Pen mills ???

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I have been using a pen mill since and I am not planning on changing anytime soon. What kind of problem(s) did you encounter?

The way I do it is mount the tubed blank to the DP vise. Mill using the DP...simple and easy.

If you don't have the proper mill guide, just turn a "shim" using tubes 7mm blanks. These really works great! Just make sure your shims are concentric and turned properly...don't want any imperfections translated to your milling.

Improper milling can cause problems while turning. Remember all the talk about problems when you over tighten the mandrel and how it bows the mandrel? Most of it is because of improper milling. Dirty bushing can be a culprit too.
 
I use a pen mill and prefer it. I also have a disk sander on my belt sander. One thing that I do is place the blank in a vice and use a cordless drill driver. I haven't used the drill press and the blank centering jig but I am about to start. There are so many different size mandrels for squaring them up and I have 4 but that is still not enough.
 
I chuck my pen mill in a VS cordless drill and hold the blank in my hand. Using this method gives me very good control of the cutting process. It is improtant to keep the mill sharp!!
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />I chuck my pen mill in a VS cordless drill and hold the blank in my hand. Using this method gives me very good control of the cutting process. It is improtant to keep the mill sharp!!
Click to expand...

I've done this before but DP gives me much better control and better surface.

When blank is held manually and/or using hand drill...there are blanks that will resist cutting and tend to bounce up and down. The result (in my case) is less than ideal and not perfectly flat surface.
 
Originally posted by Dario
<br />I have been using a pen mill since and I am not planning on changing anytime soon. What kind of problem(s) did you encounter?

The way I do it is mount the tubed blank to the DP vise. Mill using the DP...simple and easy.

If you don't have the proper mill guide, just turn a "shim" using tubes 7mm blanks. These really works great! Just make sure your shims are concentric and turned properly...don't want any imperfections translated to your milling.

Never had a problem either way ! But imho the sander is faster and a LOT easier for me and its always square and I guess thats the point anyway long as you get it squared up anyway a work ,,[:D]

Improper milling can cause problems while turning. Remember all the talk about problems when you over tighten the mandrel and how it bows the mandrel? Most of it is because of improper milling. Dirty bushing can be a culprit too.
Click to expand...

I never had a problem either way ! I just prefer the sander long as its square and no problems ...
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />I chuck my pen mill in a VS cordless drill and hold the blank in my hand. Using this method gives me very good control of the cutting process. It is improtant to keep the mill sharp!!
Click to expand...

[:0][:0][:0]
Keep the mill sharp so it will gouge deep gashes into your hand while you are holding it. I can't believe the bad advise being given around here sometimes.
 
After squaring on the disk sander, I put the blank in a vice and use the pen mill for final squaring. That way I can put more muscle into the job than hand holding. I use a 'T' handle on the mill.
 
Originally posted by DFM
<br />
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />I chuck my pen mill in a VS cordless drill and hold the blank in my hand. Using this method gives me very good control of the cutting process. It is improtant to keep the mill sharp!!
Click to expand...

[:0][:0][:0]
Keep the mill sharp so it will gouge deep gashes into your hand while you are holding it. I can't believe the bad advise being given around here sometimes.
Click to expand...
I'm afraid I ditto the bad advise given by Randy, I hold my blanks in my hand, works fine. A sharp pen mill is prefered, as it cuts the wood and does not require the extra force and fight a dull one does.
 
Originally posted by Pipes
<br /> I never had a problem either way ! I just prefer the sander long as its square and no problems ...
Click to expand...

If it works, that is all that matters [;)].

I am sorry for assuming that you had problems with it. [B)]
 
Having once had a nasty and exceedlingly painful encounter with a rotating end mill many years ago, I do not care to take chances and hold something in my hand with a piece of rotating cutting equipment, especially just after I get them back from Paul and they're like flying razor blades.
 
Another one that holds them in my hand here. I have started using a glove... sometimes.

I've used a disk sander (without a jig) and the pen mill. I love the pen mill, but occasionaly I get these 'waves' in the blank. It's almost like 'harmony bumps' in a dirt road. Really bad with corncobs. The disk sander withoug a jig isnt worth using if you ask me.
 
Skye, at least use a pair of channel locks. You need to keep them hands for making them nice snake blanks.
 
Originally posted by Skye
<br />I love the pen mill, <b>but occasionaly I get these 'waves' in the blank. It's almost like 'harmony bumps' in a dirt road.</b>
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Exactly why I love using the DP [;)]...I used have those when I am doing it manually too but after switching to the DP, no more "waves".
 
I know like I have said befor Iam not the sharpest knife in the drawer ! But It just seems to me as long as your disk samder on your belt sander is square and you can tell when you just touch the brass it would safer easier and just plain simple ! But maybe Iam missing somthing ??[:(]






http://affordablepipes.com/
 
Pipes,

You have to get the ends square to the tube inside...not the blank walls (unless you always drill dead square). All it takes is a little angle and the ends may not fit properly or as I mentioned it can cause your mandrel to bend when you tighten the knob. [;)]
 
I have evolved to sanding close and finishing with high speed and/or cobalt steel. I do not put the steel in a mechanical device, but instead use a handle. Note that I seek to only mill off 0.010 or less with the steel. With sharp tooling, only a few twists of the hand are needed.

