Pens Plus/GluBoost Questions

[montmill]

It's humid here in Wisconsin now so have used Pen's Plus for the first time instead of GluBoost. I'm following the technique basically demonstrated on the Pen's Plus website video. I wonder if I should let the finished blank cure overnight like I do with Gluboost before assembling the pen? I was careful too to not touch the finished blank with my hands, rather used a paper towel to remove it from the lathe and put it on the drying rack. Is this overkill? Do you ever buff with Ren. Wax or anything after Pen's Plus and if so, do you wait a day or so before doing it?

I'm also feeling that older GluBoost becomes more plasticky as it gets older. I wonder if any others find that? I think in the past I've gotten new product and never have used an entire bottle. I'm not a production turner and give away most of the pens I make. (Those my wife doesn't take)

 

[egnald]

Whenever I use friction polishes, it is usually either O.B.'s Shine Juice or Doctor's Woodshop. For Pens Plus I usually add a final coat of their Microcrystal Finish Wax (DOC-110) right away, before I remove it from the lathe. After all, Pens Plus itself contains some of the same Cosmolloid 80H synthetic wax and the walnut oil it is in. Before assembly I usually let it rest/cure overnight or at least for a couple of hours if I am in a hurry. I don't know if it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.

Dave

PS I think the only difference between Doctor's Microcrystal wax and Renaissance Wax is the carrier. Ren uses mineral spirits where Doctor's uses walnut oil. I'm pretty sure that they are both essentially Cosmolloid 80H, but then again, I think Ren wax might also contain some polyethylene microcrystalline wax (BASF Luwax AM3 maybe) along with the Cosmolloid 80H. Cosmolloid 80H does not have polyethylene which is supposed to make it easier to clean or remove.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

I do not believe you have to worry about a cure time with Pens Plus because of the heat and friction finish that hardens it. I will usually do 3-4 coats of Pens Plus and then assemble the pen. Occasionally I will the Doctor's Microcrystal top coat and that is done before taking the pen off the lathe but I have found pens finished with Pens Plus typically do not need the extra protection. I used my first bottle of Pens Plus for 3+ years without issue, it didn't get tacky or sticky or change texture at all. This polish can be used on a variety of other projects than pens as well. It can be extremely humid here in NC as well and the humidity hasn't been an issue.

I cannot speak to GluBoost as I have not used it. Other products I have used are tacky and sticky, just a mess on the fingers and in the shop. Pens Plus is really nice because it isn't oily or as messy as other brands. If the Pens Plus finish is tacky while the pen is on the lathe do another friction/heat polish on it to finish setting it because this product should not be tacky/sticky when applied properly. The heat generated from the friction hardens and sets the wax.

 

[cseymour]

I will echoed the sentiments above. I will finish my wooden pens with Pens Plus then a quick topcoat with the Walnut Oil Microcrystal Paste Wax DOC-105
I also typically wet sand with the Doctor's Walnut oil before the Pens Plus.
Just my $.02

Thank you

Chris