New GluBoost video

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Most CA is built to be glue. GluBoost is designed to be a wood repair and finish. It has been used in guitar repair for several years, even very high end ($30,000) guitars. If it holds up to the vibrations of a musical instrument, it seems likely it will handle pens.

Most CA glues have, historically had "spider-web cracking" over time. They were built to be rigid, not flexible. So all flex CA products will be better than all non-flex. I find GluBoost uses a small amount of product even though the bottles are expensive, I expect the cost per pen to be very reasonable. And the cost of finishing the pen is a small fraction of the cost of many of the blanks I use. So, that's the short version of why GluBoost.
 
Another great video by Ed and Exotics. When asked about the advantage I completely agree with Ed. The consistency of the finish is what I like the most. Clear, clean, reliable and easy to apply.. I only use 4 to 5 coats also and the results are better than anything I have ever used in the past.

Thanks for another great video Ed.
 
mg_dreyer said:
Another great video by Ed and Exotics. When asked about the advantage I completely agree with Ed. The consistency of the finish is what I like the most. Clear, clean, reliable and easy to apply.. I only use 4 to 5 coats also and the results are better than anything I have ever used in the past.

Thanks for another great video Ed.
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Hi Mark:

Do you start with the blue or the orange in your video? Thank you!
 
I have started to use GB almost exclusively and have also stopped using Micro Mesh for most pens. I apply the GB back and forth with the grain with the lathe off. Seems to go on smoother that way since it's self leveling. I use .0000 steel wool to smooth it out. Then I go to EEE or a mild rubbing compound before using plastic polish. (someone suggested I use some DNA after the EEE as it contains wax)
 
That sounds like the method Mark Dreyer has demonstrated often. It works VERY well in Mark's demos!!! And, if it works for you, keep it up!!

As I have said, I tend to experiment and I am not generally patient. So, I have tried to derive a method that is very close to the methods previously used to make CA glues into a finish, which means running the lathe and applying a few layers.
 
I just started using GluBoost on my past five pens I've done. Before, I was using Starbond CA, which I've always had good success with. The GluBoost does seem to produce a a smoother finish, though trying to quantify that is tough because the Starbond also did a great job. I also just switched from micromesh pads to 3M Kona paper, and holey moley what a difference! I wasn't expecting as much of a difference as I got, but the Kona paper produces a ridiculously smooth finish!
 
In all honesty it all boils down to personal preference. I don't know if anyone can tell the difference between one process or another when looking at the finished product.
 
Ed, thanks for the video which I find very informative. Has anyone used Hut polish for pens? Got lots of it and can buff with EEE if push comes to shove.
Edit- Can any accelerator be used with GluBoost?
 
Woodchipper said:
Edit- Can any accelerator be used with GluBoost?
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I did a little experimenting. The short answer is no, but the GluBoost accelerator might cause a little less fogging on CA glue. Don't know the chemistry of it but it smells different and feels a little more oily than regular accelerator.
 
Sorry for the delay. Tony - I do start with the blue. Because of the viscosity and self leveling I found I did not need to seal the wood and I use blue to level it immediately. I clearly see Ed's point and it works that way also. Ed's videos are always great and explain each step and the reasoning.

As for accelerator you must use the GluDry to get the correct drying. Because of the self leveling and viscosity thr GluDry is formulated to match the GluBoost. I have found that I really like the aerosol. Easy and consistent. Please review Ed's video or mine and you will see we only use a very little.

I think the biggest issue when people are challenged with the product it is because they use too much GluBoost. A little goes a long way. Unlike the traditional CA finishes I am not try to glop it on. A nice even thin coat. Then a few more. Generally only 4 - 6 like in Ed's video. And light sanding. I use steel wool to get any nibs off.

Overall Ed's video is great and you can see how easy and consistent it is to use.
 
mg_dreyer said:
Please review Ed's video or mine and you will see we only use a very little.
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+1 I realized that when I first started using it as I used up 2 cans of aerosol and still had 1/2 of the GB left. It goes a long way. "A little dab'l do ya"

@mg_dreyer Do you have a link to your video? My reasoning to use the orange first is that being thinner it can soak in better on bare wood but apparently either works. I'll have to try that.
 
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mg_dreyer said:
Sorry for the delay. Tony - I do start with the blue. Because of the viscosity and self leveling I found I did not need to seal the wood and I use blue to level it immediately. I clearly see Ed's point and it works that way also. Ed's videos are always great and explain each step and the reasoning.

As for accelerator you must use the GluDry to get the correct drying. Because of the self leveling and viscosity thr GluDry is formulated to match the GluBoost. I have found that I really like the aerosol. Easy and consistent. Please review Ed's video or mine and you will see we only use a very little.

I think the biggest issue when people are challenged with the product it is because they use too much GluBoost. A little goes a long way. Unlike the traditional CA finishes I am not try to glop it on. A nice even thin coat. Then a few more. Generally only 4 - 6 like in Ed's video. And light sanding. I use steel wool to get any nibs off.

Overall Ed's video is great and you can see how easy and consistent it is to use.
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Thank you.
 
SmokeGSU said:
I just started using GluBoost on my past five pens I've done. Before, I was using Starbond CA, which I've always had good success with. The GluBoost does seem to produce a a smoother finish, though trying to quantify that is tough because the Starbond also did a great job. I also just switched from micromesh pads to 3M Kona paper, and holey moley what a difference! I wasn't expecting as much of a difference as I got, but the Kona paper produces a ridiculously smooth finish!
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Didn't see how to edit my original post, but anyone who read it should know I misspelled ZONA sandpaper. It's not Kona. I blame the lack of coffee earlier. Here's a link on Amazon!

Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_na5UDbJBW9Z39
 
Andy

Just because you asked.

I have a few videos on YouTube. The first one is 20 years of pen making. One from the AAW and a few on finishing techniques. Feel free to view them all. Goal is to catch Ed someday on quality videos.
 
mg_dreyer said:
Andy

Just because you asked.
I have a few videos on YouTube. The first one is 20 years of pen making. One from the AAW and a few on finishing techniques. Feel free to view them all. Goal is to catch Ed someday on quality videos.
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Hey Mark. I've been a subscriber to your channel for a while now. I learned about GB watching the demo you did at one of the turners assn meetings. I basically follow your method but I'm lazy and also got sick of the mess that the m mesh made so I tried using the EE. Been happy with it so far. Funny thing is I sometimes forget which one you start with (orange or blue) as evidenced by the fact that I now realize I don't start with orange. I usually start with blue like you taught me. :) I notice in this video you aren't using the steel wool between the orange and blue like I think you did in the video I saw. Saves another step. Glad to see Rockler carries it now. Still experimenting with the dye I got with my first order. Doesn't seem to bring out the chatoyance like it does with water based dye under the GB.

Thanks for the definitive answer on painting the blank vs the tube, although a full 16th scares me. If I need to I use a little flapper piece of sandpaper on a dowel just to the point where the tube will slip through the blank without getting stuck before adding the glue. There seems to be some variation of a few thousandths in the tube size depending on the manufacturer.

For better vids might i suggest using a camera or lens that doesn't give you that fisheye look as well as better lighting and a few close-ups. In your acrylic vid with your black shirt on you can't really see the difference in the 2 purple pens. You can grab a couple of 1080p USB webcams for less than $20 on Amazon then you can use your computer as a monitor so you can see what's happening as you film it. I used one when I made this vid.

I use one thin coat of orange GB on pens before I laser engrave then as it seems to give a sharper image, then go back and use the blue until I can't feel it and then the orange.
 
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