New Drill bit

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
ldubia

ldubia

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
888
Location
Boulder Creek, CA
Here's one for everyone. Check out the new bit! The new Wide Reach!:eek: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Wide Reach drillbit.jpg
​

This happened on my lathe at slow speed, drilling a pen blank. The drill head got yanked out of the tailstock and got wrapped up in the toolrest. It broke the wood but not all the way. The drill was embedded in the wood. I had to pry it off after changing my shorts. :eek::eek::eek:


Has anyone ever had a morse taper let go like this? The taper is clean, free of dirt, etc as is the drill morse taper. I checked it after setting it to make sure it was tight. It would not budge. I was drilling cherry burl on a Turncrafter midi lathe.
 
Last edited:
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I actually get that a lot, and it bugs the heck out of me. What will happen is the bit will self-feed a bit (no pun intended), and pull itself out of the taper. I make sure that the tapers are clean and clear, and that I've seated the drill chuck with a hammer tap through a block of wood. And still it will come loose pretty easily...
 
a little vibration will cause the morse taper to loosen best to use a draw bar, the drill chuck should have a threaded hole off the back, use this with threaded rod to match to bolt it thru the tail stock so it won't slip.
 
Wow I didn't even know that was possible! I drill with a Turncrafter and so far, knock on wood, that has not happened to me. I wonder if having a heavy drill chuck helps?
 
rjwolfe3 said:
Wow I didn't even know that was possible! I drill with a Turncrafter and so far, knock on wood, that has not happened to me. I wonder if having a heavy drill chuck helps?
Click to expand...

It knocked on wood for sure. Knocked it clear around the garage. :eek:

I am using the large drill chuck. 3/4" I believe or 1". It's the biggest I could find anyway.

Last time this happened, it caught a knot and stopped the lathe.
 
Hmmmm none of my drill chucks have threaded holes, what do I do then?

BigguyZ said:
pensbydesign said:
a little vibration will cause the morse taper to loosen best to use a draw bar, the drill chuck should have a threaded hole off the back, use this with threaded rod to match to bolt it thru the tail stock so it won't slip.
Click to expand...

That's such an obvious solution.... Why would I want to do that?? :biggrin:
Click to expand...
 
AceMrFixIt said:
A friend of mine bent a masonary bit I lent him, I told him I will use it to drill around corners......
Click to expand...

Aren't friends supposed to do that? :eek:

I was thinking maybe this could be used to round the blank. :biggrin: Imagine, the whole blank would be the exact size roundness all the way down. No dips, gouges, goof ups, waviness. Yeah. That's what I'll use it for. :rolleyes:

Larry
 
Last edited:
BigguyZ said:
pensbydesign said:
a little vibration will cause the morse taper to loosen best to use a draw bar, the drill chuck should have a threaded hole off the back, use this with threaded rod to match to bolt it thru the tail stock so it won't slip.
Click to expand...

That's such an obvious solution.... Why would I want to do that?? :biggrin:
Click to expand...
[/quote]

The only problem I found with using a drawbolt is it doesn't allow you to advance the bit with the tailstock handwheel. I suppose you leave it slightly loose, advance the bit till it tightens up on the drawbar, then loosen up the tailstock and slide things forward ... repeat.
I have found it easier to just "steady" the chuck in my left hand as I advance the bit with my right.
You can see how I do it here ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1suUVIQpfQ&feature=channel

It doesn't totally eliminate the problem but at least gives you some pre-warning that it is about to happen. :biggrin:
 
I hadn't heard of or even thought of such a thing. I have never had a drill chuck come out of the taper before. I have extended the tailstock taper too far and had the entire assembly get pulled out, and that's not too fun and does not go back in so easily. My chuck does have threads or a threaded hole in it, I do remember that being the case. Rigging up a drawbar just makes perfect sense now that it's been mentioned. But what about the crank wheel in the end of the tail stock? The crank wheel is held on with a small lug nut...how does a draw bar go through and the crank still be there and working? What's the crank attached to in the center of the tailstock? There is also something in the middle of the tailstock that if you crank back the drill chuck far enough, it hits a dead end causing it to release from the taper...but I dont' know what that dead end is, or where it is inside and if it would be in the way of a drawbar too. I don't know much of anything about the inner guts of the tailstock.
 
"Hmmmm none of my drill chucks have threaded holes, what do I do then?"

Drills and taps will overcome that missing element. I have 1/4 by 20 3/8 by 16 and M10 mt2 tapers in the stable. All Thread makes a drawbar easy -- but draw bar is especially essential when using a MT taper and unsupported piece in the headstock.

Firm tension is all it takes to make sure things do not come out and fly--


I cannot use a draw bar on the tailstock on the big lathe (Stubby) so use one hand on the drill chuck and one hand on the tailstock wheel. Slow to moderate speed on the material being drilled.
 
As Butch would say, "One hand on the quill handle, one hand on the drill chuck."

After watching a chuck spin at 1000 rpm hanging by a 7mm bit, I do that religiously.
 
If you're holding it firmly to the quill, it isn't going anywhere. If you start backing the quill off and the chuck doesn't go with it, you know pretty quickly long before it's dangerous.
 
Just curious how many that have had that problem are using the Jet mini 1014 ?

I know I had to cut down my dead centers in order to fit my headstock and I may recall something about the tailstock requiring a shortened shaft??? I know on mine I have to be very aware of how far back I retract it because if I get within 7/8" or so it starts to eject the center (drill chuck) :eek:
 
I have a 1014. I've never heard the issue about needing a shotened taper. I may look into cutting that down and seeing how that works. Worst case scenario if I mess it up is I get to upgrade to a keyless chuck!
 
I have had the whole tailstock start turning on me because I forget to set the screw in the slot. and as far as the taper not fitting all the way in I just ground off the end so it would seat all the way in.
 
rjwolfe3 said:
Hmmmm none of my drill chucks have threaded holes, what do I do then?
Click to expand...


Most drill chucks have a jaw body and a double ended taper. MT on one end, JT on the other.

The drill chucks that are intended for drill press use will have a hole for a drawbar in the base of the MT taper. Like these:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1883&category=

Unfortunately if you put the drill chuck in the tailstock, you need a hollow tailstock to use the drawbar.
 
Lenny said:
Just curious how many that have had that problem are using the Jet mini 1014 ?

I know I had to cut down my dead centers in order to fit my headstock and I may recall something about the tailstock requiring a shortened shaft??? I know on mine I have to be very aware of how far back I retract it because if I get within 7/8" or so it starts to eject the center (drill chuck) :eek:
Click to expand...


Lenny; I cut off about 2/3rds of the tang on some of my drill chucks. Just see where the taper is when it "ejects". Measure the distance that is sticking out of the taper socket. Remove a little less than that from the tang of the taper.
 
I have two drill chucks .... one (the first one i had) doesn't have the threaded end for a draw bolt .... I now leave that one setup with a #4 center bit.... the second one does have threads for a draw bolt however using it defeats the ability to feed with the hand wheel. That's why I now just steady with my left hand and feed with the right.
I may try cutting mine down though just to see if it helps!
 
Don , very good memory !!! If you firmly seat your drill chuck in the MT of the tailstock it will stay put with just gentle hand pressure and even a bad catch will not spin the chuck . A drawbar for the chuck would be the right way to ensure that it don't work loose but as stated you then cand advance the chuck wiuth the handwheel . Just firmly seat the chuck then hiold the chuck with your left hand while you advance the chuck with the handwheel with your right hand .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom