Nova G3 Chuck - no numbers

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egnald

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Jun 9, 2017
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Greetings from Nebraska.

I bought a second Nova G3 chuck for my lathe and it arrived today. My first G3 chuck from about 5 years ago came with a set of 50mm jaws, but it almost always has my pen drilling jaws installed, so I decided to get another one just so I don't have to change the jaws out when I need to do something that doesn't work well with the pen drilling set up. So, I bought just the chuck and adapter for my headstock threads.

I was really surprised to find that the jaw slides were not numbered. Even the replacement jaw slides from Teknatool are numbered and each one has its own SKU (23051 through 23054 for #1 through #4 respectively). Perhaps they are numbered just to help keep things straight with the sections of their jaw sets. I know that the jaws themselves are numbered so they can be installed in the same order as they were when they were machined, but the numbers on the jaw slides must really not matter. Can anyone confirm my supposition?

Regards,
Dave

PS I also noticed that the G3 T-Bar handle sure looks and feels a lot cheaper than the handle that came with my first chuck. It looks like it is nickel plated and feels kind of clunky-like because of the loose fitting sliding T-Bar. My older one doesn't have a sliding T-bar and it looks and feels a lot more solid than what came with this new chuck. Comments?
 
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Joined
Dec 26, 2021
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85
Location
NZ
Greetings from Nebraska.

I bought a second Nova G3 chuck for my lathe and it arrived today. My first G3 chuck from about 5 years ago came with a set of 50mm jaws, but it almost always has my pen drilling jaws installed, so I decided to get another one just so I don't have to change the jaws out when I need to do something that doesn't work well with the pen drilling set up. So, I bought just the chuck and adapter for my headstock threads.

I was really surprised to find that the jaw slides were not numbered. Even the replacement jaw slides from Teknatool are numbered and each one has its own SKU (23051 through 23054 for #1 through #4 respectively). Perhaps they are numbered just to help keep things straight with the sections of their jaw sets. I know that the jaws themselves are numbered so they can be installed in the same order as they were when they were machined, but the numbers on the jaw slides must really not matter. Can anyone confirm my supposition?

Regards,
Dave

PS I also noticed that the G3 T-Bar handle sure looks and feels a lot cheaper than the handle that came with my first chuck. It looks like it is nickel plated and feels kind of clunky-like because of the loose fitting sliding T-Bar. My older one doesn't have a sliding T-bar and it looks and feels a lot more solid than what came with this new chuck. Comments?
Although teknatool is a nz company I think they may now have some of their manufacturing done offshore,
China maybe,but not sure of that.
 

jrista

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Aug 12, 2021
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Colorado
I've accidentally put the wrong jaws on the wrong slides numerous times. The jaws themselves were in order, but not 4:4, 3:3, etc. on the slides. I haven't noticed any problems when I do that. I don't usually have the jaws real tight, though, so I'm not really sure that it matters all that much from a slide standpoint. Even if I tightened the jaws all the way...the slides usually aren't fully closed at that point, as when I remove my jaws, I am then able to tighten the slides to the point where they all touch in the center.
 

TonyL

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Mar 9, 2014
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Georgia
My experience has been the same as Jon's. I didn't even notice the numbers for years. However, I just make pens and bottle stoppers. So I don't know if what you will be turning requires a greater level of precision.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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1,798
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webberville, mi
My understanding is that when this style of chuck was introduced, the manufacturing process involved "slicing" a jaw blank into 4 separate pieces. The tolerances were such that the individual pieces needed to be in the same orientation each time they were installed on the chuck. So - they numbered them to insure that happened. I believe the manufacturing process changed a while ago so that the numbering is no longer necessary but the numbering continued (we always do it that way). Sounds like they eliminated a no longer necessary process.
 

lorbay

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Jul 2, 2009
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3,378
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BC. Canada
I have noticed on my nova chucks there are no physical numbers stamped on them but have very lightly centre punch marks on them and some are very light and hard to see.
Lin
 

KenB259

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Dec 24, 2017
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Michigan
I bought a Nova G3 Pro tek, this past summer and the slides as well as the jaws are numbered. I have no idea what makes it a "Pro tek", it looks the same as the one I bought a few years ago.
 

egnald

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Jun 9, 2017
Messages
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Columbus, Nebraska, USA
I bought a Nova G3 Pro tek, this past summer and the slides as well as the jaws are numbered. I have no idea what makes it a "Pro tek", it looks the same as the one I bought a few years ago.

