Powder Coating

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RKing

RKing

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Apr 16, 2007
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Cornwall Ontario /Ocala, Florida, USA.
I just got some castings and would like to finish them and from what I have read here one has to powercoat them Is there any other way that would not require me to make another investment, I have been buying a lot lately and have not yet made a good looking pen so I must make a nice one now before investing more Canadian Dollars. Any help would be appreciated. I am kisted as Florida but in fact only there during the winter too cold here so I go South.
Thanks
Bob
 
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I'm assuming that you are talking about "casings", and not "castings". And the answer is yes, there are indeed other ways rather than powdercoating. Granted, powdercoating is more durable, but you can polish your cases with Simichrome, brasso, or one of many other possible polishes, then make absolutely CERTAIN that you've wiped them perfectly clean with a very soft lint-free cloth. If you have a compressor, it might also be a good idea to blow them off JUST before you coat them. To coat, use a GOOD QUALITY clear spray lacquer, or acrylic. If Krylon has clear, that would be a good bet. I think that Deft has a clear spray, that would be good also. You'll want to put on at least 3 coats, sanding LIGHTLY between coats, just enough to give the next coat something to bite onto, and of course, be scrupulous in between-coat dust removal. Good luck!
 
You can find a high quality rattle can clear at most Wal-Mart, at least around here. House of Kolor, the cutom paint king released a while back some various candies and base coat 3 stage systems. The clear they have will fit the bill. Small cans and about $7-$9.
 
I used Deft spray on a casing pen as a test of the durability. I used three coats and let it cure for a week before assembly. I won't use it again. It may be okay if the pen is always carried in a pouch, sleeve, or maybe even a shirt pocket. But many men carry their pens in their pants pocket so that's how I tested it. The lacquer became marred and chipped in less than a week.
 
Originally posted by alamocdc
<br />I The lacquer became marred and chipped in less than a week.
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A true lacquer does not harden completely and thus will mar and scratch easily. The solvents do not completely escape and will reactivate with heat. In the old days of custom car painting, the fastest way to reestablish a shine was to simply buff the lacquer. This in effect heated the paint up and allowed the solvents to melt the clear so it would flow back out.
 
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