On the uses of Delrin ...

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Kaspar

Kaspar

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Ahead of the curve. Waaay ahead.
I understand some of you make Delrin bushings for turning because CA will not stick to them?

I am thinking I need to use flat pieces of Delrin for quick clamping when gluing composite blanks with CA.

Thoughts?
 
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You could also use UHMW polyethylene which I think is easier to come by. Look for a cheap white cutting board and its probably made out of UHMW-PE. Also most plastics suppliers will carry it. I bought some locally in Dallas to make table saw inserts. The local source was much cheaper than mail order when you take shipping into account.

Wendell
 
Thanks, both of you.

I just discovered that I have some, and didn't even realize what it was. I got it from Grizzly (local source :D ) to make a thin, strong base for a rip taper jig. And, no, CA cannot stick to it. Perfect.
 
I once bought a bunch of delrin "offcuts" from a plastics manufacturer. Since then, I've used it for table saw runners, bushings, spacers, press blocks, PR molds and plugs, and as a gluing table. It's nice to lay out and clamp segmented blanks on 4 or 6 sides when gluing.

Regards,
Eric
 
OK, so why can I drill a hole in a block of wood, insert the delrin rod, use thick CA and come back in the morning with the delrin firmly glued to the block of wood???

This was a test I was trying before using the delrin as a dowel to assemble the puzzle pen. Test failed (IMO)

Do I need to wax the delrin first???
 
Ed, I've had CA "stick" to delrin, but I use that term loosely. Anytime I've applied any pressure at all to the piece, the delrin comes free (which is what I was hoping for actually). So, "by firmly", I'm assuming that you have somewhat aggressively tried to remove it?
 
I succeeded in removing it.

My HF punch kit, to the rescue!!! BUT, if I had to hit the "puzzle pen" (yes, I HAVE made one, so I have a pretty good idea what it will take to break it) like that, it will be small pieces.

4 GOOD raps and the delrin came out, with dried CA on it, tried to peel it off, UH-UH (that's a no).

Back to "Should I wax it???"
 
If there are any "deformities" in the delrin and any pores or voids in the wood, thick CA will form a hardened "mold" thus causing the rod to be "captured" rather than acutally glued. Don't believe me? Put a little CA on a piece of delrin and hit it with accelerator. The CA will then scrape off with a fingernail.
 
Originally posted by ed4copies

OK, so why can I drill a hole in a block of wood, insert the delrin rod, use thick CA and come back in the morning with the delrin firmly glued to the block of wood???

This was a test I was trying before using the delrin as a dowel to assemble the puzzle pen. Test failed (IMO)

Do I need to wax the delrin first???
Click to expand...


Some questions;

Are you absolutely sure it's delrin?

Reason I ask this is that there is another material out there that looks like delrin, with very similar properties, but is bondable.

Was the delrin "pretreated"?

Some ways to give delrin some "tooth" is to flame treat it, chromic acid etch it, or to mechanically abrade it. If there is any mention of "sanitizing" then it was chemically treated to assist in bonding.

BTW: some common adhesives for binding "treated delrin" are epoxy, polyurethanes, and cyanoacrylates. There is also something new on the horizon called cyanopoxy that shows great primise in bonding.

Finally, Is it possible that the wood swelled? Did you do this test in a piece of pine or a hardwood?
 
Mudder called, but for everyone else,

I placed a 3/8" dowel (delrin) in a 7/16" hole in poplar. Drilled crossgrain. When I DID get the rod out, the CA would not peel off the delrin rod.

Mudder has given me an assignment, which I will try and report results.
 
Kasper
Also try Regal Plastics there in Springfield they have a scrap bin that is great. You can also try Poly-Fab but watch them. Both places supply to the trade but will deal with us small usere also.
Jay
 
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