Noob question- How do I keep ink from clogging?

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Guanavia

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
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7
Hi everyone,

Sorry if this has been asked before. I've searched the forum and didn't come up with anything. I'm pretty new to pen turning and am working on putting out a good product, so of course I continue testing the ones I've made. I've run into an issue with my fountain pens:

Whether I use ink cartridges or an ink pump with some Noodler's ink, the ink stops feeding after the initial bit that gets prime at the nib.

What's going on:

If I use a cartridge, the nib will take 1/3 or so of the ink from the cartridge, write GREAT for about a page, then stop writing. The rest of the ink doesn't feed to the nib, and I have to replace the cartridge. If I use an ink pump, basically the same thing happens. Except once it stops I can take the barrel apart and manually pump the ink into the nib from the pump. While that approach works, it's really a pain to do every time.

I've attempted to use cartridges from different manufacturers, I've used three different ink pumps, and I've used multiple different kits from various manufacturers. I've made the more expensive gold and titanium models, as well as the cheaper 'classic american' models. Nothing seems to work.

I have noticed that other than being all gold or gold and silver, all the nibs seem to have the the same scrollwork and 'iridium tip, Germany' written on them. So they all appear similar.

It's annoying enough to write with myself that I don't really feel comfortable giving an instrument with that problem as a gift, much less trying to sell it. Does anyone have any advice on how to get these to write properly?

Thanks!
 
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Thanks for the reply. I'm using black Noodler's ink from a local pen shop, the I tried a cartridge that came with the kit. Both having the same results.

I've also read through that tip sheet. It's exactly what I've been doing. After filling the ink pump I advance the plunger until a drop of ink forms at the nib, clean it, then write. It rights until the ink that was primed in the nib is gone, then I have to advance it again.
 
There are three possibilities to consider.

The most likely problem is that you are getting an air lock in the feed. This is easy to resolve if you are using a pump (more difficult with cartridges). Twist the knob on the pump very slowly until you see a drop of ink forming on the feed. As soon as you see that drop, twist the knob in the opposite direction to draw that drop back into the feed. That will reprime the feed, and you should be able to write immediately.

Another is that there is some oil or grease on the nib or feed of the pen. Try flushing the pen using water with a bit of dishwashing detergent - put a few drops of detergent in a glass and add water, and then using the pump, draw this liquid into the pen, and then eject it. Repeat this process several times. Then, dump the water/detergent mixture, and repeat the rinsing process using plain water.

If that doesn't work, then the ink flow in the pen may need to be adjusted. While you can learn how to do this yourself from videos posted on the internet (Brian from Goulet Pens, or Stephen Brown both have videos on the subject), it would probably be smart to find someone who can show you personally how to do it.
 
Well, so far I've gotten any air bubbles that were in the converter out. Wrote for awhile, same problem. Then I disassembled the nib and feeder, flushed with light detergent and put the assembly back together. Still the same issue.

It works great when it's first primed, then it just like the ink stops feeding. Going to attempt to look up a couple videos on adjusting the nib next.
 
Sometimes just achanging to a different ink cures the problem.

Not always, but sometimes.

For some reasons some pens that write wonderfully with one ink will fail to write or write well with others.

Most fountain pen kits aren't using the best quality of nibs and feeds, a good quality feed and nib assembly often costing more than the entire kit, and they need some tuning to write well. Tuning one takes a bit of proctice, since you're using Noodlers ink here's something to look at The magic of Ebonite - Edwardian and Victorian ink flow - YouTube

Fountain pens are an adventure in learning by themselves.
 
Wow, yeah I suppose carving my own feed is definitely an avenue to go. There's definitely WAY more to a fountain pen than I had ever imagined. :) He does explain that the plastic feeds that are in pretty much all of the fountain pen kits are... not that great.

I'd love to be able to dedicate enough time to learning to carve my own feeds and get 100% custom with the making of pens. But right now I simply don't have the time to devote to it.

I'll try another ink brand and see how that works, but is there an option to buy other feeds, or other nibs, or something more reliable at reasonable prices? All I really want (and this may be a tall order, I don't know) is the writing action and style of a fountain pen with the reliability of those pilot G2 gel rollers; which were my old favorite pen before I started turning pens and realized how much better the writing action of a fountain pen can be.
 
Hi everyone. Thanks for all the great advice. I finally solved the issue!! :)

I tried pretty much everything, changing inks, cleanings, different ink pumps, cartridges etc. Nothing. After watching the video posted by Frank123 about making your own feeds I started to think maybe I needed to stick to rollerballs. I finally realized that I either needed a solution, or using the pen wasn't worth the annoyance, so I decided I may as well try modifying the feeds. Even if it made the pen unusable. After watching the video I knew a little more about the mechanics of a fountain pen and feed and located the channel on the top of the feed, hollowed it out a little bit with a pocket knife, and whaddaya know... Feeds perfect from the first stroke after a refill to the last drop of ink!!

Thanks for all the great info and help everyone. On to more turning!

If any of you have any more thoughts regarding the best, most durable parts kits I'd love to hear that too. I've used kits from Arizona Sillouette, Berea, Woodcraft, and Rockler. Have been looking at Penn State and Craft Supplies too, but some of the supposedly 'durable' and expensive Titanium and Rhodium platings I've used still wore more than I expected... Any thoughts on the more durable kits? A lot of them look nearly identical...
 
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