Hi Ken,

It is my understanding that the Pro-Tek is that their jaws have dovetail and serrated jaws to improve holding by applying an inward force that pulls the work towards the chuck. It uses Torx type screws instead of Allen type for attaching the jaws. I think it also has some material that keeps junk from getting into the gears of the chuck and some other improvements like index holes.

Dave
 

penicillin

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Feb 27, 2019
Messages
1,036
Hi Ken,

It is my understanding that the Pro-Tek is that their jaws have dovetail and serrated jaws to improve holding by applying an inward force that pulls the work towards the chuck. It uses Torx type screws instead of Allen type for attaching the jaws. I think it also has some material that keeps junk from getting into the gears of the chuck and some other improvements like index holes.

Dave
The new PRO-TEK Torx screws are the same as the older Allen type other than the tool used to drive them. I got tired of the time it takes to fit the Allen type driver in the hex sockets, so I bought a set of the Torx screws and T-driver for a four year old Nova G3 chuck. It was a $20 indulgence, but worth it to me. If you are looking for them, do a web search for "nova 6076 screws".
 

jrista

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Aug 12, 2021
Messages
2,222
Location
Colorado
The new PRO-TEK Torx screws are the same as the older Allen type other than the tool used to drive them. I got tired of the time it takes to fit the Allen type driver in the hex sockets, so I bought a set of the Torx screws and T-driver for a four year old Nova G3 chuck. It was a $20 indulgence, but worth it to me. If you are looking for them, do a web search for "nova 6076 screws".
I use a set of star head screwdrivers for most of my allen wrench needs. They aren't Torx brand, same thing though. I generally prefer an allen wrench over a phillips head, but the ironic thing about both is they are both ubiquitous, and are both the least qualified for the job! :p

Drives me crazy that philips head screw drivers basically won the war, as they are, IMO, the worst screw driver and screw design on the planet. I've stripped 100x more philips head screws and drivers than all other types combined.

I find that the star screw drivers work well for allen type screws as well. You don't actually need to replace them with actual star screws...a star driver will fit just fine in my experience. They fit the holes perfectly, and give you plenty more torque, and will usually fit into areas that allens can't because of the L shape. They also, of course, work with the Torx type screws or any other star screw.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2021
Messages
85
Location
NZ
I use a set of star head screwdrivers for most of my allen wrench needs. They aren't Torx brand, same thing though. I generally prefer an allen wrench over a phillips head, but the ironic thing about both is they are both ubiquitous, and are both the least qualified for the job! :p

Drives me crazy that philips head screw drivers basically won the war, as they are, IMO, the worst screw driver and screw design on the planet. I've stripped 100x more philips head screws and drivers than all other types combined.

I find that the star screw drivers work well for allen type screws as well. You don't actually need to replace them with actual star screws...a star driver will fit just fine in my experience. They fit the holes perfectly, and give you plenty more torque, and will usually fit into areas that allens can't because of the L shape. They also, of course, work with the Torx type screws or any other star screw.
Yes,Phillip's and Pozi both a bit outdated.They were an improvement on the old slotted screws,which still have use in period restoration work where screws may be visible.
Allen heads still provide some advantages, occasionally, particularly when you need to go a bit off square in a tight spot,and can use the rounded end type key.
The quick change adapters for the nova 2 seem to work ok.
 
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