new floor question

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maxwell_smart007

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I have a room I'm renovating. I removed all the linoleum (it wasn't glued down), and the 1950s newspapers they used below it. I'd like to tile the floor and perhaps use a radiant heat wire system in it as well.

I discovered only slat wood - no plywood - below the linoluem.

Can I screw cement board to the slat wood, or should I use a plywood underlayment first, and then cement board...I'm trying to make it so I don't have to touch this floor again after I'm done...but I"m not sure what's 'normal' in terms of tile backer...
 
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I think it will depend on how flat and rigid the slat wood is. If there is a lot of movement or "give" you will want to put down a plywood base. I think I would do it anyway. It does not involve much extra cost and will guarantee no future problems.
 
Ceramic tile or vinyl tile?

The last time I personally did a ceramic tile floor was 40 years ago. I put that into the 'been there, done that, have the t-shirt' category.

I was constructing living space in an unfinished attic that had a simple tongue/groove board floor. I put down a particle board underlayment everywhere, and then an additional layer of plywood where the tile would later go. I was advised at the time that would meet current standards/expectations, and it seemed to hold up - at least it did until we sold the house - don't know if the subsequent owners have had any problems. One possibly pertinent point - at the time I did that work, it was popular/common to use fairly small (1-2") that came attached to a mesh backing.

A few years ago, we had to have the ceramic tile floor in our master bathroom redone. The house had been originally built 11 years ago with plyscore underlayment over the floor joists, and then a second layer of plywood underlayment nailed under the bathroom floor. And of course, tile fashion had changed and called for much larger tiles - 1 foot square or larger. I think that's important because I don't think the larger tiles are as forgiving of sloppy installations. The problem was that the underlayment installation was done wrong, and the floor was cracking over the joints in the underlayment - mainly the mortar joints, but we also had a couple of cracked tiles. We hired a very good tile guy who ripped up the tile and top layer of plywood, leaving only the plyscore over the joists. Then, he put down a layer of cement board using glue and about a million screws (no nails). Seriously - I think they are on 2" centers, but he said that was the key to getting an installation that would really last. And before laying the tile over that, he applied a sealant on the joints between sheets of cement board.

Now, for vinyl tile, I think you can get away with simple plywood, or even particle board underlayment.
 
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Ceramic tile requires a very stiff floor. Deflection ( up and down movement) is an enemy.


Check the floor joists for size and spacing. Get an engineer to check the deflection if you cannot find the tables for that floor. Odds are that you will need to add an additional beam and lally columns to stiffen the floor. If you cannot control deflection, you will fight grout failures.
 
No need for the cement board. I would use a good grade plywood, 1/2" at least, and then glue down a 1/4" (usually actually 6mm) on top to give a nice, smooth, non-porous surface, then use one of the sealers made specifically for under tiles.

You can actually get nice 12" tiles at the big box home stores for the same or less than linoneum. And it won't tear. Worst that happens, you crack a tile and you replace it down the road.

Gary
 
No need for the cement board. I would use a good grade plywood, 1/2" at least, and then glue down a 1/4" (usually actually 6mm) on top to give a nice, smooth, non-porous surface, then use one of the sealers made specifically for under tiles.

You can actually get nice 12" tiles at the big box home stores for the same or less than linoneum. And it won't tear. Worst that happens, you crack a tile and you replace it down the road.

Gary

I'll second this exact plan: Good plywood; finishing layer; sealer; tiles. For the large tiles, it has to be level. We used 20" and 16".



Just had 3 bathrooms done - I DID NOT DO - This was what the contractors did ( house built in 1964).
 

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I put 4x4 ceramic tiles in both my upstairs bathrooms over the plywood after tearing up the linoleum. This was about 15 yrs ago and no problems still. Thinking you can tear up (or find the joist) under the slat floor to attach plywood to and go from there.
 
I'm thinking plywood, then Ditra uncoupling membrane, might be the best method...I'm not sure if cement board is necessarily something I need...

Andrew,

You are on the right track in applying the plywood then Ditra. Make sure that you glue and screw the plywood down to your existing floor. Check the Ditra specs re floor thickness to ensure you have a sufficient base re the size, spacing and the span of our your floor joists. You may also want to add to your joist bridging. Schluter-DITRA - Schluter-Systems.

Wade
 
tile on wood floor a NO NO!

Use Duroc or fiber board. Use thin set under cement board to level and make solid. Any moisture that gets on plywood will destroy new tile... Talk to tile contractor or supplier not a bunch of pen turners wood workers,, Sorry guys.
 
Just to add more thought to consider, i had my kitchen and master bath done with a product called congoleum. I have never had a tile looking floor i was more happy with! Its like a combo between linoleum and ceramic. When people come in they swear it must be ceramic tile. But it is not cold on the feet, it allows for movement, you drop stuff on it it doesnt dent or break. It cleans even easier than tile and it is grouted, but the grout which looks like real grout is kinda like a caulking and does not absorb any dirt or mildew. The cost was excellent, it does need subfloor luan under it, thats cheap as well. The cost of the floor wasnt even worth any savings for me to do it myself. Install was only like $200!!!
 
Check your joist spacing, but if it was me I would lay t&g subflooring. Layer of mortor, cement board either screwed down or use a roofing gun if big area. Tape and morter joints with cement board tape and then mortor and tile. I have laid 1000's if feet if tile in houses we have owned with great results. Good luck!

Edit: thin set, not mortor!!!!
 
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