Problem with Wenge

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tcastel

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Joined
Jun 15, 2006
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Location
Jefferson, MA, USA.
I did my first pen with Wenge this weekend and need some advice. When I started turning the blank I noticed there wer what looked like checks in the blank running lengthwise. They were short and only run for about a 1/2" but are scattered all over the blank. I turned the blank to almost size and filled the checks using dust covered sandpaper and thin CA. Turned to finish size, DNA and CA finish. The finish came out good but the checks have small white areas in them, not the full length of each check just small spots. The finish doesn't look cloudy just spots in the checks. Any ideas on what I did wrong?
 
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Wenge is pretty open-grained and can be a pain. Try (next time) using compressed air rather than DNA to get all the dust off. Then, use a couple of sealer coats of thin CA. This should fill all the open grain with CA, and give the blank a bit more depth to the final finish. Also, sometimes DNA will absorb some water, giving it less of a cleaning effect. Then finish as usual.

FWIW,
 
Have you used a wax top coat to your CA finish? Some times, the open grains Cav mentioned will act as little buckets, grabbing and holding the wax and not allowing it to be properly distributed.
 
Never used wenge yet so can't comment other than that it is supposed to be pretty but very difficult.

Not a wood of choice for first pen...you just got your "baptism of fire" [:D][;)][}:)]
 
Wenge is one of my favorite woods, I think it makes a great looking pen even if you have a plain piece. the grain is a pain though and your experience is common. Blackwood is a bear to get sanding marks out of. some woods just take more TLC than others.
I use the CA method mentioned above to keep the light marks out of the grain but my ver first wenga pen is still mine cause of them.
 
Actually not my first pen just the first in Wenge. I didn't blow it out before using the thin CA and maybe that was my problem. I haven't made up my mind whether I like the wod it not. Not the easiest to work with. Thanx for the tips.
 
First wenge blank I picked up EXPLODED when I tried to cut it on the mitre saw. No idea why. Flying fragments all over the shop, none bigger than the size of my fingernail. Oddly enough I have not felt inspired to touch the stuff again. Plenty of other NICE wood out there!

cheers Eileen [8D]
 
The only problem I have with Wenge is that the diffrence in grain harness makes sanding a bit difficult. Rather like Pine, the darker grain is considerably harder than the light and often results in a ridgy (high and low spots) feel. This is particularly true when starting with grits more coarse than about 320.
 
Originally posted by emackrell
<br />First wenge blank I picked up EXPLODED when I tried to cut it on the mitre saw. No idea why. Flying fragments all over the shop, none bigger than the size of my fingernail. Oddly enough I have not felt inspired to touch the stuff again. Plenty of other NICE wood out there!

cheers Eileen [8D]

In light of your place of employment and the current policies regarding all communications being public, please be careful!!!

Perhaps the phrase, "a coincidental fragmentation of the exotic hardwood" might be preferable.

We don't want to lose you to a residence in Cuba until they get around to questioning HOW an explosion occurred!!!![:(][:(][:(]
 
What type of blade was on the miter saw Ellie?
Some blades make more of an aggressive cut than others.
AS much as I use all my saws, table, scroll, bandsaw, and even hand saws a miter saw is my last choice to use to cut blanks(O.K. second last the handsaw comes in last)
 
If you have any hairline checks in the wood, the source *may* have been from the drilling. Drilling wenge can generate a good bit of heat since it's so hard, and wenge doesn't like heat.

I have a few wenge blanks to drill and turn soon, so I'll be playing the same game soon.

Matt
 
No clue what type of blade was on the mitre saw Eagle, apparently an anti-Wenge type of blade. I was trying to be clever and cut the blank in 45 degree chunks to make a segmented pen with some other kind of light colored wood, when the -- ahem -- coincidental hardwood fragmentation (or CHF) occurred. I agree, I would normally use a bandsaw, but I wanted the precise angle. Or I thought I did. The wenge obviously had other ideas. It won.

As for residences in Cuba, Ed, I can see it now... "Watch out! He's got a wenge blank!" [;)]

cheers Eileen[8D]
 
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