Plastic Bender

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Fangar

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Wilton, CA, USA.
Hey Guys,

I have had quite a few requests for the simple acrylic pen photo stands that I have made in the past. I am kinda particular about what I will send out as a product to others, and was just not happy with the consistency of some of the bends while using a torch (Or other flamed heat supply). So I drew up some plans from one of the many evil images meandering aimlessly within my head. I came up with a design that has been tested and works prefectly. A simple result, but a necessary one to make them up to my standards. I have mentioned at times, that I often enjoy making the jigs more than the items themselves. Anyway...

A Halogen light (8.99 on sale) heats the plastic to a nice bending temp in about 15-20 seconds. The 1" sqaure stock has cool water flowing through it which keeps the plastic on either side of the heated bend site cold. This allows for a very precise bend line. Only a trickle is needed to keep the steel cool. This does not leak one drop of water anywhere near the electrical components. The clear liquid like substance that might been seen in photos is epoxy (Use to connect the steel tubing to the MDF base).

Total cost was around 20 dollars.

Ok ok... the photos:

2006527793_plasticbender1.jpg

Bottom hose is the water intake. Black hose is the crossover, and the top hose is the water output.

20065277956_plasticbender2.jpg


200652771013_plasticbender3.jpg


Cheers,

Fangar
 
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M

Mudder

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Ingenious!

Nothing more needs to be said; simply ingenious!
 

Fangar

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Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />Very ingenius. The water and electricity thing is troublesome to me. But you say they are not in close proximity. Can we see some of your stands, please? [:p]

Frank,

I thought this through quite a bit and there are several sfeguards in place that address this. First off, the welds do not leak a drop. If they did, I too might be concerned. Next, all of the wiring is mounted into a routed slot in the bottom of the base. The (3) 12guage wires (Hot, Through and Ground) only pop through the base plate at the bulb assembly connection points. All electrical components at the switch housing and bulb socket are sealed with hot glue making them waterproof. The water inlet line, which is connected to a garden hose is placed low to the ground (Below the table) during operation to pump water up to the inlet. This creates a low drip point if it were to occur. The water outlet is 8 feet long and gets dropped out my garage door into a flower bed. Finally and most inportantly of all, the whole circuit is on a GFCI. Any short and it kicks instantly.

As for the stands, I hope to get some time in the near future to get them together for others.

Cheers,

Fangar
 

woodmarc

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Jan 29, 2006
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North Tonawanda, NY, USA.
Fangar
In high school we made a Plexiglas bending jigs by using the heating element from old space heaters. We bent sheet metal that would be used as the holder and as a heat reflector. Looking at it from end on the shape resembled the omega symbol. On each end we used ceramic discs to hold the elements. We made several of these, each with a different aperture for different radius bends and for different thicknesses of Plexiglas.
Something I remember from high school. Overheating the Plexiglas, especially on thicker pieces and then over flexing, will introduce air bubbles into the bend.
just another variation on a theme.
 

Daniel

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Reno, NV, USA.
Frank,
GFCI, Ground Fault Curcuit Interuptor. basically it can tell when to much juice is flowing (like when your being electrocuted)and breaks the electrical connection. the outlets you see in bathrooms with the little reset button is a GFCI.
 

Rifleman1776

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Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
Originally posted by Daniel
<br />Frank,
GFCI, Ground Fault Curcuit Interuptor. basically it can tell when to much juice is flowing (like when your being electrocuted)and breaks the electrical connection. the outlets you see in bathrooms with the little reset button is a GFCI.

Daniel, as much as I appreciate the information. Please don't take me too seriously. Even though my knowledge of things electrical is so limited I need two Boy Scounts to help me change flashlight batteries, I was able to deduce that the 'CI' part probably meant 'circuit interruptor'. Our buddy, Fangar, ain't an idjit and if something like the GFCI (boy, I dislike acronymneese) didn't exist he would invent one.
 
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Location
Washoe Valley, NV, USA.
Not to be picky but the Electrical Engineer in me has to speak up.

A fuse/circuit breaker blows/trips when a current above a certain limit occurs (typically a high number like 10 A). This one is important for protecting equipment.

A GFCI trips when a difference in current is sensed between the hot and the neutral legs (typically a low number like a few mA). This one is import for protecting humans, cats, dogs and whatever else you have running around your shop.

These are two very different things that I would be happy to explain in a long detailed post . . . [xx(]

Ok, maybe not.

Todd
 
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