My new 36” SawStop is in the house

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mmayo

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Yesterday I put together my new SawStop table saw. The three cast iron inserts were very heavy which is now good since they are bolted in place. I opted for the router table extension with dust collection. Next week the router lift arrives to complete the system. So far every was superb quality. It will definitely be an upgrade from my Delta contractors saw that has served me well. The photo shows the saw early yesterday as I start the build.

I have an suv filled with heavy cardboard and styrofoam to take to our transfer station for recycling.
 

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mmayo

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I have what is now called the Industrial Cabinet Saw, which was the only model they had back then. You will like it a lot.

Pete
Pete. Looking inside a cabinet saw is sooo much more advanced than the sophomoric attempts I made to increase dust collection in my contractors saw. Most of the cabinet will be free of dust with an assembly around the blade and hoses internally. The cast iron surface is amazing as is the fence system and quite easy adjustments. I can't wait to fire it up. Moving one saw and moving another into place takes some logistics.

The new designation is: SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Table Saw w/36'' Fence, Rails, and Extension Table. Mine is 120 as are all of my machines.

many tackle boxes ( over 70), 600+ cedar plugs, hundreds of pens etc were all cut on the old saw. It did the job.

Thanks
 
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penicillin

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Pete. Looking inside a cabinet saw is sooo much more advanced than the sophomoric attempts I made to increase dust collection in my contractors saw. Most of the cabinet will be free of dust with an assembly around the blade and hoses internally. The cast iron surface is amazing as is the fence system and quite easy adjustments. I can't wait to fire it up. Moving one saw and moving another into place takes some logistics.

The new designation is: SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Table Saw w/36'' Fence, Rails, and Extension Table. Mine is 120 as are all of my machines.

many tackle boxes ( over 70), 600+ cedar plugs, hundreds of pens etc were all cut on the old saw. It did the job.

Thanks
Congratulations!

Cautions for Mark:
  • Your new saw runs on 120v, but it needs a 20 amp circuit. 15 amps is not enough.
    • If you must use an extension cord, get the shortest one that fits, and make sure it is heavy gauge. (I use a 25 foot 12 gauge cord.)
  • Remember to use the feeler gauge and adjust the brake for every blade change. Do not assume that the next blade is a perfect match for the previous one. It isn't.
  • Those two arbor wrenches can give you a lot of torque on the bolt. Do not get overzealous when you tighten the arbor nut. Snug enough is good enough; it is not a race car lug nut. The risk of overtightening is that you can spread and damage the arbor threads over time. Eventually the nut won't fit. Someone from SawStop gave me that hint. That applies to all table saws, by the way.
For others:
Take note of that T-Glide fence. There is a lower cost fence option available, but the T-Glide fence is so worth the additional cost. I promise that you will never regret that choice.
 

Curly

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Adding to what penicillin said.

You are probably doing so already but read the manual cover to cover. Good information that is well illustrated and written.

Have a spare brake cartridge and the one in the saw will never be set off.

Should you have a mitre gauge with an aluminium sliding fence make sure you adjust it back to where it was if you moved it closer to the blade for mitres. It will be in the path of the blade when returned to 90º. DAMHIK.
 

penicillin

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Should you have a mitre gauge with an aluminium sliding fence make sure you adjust it back to where it was if you moved it closer to the blade for mitres. It will be in the path of the blade when returned to 90º. DAMHIK.
What Curly omitted was that it will trigger the brake if the blade touches that aluminum fence. I was present in the room, busy with other things, when someone messed up with an Incra jig. I heard the familiar "BANG!" followed by the equally familiar cursing.

(Familiar bang: I know from the hot dog demo what it sounds like. I have never triggered my own SawStop saw, and hope never to do so in the future.)
 

mmayo

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Congratulations!

Cautions for Mark:
  • Your new saw runs on 120v, but it needs a 20 amp circuit. 15 amps is not enough.
    • If you must use an extension cord, get the shortest one that fits, and make sure it is heavy gauge. (I use a 25 foot 12 gauge cord.)
  • Remember to use the feeler gauge and adjust the brake for every blade change. Do not assume that the next blade is a perfect match for the previous one. It isn't.
  • Those two arbor wrenches can give you a lot of torque on the bolt. Do not get overzealous when you tighten the arbor nut. Snug enough is good enough; it is not a race car lug nut. The risk of overtightening is that you can spread and damage the arbor threads over time. Eventually the nut won't fit. Someone from SawStop gave me that hint. That applies to all table saws, by the way.
For others:
Take note of that T-Glide fence. There is a lower cost fence option available, but the T-Glide fence is so worth the additional cost. I promise that you will never regret that choice.
The 36" model uses the better fence.

