Jgrden
Member
Can you clear powder coat over a dry decal on a brass bullet???
Please and thank you.
Please and thank you.
Powder Coating
- Thread starter Jgrden
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jttheclockman
Member
Good question!!! I look forward to seeing some answers. My concern would be the heat. Then again the next concern the more I think about it is you need metal for the powder to stick to. The decal would have no charge.
Now what if you used the other type powdercoating that does not require an electrical charge??? The wheels are turning. :biggrin:
Now what if you used the other type powdercoating that does not require an electrical charge??? The wheels are turning. :biggrin:
bkersten
Member
Not sure, but it seems like something would give since the temp for melting and curing the powder coating is high. I've never used PC but
it may shrivel the decal some.
it may shrivel the decal some.
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
I would doubt it as most powders require 300*-400* F to cure.
ribanett
Member
Didn't work for me, one big mess. The plastic melted and the adhesive turned brown
Fat Boy
Member
No, don't waste your time, we have a powder coating line at the shop that runs 24/7 and we are always trying new things with it. we can not even get commercial grade adhesives to hold up to the heat so i am sure that a decal would either burn up or peel off. our drier oven runs 450 and the cure oven runs at 350. but the casings sure do hold up nice with the clear coating on them. Stick with the CA style for decals, thats the best i have found so far.
Jgrden
Member
Chris, sounds like the powder coat is first, then the decal, heat to 150 for 15 min to dry and then hot CA for an over coat to protect the decal. Sound reasonable? Thanks for sharing your experience. I appreciate it.
John
Jgrden
Member
Texasbeachbum
Member
This decal paper is made for the heat.
http://www.papilio.com/laser bake on water slide decal paper.html
http://www.papilio.com/laser bake on water slide decal paper.html
titan2
Member
Fibonacci
Member
No, but the instructions call for 345 for 15 min, plus a cracked oven cooloff.
I think that just might work with powdercoating temps. I usually go to 400 for flow-out then reduce to 325 for cure, but I have hove done 350 for the whole process with good results.
The biggest problem in my mind would be getting the powder to adhere before heating, but you could get around that by doing a hotcoat on the decal area.
Another option is to just do a reverse toner transfer onto the brass and powdercoat over that. That would avoid the danger of having the edge of the decal be visible.