More items under cast PR. How well does PR hold up long term?

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thewishman

thewishman

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Just curious how well PR holds up through the years. I find that some PR pens, snake skin in this case, seems to suffer in a hot car. The clip dents the resin and a holding band in a pen case causes ridges in the surface.

Other than hot cars, is there anything that adversely affects PR over the long term.
 
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Carrying it in a purse without a case; in pants pockets with change. But these problems are with any kind or finish. The more shiny the more scratches show up.
 
In south Texas, anything left in a car during the summer melts LOL I have not noticed anything on cast pens over the years but have seen some wood pens crack
 
I have PR cast lying around for over 6 years now. I've done HOT shows also found out the wood dose not like hot had 10 high end pens crack 3 days later. The PR did just fine no yellowing but then again there not typically left in the sun. Intense heat will soften the resin a bit a car dash is a bad idea BUT I do loosen (bend) the clip so it is not tight on the barrel. I had dents in wood much more often then PR. Another thing besides PR can be easily fixed. If it looses it's shine it can be repolished. If it is scratched deep or has a bad dent you can turn or sand it down a bit and recast it. PR bonds real well to it's self as long as you are sure it's PR.
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watch_art said:
what would you use to bond PR to itself? CA or MEK or... ?
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Polyester resin will form a chemical bond with partially cured PR if the surface is still tacky. That is how thick fiberglass layup is done. Although each layer sets up before the next is laid, it all fuses together into one solid crystal.

Once fully cured (dry surface), however, freshly applied PR will not make a chemical bond - only a mechanical bond. For good adhesion, you need to lightly sand the surface (to give it some "tooth"), clean it with acetone, and then add resin.

If you're asking what glue to use for PR segmentation, I'd go with CA (MEK works as an acrylic cohesive, but not on PR). If you want to do a multi-layer casting, pour each layer after the previous one has set up, but before the surface hardens. IF you're overcasting a cured blank, scuff the surface first.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 
I'm just talking about glueing bits together - say to add a black end to a white barrel or something - and not messing with threading.

CA then - thanks!
Thin - thick? Does it matter?
 
watch_art said:
I'm just talking about glueing bits together - say to add a black end to a white barrel or something - and not messing with threading.

CA then - thanks!
Thin - thick? Does it matter?
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It really just depends on how much time you need. I use thick when gluing pieces together if I even use CA. Normally when segmenting, I use epoxy.
 
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