New air compressor likely

[larryc]

My Husky 6 gal air compressor seems about to give up the ghost (I have to kick it once and a while to get it to run.)
I think I'm ready to spend the big bucks to get a stationary compressor rather than the portables I go through every couple of years.
If I do get the big one I am thinking of placing it in a shed outside of my shop which would require running an air line about 30' underground.
My two questions are:
1. Is it feasible to have the compressor in an unheated enclosure (considering freezing temps or below even in Georgia)?
2. What is the best bang for the buck in a stationary compressor?

 

[snyiper]

Up untill this year my 60 gallon oiless stayed in a unheated shop no issues. I am also looking into a new compressor I am looking at the Kobalt 80 gal 2 stage. I am also going to be doing some sand blasting.

 

[shull]

Just make sure that you use a water trap on the line (as it enters the shop) and make sure you don't forget to bleed off the tank, especially in humid weather. You will see some drop in pressure delivered to the shop with a 30' run + hose in shop. Depending on your use and the volume of air needed for your tools, this may or may not be an issue.

 

[Wood Butcher]

I had a 60 gal, 5hp, 220V compressor in the top of an unheated barn and used it all year without a problem. It was an Ingersall, used when I bought it and I sold it for $175 when we moved. The guy who bought it has never hooked it up and he bought it 5 years ago. As was said, don't let water collect in the lines if it can be frozen ( though I would think you wouldnt have that much water in the lines). I suggest an auto drain valve on the tank so water doesn't collect too deep and definately an air dryer close to the place where you will hook up the hoses. The HF $25 unit works well. I plumbed with iron pibe and thread dope. No leaks ever and I had drops all over the place to hook up the hoses. I'll bet you can get a good one at Tractor Supply if you have one in your area.
WB

 

[widows son]

stationary compressor I use

My Husky 6 gal air compressor seems about to give up the ghost (I have to kick it once and a while to get it to run.)
I think I'm ready to spend the big bucks to get a stationary compressor rather than the portables I go through every couple of years.
If I do get the big one I am thinking of placing it in a shed outside of my shop which would require running an air line about 30' underground.
My two questions are:
1. Is it feasible to have the compressor in an unheated enclosure (considering freezing temps or below even in Georgia)?
2. What is the best bang for the buck in a stationary compressor?

I put my compressor outside because of the noise. It's covered so it doesn't get wet, whenever it decides to rain again in TX.

I have a Speedaire compressor from Grainger's that has done quite well for several years. 220V 15 amp, 60 gal vertical. I use 3/4" galvanized pipe reduced to 3/8" at the oil/water filter on the shop end. The tank will last a lot longer if you open the drain valve on the bottom of the tank once a week and let the condensate drain out. The compressor has no problems keeping up with my air tools. Give yourself plenty of room around the compressor to get to the belt, filter and fittings and other connections.

Here's the link to a similar model:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Single-Stage-Compressor-4ME96?Pid=search

 

[Sylvanite]

Yes, it is feasible to keep an air compressor in an unheated enclosure in GA. Occasional freezing temperatures will not hurt it -- just drain the tank and lines periodically. I know several people who keep compressors outdoors in NC.

If you really want a good air compressor, save up your money for a Saylor-Beall. Quincy is also a good brand, and I've been eyeing an Eaton compressor for a long time. Ingersoll Rand used to have a good reputation, but except for the T30 model, they've sold out their name for quality.

Pay no attention to the horsepower ratings of compressors you see at retail stores. They have little to do with reality anymore. "Free air" is another meaningless statistic. Look for CFM at pressure and for duty cycle. Amperage is also important. A true 5hp compressor will draw 30 amps at 220 volts (and take a 40A circuit).

If you know what air tools you'll be using, then you can decide what pressure and volume you'll need. That will help you narrow down your choice of compressor.

Regards,
Eric

 

[ctubbs]

The larger the pipe from the compressor to the shop, the less pressure drop you will have. A 1" line should be plenty large for anything you will need to do unless you are a real air hog. As stated above, buy the best unit you can afford.
On your current pump, you may be having a capacitor going bad on the motor. That will cause the starting problem you described. Not being familiar with your motor, I can not give precise info on how to replace it.
Charles