Pen blank drilling jig

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Stephen

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Oct 20, 2007
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I did a search for the pen blank drilling jig and found the best to be from IAP member Paul. He has a long waiting list. I can't wait. My home made vice jig (not self centering) is OK for the normal wood blanks and forgiving if it is a wee bit out. Now that I am trying herringbone blanks I require a more accurate jig. I have seen a few like the ones from PSI but am not sure if they are good for my purpose. Would appreciate information from the experience of members and their recommendations.
I do all my drilling on my DP and have followed all the suggestions from this forum to ensure the DP is rigged accurately and my drill bits are new. In other words I have to best of my knowledge eliminated errors that might be introduced by the DP. I suspect my jig and think I could not improve it with my skills.
Many thanks for suggestions on a suitable jig available.
Stephen
 
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Stephen, why don't you try drilling on the lathe? I drill all my segmented blanks on the lathe. Mark the center point of the design on each end of the blank with a center punch. Mount the blank on the lathe using those center points. Turn the blank round. I turn my to 3/4" round. When I am getting close I hold a 3/4" wrench to the blank, when it drops over the blank is turned to size. Cut the blank for upper and lower barrels. Mount the blanks in a collet chuck. Drill with the center bit and then drill with the drill bit sized for the appropriate tube.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TM32.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42280

I got my center bit set from Enco, but their website is down at the moment so I could not give you that link.
 
I agree with the "drill on the lathe". I use a cheap PSI vise and it does OK where 100% accuracy is not a requirement. But when doing segments where 1/100 inch or greater accuracy is a necessity - drilling on the lathe does well consistently. The entry point is an absolute and the exit point is a given.

Place the chuck on the tail stock and the segmented blank in a lathe chuck. The blank rotates, not the bit.

One thing you did not mention is the kind of bits or sharpness of the bits. Both of these sometimes affect the accuracy.
 
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To center the blanks I will mount it on the lathe between centers, just enough to put the dents from the centers on the blank and ensure it's true. Then it's back to the DP for drilling.
 
Thanks everyone. It looks like the lathe will be the way to go. To answer Hank's question - I use HSS twist drills bits. What bits should I use?
Thanks
Stephen
 
Stephen said:
Thanks everyone. It looks like the lathe will be the way to go. To answer Hank's question - I use HSS twist drills bits. What bits should I use?
Thanks
Stephen
Click to expand...
Hi Stephen; my preference for twist drills are brad points, when available. It appears they don't come in the larger sizes, or at least I haven't been able to find them if they do.
 
Stephen said:
Thanks everyone. It looks like the lathe will be the way to go. To answer Hank's question - I use HSS twist drills bits. What bits should I use?
Thanks
Stephen
Click to expand...

Just checking to see if part of the problem would be cheap bits. But if you have HSS, that should not be the problem. HSS are fine! Some people do use brad points as Mack pointed out and they do cut down on the wandering. I personally haven't found brad points vs non-brad points to be an issue when using the lathe though.
 
mackc said:
Hi Stephen; my preference for twist drills are brad points, when available. It appears they don't come in the larger sizes, or at least I haven't been able to find them if they do.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mack,
With all the inputs on this topic I will go for the brad point bits on the lathe.
Thanks again everyone. I love this forum and the suggestions and guidance that makes it a great forum.
Stephen
 
Hank,

How do you advance the bit through the blank?

leehljp said:
I agree with the "drill on the lathe". I use a cheap PSI vise and it does OK where 100% accuracy is not a requirement. But when doing segments where 1/100 inch or greater accuracy is a necessity - drilling on the lathe does well consistently. The entry point is an absolute and the exit point is a given.

Place the chuck on the tail stock and the segmented blank in a lathe chuck. The blank rotates, not the bit.

One thing you did not mention is the kind of bits or sharpness of the bits. Both of these sometimes affect the accuracy.
Click to expand...
 
I have a source for brad point bits. Even in the over half inch sizes and all the metric sizes needed for pen turning. the problem is getting enough interest in them to meet the min order. If anyone has an interest in brad point bits of any size let me know i can give a buy a go and see what happens. This same source has parabolic bits which I consider an even better choice. CSUSA Colt 5 star bit is nothing but a Parabolic bit with a modified chisel edge. if you have not seen the Colt 5 star you can see it here.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/New_Products___Colt_5_Star_Pen_Drill___colt_pen_bits?Args=
there is a video demoing it. and although I agree with the chip clearing of the parabolic bit i think the video is making a joke of drilling times. If I can get something to take a video with I will show you what I mean.
 
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Another suggestion:

Try drilling in multiple passes. Start with an 1/8" bit. Drill through. Move up to a 1/4" bit and ream/enlarge the hole. Keep moving up until you get the size hole you need.
 
I have found large brad points from Dewalt at Osh Hardware and from Woodcraft. They are made by Colt and keep a sharp edge. I think that CSUSA is now selling them also.
 
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