Pen mandrel?

[Mud401]

Merry Christmas everyone. So I'm new here but I been turning for a couple months now "mostly tops and bowls" but I want to start turning pens next. I know nothing about mandrels. Is there a one size fits all pens? Is there a universal one ? Also I noticed some for 15 bucks and some for way more. I'm not quite sure why?

 

[KenB259]

Oh oh, get ready for a hailstorm of opinions.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

 

[leehljp]

I haven't used a mandrel in over 10 years so I can't answer that. But I will offer you a link to a 10 year old thread from this forum that is still very helpful:

If I had known this earlier . .

I am on a fact finding mission. Can you help? What do you wish you had known earlier in pen turning? or in different words: Knowing what you know now - IF you could go back and start over in pen turning - what would you skip, change or do differently? answers for instance: - I wish...

www.penturners.org

At some points in there, TBC - Turning Between Centers (Not using a mandrel) is mentioned and that method is well used by many here. Mandrels work well for quiet a few, but there are problems for those unfamiliar with tracking down problems such as not concentric, wobble, oval. But if good at problem solving, and one likes to do both parts of a two part pen simultaneously, mandrels work well.

 

[TonyL]

If your budget allows, buy a mandrel that is compatible with the MT of your lathe and a mandrel saver. If you don't find yourself having any problems (after a number of pen styles and materials)- you are golden.

I turn with better results not using a mandrel, but that is just me. Many excellent turners use them (mandrels). I wish I could use a mandrel when turning double-barrel pens (but its is not for me).

 

[magpens]

Hello Jay !! . Welcome to IAP !!

I switched from using a mandrel to turning-between-centers (TBC) without any mandrel. . Fewer problems and better results.

I made the change 5 or so years ago ... have never looked back.

It may be good to start with a mandrel, but keep your mind open and if you start that way be prepared to switch to TBC.
There are two fairly common sized mandrels. . The most common by far has a diameter of just a hair under 1/4".
The required mandrel size is determined by the bushing hole size. . Each different pen kit usually requires a different sized set of bushings as measured by the outside diameter of the bushings. . The bushings go on the mandrel. . Most bushing sets use the ' 1/4" mandrel ' so that is definitely the one to get when you start. . I think it is called the " A-mandrel ". . The B-mandrel is a little thicker and is not very often required except by a very few pen kits which you may never want to make.

If you look in the " Resources " section of this forum you will find a couple of articles on " Turning Between Centers ". . Those are worth reading now.
You might decide to start with that method. . In doing that, you will save yourself the price of a different set of bushings for each pen kit, and you will also save yourself the cost of the mandrel. . Bushings typically cost about $6 for a set. .

The A-mandrel will cost you about $12-$15 for the most basic model, but you can pay more depending on the vendor and the optional features you want. . Be sure to ask a question here about the specific mandrel you are considering to find out if it is suitable for your needs.

Some mandrels have, at one end, a tapered steel section which screws off. . This tapered section is designed to fit the particular headstock of your lathe. . Some headstocks have a Number 1 Morse Taper ( MT-1 ) and some have a Number 2 Morse Taper ( MT-2 ). . Some lathes are designed to accept a 4-jaw chuck screwed on to the headstock spindle. . Some of those chucks can grip a 1/4" mandrel without you having to worry about the Morse Taper adapter on the end of the mandrel ; ... that would make your mandrel purchase as cheap as possible.

What this all means is that you have to know what your lathe requires, which varies from lathe to lathe.

 

[dogcatcher]

All of the above will work, but I want a little more info before I give advice. What kind of lathe do you have? Your experience level? Do you have any chucks, and if you do what kinds? Willing to spend money the first time or wanting to penny ante it?

 

[Mud401]

I haven't used a mandrel in over 10 years so I can't answer that. But I will offer you a link to a 10 year old thread from this forum that is still very helpful:

If I had known this earlier . .

I am on a fact finding mission. Can you help? What do you wish you had known earlier in pen turning? or in different words: Knowing what you know now - IF you could go back and start over in pen turning - what would you skip, change or do differently? answers for instance: - I wish...

www.penturners.org

At some points in there, TBC - Turning Between Centers (Not using a mandrel) is mentioned and that method is well used by many here. Mandrels work well for quiet a few, but there are problems for those unfamiliar with tracking down problems such as not concentric, wobble, oval. But if good at problem solving, and one likes to do both parts of a two part pen simultaneously, mandrels work well.

I read your thread from ten years ago and it's pretty awesome. I actually didn't know that pen turning could be done without a mandrel. I'm gonna have to figure out how.

 

[Mud401]

Hello Jay !! . Welcome to IAP !!

I switched from using a mandrel to turning-between-centers (TBC) without any mandrel. . Fewer problems and better results.

I made the change 5 or so years ago ... have never looked back.

It may be good to start with a mandrel, but keep your mind open and if you start that way be prepared to switch to TBC.
There are two fairly common sized mandrels. . The most common by far has a diameter of just a hair under 1/4".
The required mandrel size is determined by the bushing hole size. . Each different pen kit usually requires a different sized set of bushings as measured by the outside diameter of the bushings. . The bushings go on the mandrel. . Most bushing sets use the ' 1/4" mandrel ' so that is definitely the one to get when you start. . I think it is called the " A-mandrel ". . The B-mandrel is a little thicker and is not very often required except by a very few pen kits which you may never want to make.

If you look in the " Resources " section of this forum you will find a couple of articles on " Turning Between Centers ". . Those are worth reading now.
You might decide to start with that method. . In doing that, you will save yourself the price of a different set of bushings for each pen kit, and you will also save yourself the cost of the mandrel. . Bushings typically cost about $6 for a set. .

