Need little help

[srs64]

Got a few questions if anyone can help..
Looking to buy a few blanks for some bowls..
a few time I see this
( Pieces have been processed green and wax sealed )
Does this mean it still needs to dry before turning?

Next
I got a jet 1014 plus I have a Barracuda 2
I am wanting jaws for doing the outside of the bowls
but when reading up on the it say for max bowl size.
I can do up to ten inch and not sure the jaws to get for the
Barracuda 2 chuck


Sherman

 

[mark james]

I have the same Jet, which I love ... (and a larger Nova) Size of bowls will be tight.

I have not used the Barracuda, so I can't recommend. I have Teknatool Chucks.

Beyond my backyard, I have bought bowl blanks from Craft Supply USA which are essentially dry... But I would still turn them to 1", let them dry further for 4-6 weeks, then final turn and finish. If you start out with Ash and other common woods for experience you should do fine cost wise.

My experience is not great, so be patient... There are others that should have better/additional suggestions.

Have FUN!

 

[plantman]

Sherman; PSI offers a Flat Jaw System for a Barracuda2 Chuck that will increase your turning capacity to 14 inches. Page 124 in the #141A catalog. Can also be found on Amazon. Your only limited by the swing capacity of your lathe, unless you can turn on the outboard side. Jim S

 

[The Penguin]

on a 1014, I would not turn a bowl larger than 8" diameter. even then, try to bandsaw it perfectly round before mounting it on the lathe.

for reversing, I would recommend learning to use a jam-chuck, or friction drive using a "Rubbery Chucky" or homemade friction drive.

 

[Wildman]

"( Pieces have been processed green and wax sealed )
Does this mean it still needs to dry before turning?"

Answer to that question yes, no, or maybe. Maybe all about not knowing moisture content of the bowl blank before turning.

Rough turning will speed up the drying process, set aside to dry before final turning & finishing.

Turn thin, sand, finish, and with some luck will have a fine bowl.

Agree with what "the Penquin telling you.

Check out woodturningonline.com for more info on reverse turning and holding wood on the lathe and save yourself some money.

 

[BayouPenturner]

Turning wet wood for bowls is easier than dry wood, the wet wood cuts easier. So hog out the excess leave it a little thicker than the finished product to dry after coating with with a sealer. Then get it to the finished dimensions when it is dry. I it is less impact on my joints turning the bulk of the bowl while wet.

 

[Phillip Kelley]

Gold City Country!

I recently purchased a cherry blank that was totally encased in wax. Water/sap literally ran onto the gouge when I started turning. Wet/green sure turns faster/easier!! After turning and sanding I dried it in the microwave (an old one in the shop...I wouldn't recommend using the one in the kitchen) To get started, I usually bore a 2 1/8" DIA hole with a forstner bit so that I can mount it on a chuck. (I have the Barracuda 2 "C" Series and have recently bought the 2nd one for convenience) Mounting the blank in this manner allows me to turn and finish the bottom first. I add a tenon to hold in the chuck when I reverse the blank to complete the inside of the bowl. After the final sanding, drying, finish, etc, I sand the tenon off. I don't suppose there is perfect way...everyone has to develope and use their own method that works best for them...

 

[srs64]

Well I did a black walnut bowl which was wet i did the rough part and set it aside to dry and still it split any help there?
Did I need to reseal in it something to avoid that?

 

[The Penguin]

the first thing you should do is turn your bowl to a consistant wall thickness 10% of the diameter or the bowl. For example - turn a 10" bowl to 1" thick. Consistant wall thickness helps the wood dry evenly. 10% is the accepted rule of thumb for roughing bowls to set aside for drying and finishing later.
yes - you should seal the end grain with Anchorseal or similar end grain sealer.

or, take the partially turned bowl and pack it in a paper bag full of the shavings that came out of turning the bowl. This helps slow down drying and will help prevent cracking.

set the bowl aside and let it dry. generally 3-6 months. then take it out, true-up your tenon, remount and turn to final thickness.

 

[The Penguin]

another thing you can do is to turn your green wood into a bowl at final wall thickness and let it dry on it's own - it will warp. Interesting things happen as they dry.

I can't tell you what "final" thickness should be - maybe 3/16" at most for an "artsy" bowl and 5/16" - 3/8" for a utilitarian bowl.

 

[srs64]

I been doing pens for the most part tenon as in gluing a piece on?

Any pics?

I am greener then the wood I turn

Sherman

 

[kovalcik]

Well I did a black walnut bowl which was wet i did the rough part and set it aside to dry and still it split any help there?
Did I need to reseal in it something to avoid that?

I use Anchorseal on my wet bowls to seal the end grain inside and out. Even with sealing the end grain, or storing in shavings, or some other drying method, your bowl still may crack. Just the nature of the beast. Some take it as a design opportunity and fill the crack with something decorative.