preserving/cutting logs for blanks

[cyclop5]

Not sure what exactly I'm asking, but...

We cut down a couple trees in my yard (boo!) so I have an abundance of wood. Specifically logs. Anywhere between 4" and about 18" in diameter. If I wanted to turn these into blanks (for pens or whatever), any clue what I need to do? Do I seal the ends of the logs? Or let them dry out? Trim off the bark? If it matters, red oak, maple, and (I think) ironwood. Admittedly, they're not "exciting" woods, but I have intentions of making gifts for my neighbors from the wood for sentimental reasons.
I tried to search here, but my search-fu failed. Thanks for any advice (even if it's "go seek out woodworkers' forums and leave us alone!")

 

[Edgar]

Sealing the ends wil help prevent cracking as the wood dries. I use leftover paint for the job. Store the logs on pallets or blocks of wood to prevent contact with the ground & promote air circulation. Give them 1 to 4 years of drying time.

 

[MRDucks2]

As Edgar sai da, sealing the ends goes a long way to giving you more wood to work with to reduce cracks and checking. I have not had his success with old paint either because the paint may have been too old or I picked the wrong color. I tried pink and even with 2 coats it didn't build up thick enough to prevent the logs from cracking.

I then made a log sealer from a combination of paraffin, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits that works great. The concoction ends up being cheaper that the store bought version of the same thing (anchor seal) and I like the end result better.

However, a gallon of Titebond III can be found for about the same price as the homemade sealer and also works very well. Before making my own sealer, old Titebond III was my go to log end sealer. A single coat goes on easy and works great.

 

[Todd in PA]

ANCHORSEAL Classic Log & Lumber End Sealer - Water Based Wax Emulsion, Prevents up to 90% of End Checking on Cut Ends of Hardwood & Softwood … (1 Gallon) https://a.co/d/cnABoJi

 

[cyclop5]

So, anchorseal (or equivalent) the ends, raise it off the ground, and let it sit for a couple years to dry. I presume I leave the bark on? That seems fairly easy. Except for the patience part.


Thanks everyone. I'll go that route.

 

[1080Wayne]

Removing the bark will speed up the drying process quite a bit and reduce end checking . However , it also minimizes the chance of spalting , which you may want to encourage on a few pieces , by leaving them on the ground for a year or two . The best way to monitor weight loss is by weighing , but that isn`t practical on long large diameter logs .

 

[montmill]

Our woodturning club buys Anchorseal in 50 gal drums, then resells to members for a nominal charge. Maybe there's a club in the area that does that. If you have several trees you may end up needing a lot. Maybe you know someone that's a member? I've gotten some for friends. Chicago area has several turning clubs.