The A-mandrel will cost you about $12-$15 for the most basic model, but you can pay more depending on the vendor and the optional features you want. . Be sure to ask a question here about the specific mandrel you are considering to find out if it is suitable for your needs.

Some mandrels have, at one end, a tapered steel section which screws off. . This tapered section is designed to fit the particular headstock of your lathe. . Some headstocks have a Number 1 Morse Taper ( MT-1 ) and some have a Number 2 Morse Taper ( MT-2 ). . Some lathes are designed to accept a 4-jaw chuck screwed on to the headstock spindle. . Some of those chucks can grip a 1/4" mandrel without you having to worry about the Morse Taper adapter on the end of the mandrel ; ... that would make your mandrel purchase as cheap as possible.

What this all means is that you have to know what your lathe requires, which varies from lathe to lathe.

Thanks after finding out that a mandrel is not needed I'm gonna read up on turning between centers.

 

[Mud401]

All of the above will work, but I want a little more info before I give advice. What kind of lathe do you have? Your experience level? Do you have any chucks, and if you do what kinds? Willing to spend money the first time or wanting to penny ante it?

Just bought a rikon midi vs with a bed extension. I have a 60 degree live center as well as a stock center. I have a Nova g3 chuck with several jaws including pin jaws. I am a novice at best but learn guick. I'll spend the money if it saves me money in the long run. Thanks

 

[penicillin]

Related:
Does anyone have a good source of steel rod that matches the common mandrel diameter? I would like to make replacement mandrels using the steel rod and an existing "adjustable" mandrel. I use a mandrel saver, so there is no reason to add threads to the end for a knurled nut.

My goal is: If a mandrel seems bent, replace it with fresh, straight steel rod that is a perfect fit.

 

[howsitwork]

i'm interested in this too as the common size used over here ( UK ) is 6.2mm . i have tried cutting my own from 1/4 rod but it's rough n ready as i didn't have a rear travelling steady at the time. Works ok but commercial ones are smoother..

re the original query I made my own mandrel and mt taper etc but have since upgraded , as I enjoyed pen turning , to an ER 20 chuck with a 1/4" collett to grip the mandrel rod for perfect concentricity. With a revolving centre saver in the tailstock, not too expensive and gives you a vast range of holding possibilities in future.

 

[randyrls]

Related:
Does anyone have a good source of steel rod that matches the common mandrel diameter?

MSC has drill rod in many sizes. It is intended to be hardened, but sold in the annealed (soft) state so it can be hardened after cutting etc. I believe this is the common size (.246") (Letter size "D") for mandrel rods.

 

[John Eldeen]

You might try this
Steel Precision Shafts, 1566 Carbon Steel, 1/4" Diameter, 8" Long https://www.mcmaster.com/6061K101

 

[Paul in OKC]

As for mandrel making, letter 'D' drill rod. I turn more with a mandrel than without. If you decide to get one, there is one size (used to be two, not sure if the other is still available) and the bushings you use for each pen have a hole in them to fit the mandrel, and they fit the tube of the pen.

 

[its_virgil]

Related:
Does anyone have a good source of steel rod that matches the common mandrel diameter? I would like to make replacement mandrels using the steel rod and an existing "adjustable" mandrel. I use a mandrel saver, so there is no reason to add threads to the end for a knurled nut.

My goal is: If a mandrel seems bent, replace it with fresh, straight steel rod that is a perfect fit.

Letter D drill rod. Available from sources like McMaster Carr, Enco, or and other industrial suppliers. A piece 3 ft long will be under $10. Cut them to lengths corresponding to the kit requirements. Mandrel saver in the tail the tailstock.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[howsitwork]

Hmm

damn irritating, size D not available over here only metric and 6mm is too slack a fit unless I remake all my bushings. then again I need to check sizes for the new kits I just got in so....

i suppose at a push I could just use a number drill size D ( got lots of those for model engineering purposes) and with a centre saver in the tailstock voila problem solved as the drill just acts as a support, not as rigid as a rod though.

 

[MTViper]

I'm going to actually answer the question that was asked. If you're new to turning, I recommend this combo with a #2 Morse taper with a mandrel saver from PSI: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSMAN2.html

Once you get used to turning pens on a mandrel with bushings, you can decide if you want to continue or if you want to switch to TBC.

 

[Mud401]

I'm going to actually answer the question that was asked. If you're new to turning, I recommend this combo with a #2 Morse taper with a mandrel saver from PSI: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSMAN2.html

Once you get used to turning pens on a mandrel with bushings, you can decide if you want to continue or if you want to switch to TBC.

Thanks alot .

 

[WriteON]

I'm going to actually answer the question that was asked. If you're new to turning, I recommend this combo with a #2 Morse taper with a mandrel saver from PSI: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSMAN2.html

Once you get used to turning pens on a mandrel with bushings, you can decide if you want to continue or if you want to switch to TBC.

ditto...get started and go from there. TBC... it's loved or hated. I like the PSI set up MTV is showing... Can turn 2 small blanks at a time. I do use this sometimes but's not really a TBC https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMBCM2.html

 

[Dieseldoc]

Have switched from mandrel to TBC and like Mal never regretted it. How for what to do with those pen mandrel's, finally found good use, I use them for CA or other finishs. Don't have to worry about getting CA on my 60 degree dead and live drive centers. Also frees up the lathe for other work when I let CA cure over night before finish process. Clean up of Delrin cones are so easy, just soak the in acid tone, wipe off good to go.