Newest home-cast. Possibly the best colors I've gotten so far.

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Drstrangefart

Drstrangefart

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Sep 15, 2010
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Woodstock, Ga. U.S.A.
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I made some small pigment adjustments and some handling adjustments that resulted in so far my best vertical cast to date. There ARE some bubbles marring the surface, but smaller and less of them than last time. PROGRESS! This should pay off when I'm pouring a normally thinner resin that doesn't hold the bubbles as readily. I LOVE the color on this one, it's what I've been after on the last 5 or 6 blanks I've cast, and I should be able to replicate it pretty readily. I didn't get too over-the-top with the finish, as this is probably just a carry pen that will be torture tested thanks to the bubbles in the surface. The pictures can't capture the depth of the color on this, sadly. The Pearlex REALLY pops.
 
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Drstrangefart said:
Thanks! Next step is trying to repeat this in PR. And get rid of the bubbles. How much vacuum pressure is minimally acceptable?
Click to expand...
Seems like 40 lbs. was mentioned in a thread in casting. If you have a scroll saw....set your mold on the table, and let the vibration work out the bubbles. A good friend taught me that. :biggrin:
 
dalecamino said:
Drstrangefart said:
Thanks! Next step is trying to repeat this in PR. And get rid of the bubbles. How much vacuum pressure is minimally acceptable?
Click to expand...
Seems like 40 lbs. was mentioned in a thread in casting. If you have a scroll saw....set your mold on the table, and let the vibration work out the bubbles. A good friend taught me that. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

I think bringing those fumes inside the house would go over like a fart in church. Thought about it already.
 
Looks great!
I have been playing with Pearl Ex and your right, pictures just don't do it justice.
I don't have a pressure pot. I have just put a piece of slightly off center wood on my lathe and turn it on slow for about 10-20 min. Rest the molds against the lathe bed for that time. It helps get rid of most bubbles.
 
dexter0606 said:
If you're having trouble with surface bubbles why not just fill them with CA??
Click to expand...

They DO get filled with CA, but it's such a long process with the size and number of them. And it REALLY interrupts the pattern I'm trying to make with the PearlEx. I'm also using this opportunity to fine-tune casting skills so that I can possibly sell some of these blanks once I get a good routine dialed in.
 
Actually I stopped using vacume and air pressure,I found that the warmer the PR the
viscosity gets much better and the bubbles will float and rise quite nicely.
When I do use an outside source for eliminating bubbles it is an old style hand vibrator
(save the jokes)set on an old lamp table next to the mold.
 
Jjartwood said:
Actually I stopped using vacume and air pressure,I found that the warmer the PR the
viscosity gets much better and the bubbles will float and rise quite nicely.
When I do use an outside source for eliminating bubbles it is an old style hand vibrator
(save the jokes)set on an old lamp table next to the mold.
Click to expand...

I bathed this stuff in hot water during mixing and right up until the pour. I need to find something that will work for my current rig to vibrate bubbles out. WOW that sounds bad. I can't bring this stuff inside before it's cured.
 
Vaccuum PR? Why?

Measure out PR, add color pigment, don't stir voilently...stop stirring and let bubbles come out. Add hardener, stir slowly....just enough to get mixed thoroughly.....stop stirring.

Move stir stick to check for mixture 'thickness', when ready pour slowly.



Haven't seen a bubble using this method since day one(okay, the wife does it, but I get to watch).



Looks like tangerine/crimson maybe?







Scott (nice turned too) B
 
during the colder weather I'll pour in the garage place the mold in a tag sale pressure
cooker (plug the hole in the over ) and bring it in the house and set it by the furnace
the pressure cooker contains the odor quite well
 
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