded hardware is supposed to be proud of the turned material. That is at least how the designer of the kit intended it. That doesn't mean that one likes it that way.
When turning a pen with such hardware, I turn slight proud of the busing diameter (barely enough to grab a thin fingernail). I should have clarified that. I own calipers but, not as skilled (and definitely not as patient) as others when it comes to using them. I really can't say I was ever disappointed with bushings. I am either lucky or sloppy! :)
 
I try to finish near as dam it but sometimes go for oversize if it feels better .

Undersize looks and feels wrong , to me anyway and hey that's who decides what's finished and what's a practice pen , 👍
 
Something to keep in mind down the road with some experience under the belt - IF it is overturned, it can be built back up to normal diameter with extra layers of CA. There is a couple of techniques that allow that, with more ease, than the most common method of applying CA.
 
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