I'll pay attention to your hints.

Thanks
 

randyrls

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Harrisburg, PA 17112
  • Your new saw runs on 120v, but it needs a 20 amp circuit. 15 amps is not enough.
    • If you must use an extension cord, get the shortest one that fits, and make sure it is heavy gauge. (I use a 25 foot 12 gauge cord.)
Hint for extension cord, get one intended for window air conditioners. These have heavier gauge wire in them. You want a 12 AWG or 10 AWG.
 

goldendj

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Apr 13, 2020
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Location
Virginia
Yesterday I put together my new SawStop table saw. The three cast iron inserts were very heavy which is now good since they are bolted in place. I opted for the router table extension with dust collection. Next week the router lift arrives to complete the system. So far every was superb quality. It will definitely be an upgrade from my Delta contractors saw that has served me well. The photo shows the saw early yesterday as I start the build.

I have an suv filled with heavy cardboard and styrofoam to take to our transfer station for recycling.
Congrats! My wife surprised me as well, but I haven't gotten it together or had the 220 run yet. Did you have it delivered or pick it up yourself? My two boy and I had a fun time getting the pallet out of the back of the neighbor's van ...
 

mmayo

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Congrats! My wife surprised me as well, but I haven't gotten it together or had the 220 run yet. Did you have it delivered or pick it up yourself? My two boy and I had a fun time getting the pallet out of the back of the neighbor's van ...
I bought it at a Woodcraft store. I showed up in my Subaru Forester and two salesmen helped me load. I bought the 36" model with the router insert. The car was full and heavy as I drove home, really full. I asked four friends to help get the pallet-free saw out of the car. The cast iron wing was HEAVY. Remove it before removing the main saw body. Don't grab the cardboard. I'd already moved the router cast iron myself with great effort and all of the numerous other boxes. Fun moving with four chiefs and one Indian. We managed to get the saw out and onto a rolling cart and into my shop. I attached the mobility kit and asked one of the friends to help upright the saw. The wheels did not work at first so over it went. A single bolt was removed, two levers switched and all was right in five minutes. I built the entire rest of the saw alone. I had a rolling table with the ability to go up and down and that helped a lot. All bolts go it from below. My arms were not quite long enough laying on the cold cement, but I managed. BEWARE the cast iron pieces even when supported are scary above you as you try to get the bolts, lock washers and nuts together from below! I'm glad it's done. The instructions are scattered in the box you didn't think it would be in so open lots of boxes to find lots of instructions. I built the dust collection box and installed it before I found the instructions in another box. They have instructions for every configuration possible so be sure to find your configuration among all the other possibilities. The notes that tell you the instructions may be in another box are just maddening.

In my community we are asked to flatten cardboard before putting it in the bins. My Subaru was full of flattened cardboard after the build. Expect the same.

The saw is beautiful, the cast iron tops are magnificent, the router lift is a well built luxury I will grow into. The dust collection has to be better than my jerryrigged Delta contractors saw. I guess I'll learn to appreciate measuring and adjusting the SawStop with each blade change. I do it a lot from glueline rip to 80 crosscut so we will see.

Color me happy and anxious to move my existing saw and get this new baby in place. I fired it up just to see it run and hear it too. Dust collection surgery awaits.

Best of luck
 

mmayo

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After some delays, today it is installed and has dust collection. The zero clearance insert has been kerfed and the fence ruler zeroed. There are numerous adjustments to go but I had to cut something! I decided an inlay cheese cutter would be first. There are at least 8 different cuts to make one of these once the inlay is at hand. I'm impressed!!!! I always use a Freud GlueLine Rip blade and the cuts with the new saw are noteworthy. It looks like my jointer will be lonely most of the time for these projects. All cuts were very smooth indeed. Feeding was butter smooth and effortless. While there was dust on the saw table, most went down and to the dust collector.

The router table has a brand new Bosch 2-1/4 HP router. It will get a chance after the four cheese slicers get glued up.

After a bit of bass guitar surgery I'll read about more adjustments and perform them to improve accuracy and safety.
 

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