I had a pen mill from olde days (I think from PSI) that I had a hard time keeping sharp. I picked up some piloted counterbores cheap that would hold an edge and used them for quite some time. I recently ordered the pen mill and 7mm pilot from Bill at AZ Sil and have been pretty pleased. Sharp edges and easy use. I did have to use a diamond file to get the burrs off the mill and allow the shaft to fit. Tight tolerance that were a hair too tight.

I have sleeves made for most sizes with the counterbores that work with the pen mill. They are fast to make when needed. Using collets to hold the rough turned wood and testing with a tube (see the Rich K article on Woodturning Design for a picture) works really well for keeping snug fits. While it does take a few minutes to get a sleeve that fits well, they get misplaced before they wear out.



One cobalt steel counterbore is so sharp it is dangerous so I keep the sides wrapped in tape to keep the red stuff from leaking out of my fingers.
 
Originally posted by DFM
<br />Skye, at least use a pair of channel locks. You need to keep them hands for making them nice snake blanks.
Click to expand...

Lol, I may. The only 'incident' is pretty much healed over. Only part that hurt was the bone.

Dario, yeah, now that you mention it, doing it by hand probably does lend to that problem.
 
I was a hold-in-the-hand guy until the mill dug in a bit deep and caught in the blank...OUCH! Up to now I clamped the blank in a vice and use a battery drill. I am going to try the drill press/pen vice method.
 
Sears's "Robogrip" pliers with the rubber tip protectors work really well. I have made less than a dozen pens and my mill needed to be sharpened. It kept catching on a piece of chechen and I decided to try to sharpen the cutter and it worked like cutting butter. A fine file with out teath on the edges will let you do it while it is still on the bit.
 
I also hold the blank in my hand and chuck the mill in a cordless drill. I like this method for a number of reasons:
- The blank is not alway square (e.g., antler) which makes it difficult to mount in a vice on a drill press
- By using s variable speed drill, I can start and end the milling at slow speeds, which minimizes the chance of 'catches' at the start and helps prevent those waves and the end.
- It's also a lot easier to monitor how close to the tube I mill too

I've tried holding the blank in vice grips, but didn't feel like I had the same level of control by holding it in my hand. But the fact is, hand holding is not something I'd recommend to anyone else, it does have significant risks. I just chose to accept those risks. Besides, it's a good way for me to toughen up my sissy hands[:D]
 
May I say that I use both of the tools depending on the material being squared. The pen mill on most woods that are dense to fairly dense. Then I use the 6" side sander w/the squaring jig from PSI.This I use on unstabilized corn cobs, woods that appear to bust apart if I pen milled them, and "Dymondwood". Since I've started using the sander/jig I've lost not one dymondwood blank. Before it was hit or miss whether one was gonna' bust to pieces.

Anthony Welch
 
****I just hope everyone that grips their blanks by hand do not wear eye protection either -- why be safe around power tools?
 
I hold corncobs by hand with a cordless drill thanks to Skye works very good. On other materials I use the drill press and a pair of channel locks. I had trouble with drill press and vice on blanks that didn’t quite drill straight for the tube. The vice held the blank to solid. I hope that makes since.
Bob
 
Dang ... I hate to admit it ... but I also hold that blank in my hand while using the barrel trimmer. Everytime I do it I say to myself, "Hold the blank in the vise." But, I never listen to myself.
There are a lot of us dodging the bullet when we do this .. Skye and Loglugger included.
Let's do this ... the first one to drill their holding hand to shreds has to post a picture for the rest of us to see. That'll stop us. Plus, as a consolation prize, we'll send the guy with the bloody hand "Get Well Pen Blanks".
 
Originally posted by davidrei
<br />- The blank is not alway square (e.g., antler) which makes it difficult to mount in a vice on a drill press
Click to expand...

In DP vise method, you don't have to tighten the vise too much, just enough so the blank will not rotate. Remember that the guide post will take care of the centering.

The best part of doing it this way is the control you have on how much pressure you want to exert...try it and you will never go back [;)]
 
Originally posted by Dario
<br />
Originally posted by davidrei
<br />- The blank is not alway square (e.g., antler) which makes it difficult to mount in a vice on a drill press
Click to expand...

In DP vise method, you don't have to tighten the vise too much, just enough so the blank will not rotate. Remember that the guide post will take care of the centering.

The best part of doing it this way is the control you have on how much pressure you want to exert...try it and you will never go back [;)]
Click to expand...

Amen brother! I gave it a try and I am a converted believer! [^]
 
I also prefer the mills to be sure the ends are straight with the tube and not necessarily to the sides of the blank. I also use a DP and loose fit in a pen vise.

Did have a very embarassing problem once during a demo I was doing at our local AAW meeting. Glued in a tube using thick CA and thought it had time to dry while I was doing something else in the demo. I tried to use a pen mill in the DP and the brass tube must have had some CA in it. The tube instantly glued itself to the shaft on the mill and since it was clamped in the vise the tube just started spinning inside the blank. I quietly moved on to some already prepared blanks for the demo but I spent a bunch of time that afternoon trying to get that tube off the mill when I got home.
 
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