Micromesh wet or dry

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I only use MM wet. I sand wood pens dry with regular sandpaper to 600 grit then apply CA and sand with MM wet to 12000. Acrylics wet to 12000 as well.
 
I havent used MM wet either. I just run a fine soft cloth over it in between each grit. (non wood material only) but Im still learning so I guess I'll try it wet next time.:)
 
Hey Lazy.:D
We use dry only on wood and on acrylics we will use it wet. We have a different set for each. The wet is harder to clean but it just seems to do a better job on acrylics wet. Then again it might be all in my head!

Mike & Linda
 
The benefit on using it wet for me is that there will be no dust.

Make sure you line the lathe bed with something to catch any drips (I use old newspaper).

I just put all the MM in a bowl with lots of water (I also drip some dishwashing liquid on mine). This way, I can "rinse" it after using, no real clean-up is needed later.
 
micro mesh dry for wood. plastic micro mesh wet for plastics.

using mm for wood wet? is it a good idea on wood? raising the grain, adding moisture to the wood, then putting on a finish? i wait for days to get the moisture in snakewood to equalize with a centrally heated room, why would i then add water to it? obviously its working for some.
 
Unless I'm sanding bare wood (yes I have sanded to 12000MM on bare wood) I always use clean water and wipe down the project with a clean towel between each grit.

I believe the lubrication gives a smoother finish with each grit.
 
I haven't done any synthetics yet so all I can speak of us woods.

Haven't tried wet sanding at all, but I am struggling right now with a piece of Amboyna Burl that doesn't seem to want to achieve an 100% shiny coverage. I can get it about 90% but there always seems to be a spot I'm not happy with so I start over.

Maybe tonight I'll try wet sanding it and see how I like that.

Good thread, thanks for posting it.

TM
 
Originally posted by TowMater

I haven't done any synthetics yet so all I can speak of us woods.

Haven't tried wet sanding at all, but I am struggling right now with a piece of Amboyna Burl that doesn't seem to want to achieve an 100% shiny coverage. I can get it about 90% but there always seems to be a spot I'm not happy with so I start over.

Maybe tonight I'll try wet sanding it and see how I like that.

Good thread, thanks for posting it.

TM
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do wet sanding in this case if I were you.

The most likely cause of the dull spot is because all the CA was sanded off on those places/spots. Wet sanding will most likely introduce water to your blank that can cause more problems later.
 
I vote to leave the H2O out of the equation always. A quick wipe with dry cloth between grits and move on. If your building up enough heat to get it "hot", I guess I would not put so dang much pressure on it and let the grits do the work, not trying to melt it smooth. Just my opinion, take it, leave it, or tell me to go to *&^%. Your call.
 
Thought it was time to chime in.
Dry on bare wood, wet on all else. Wet on thick CA and synthetics gives me a far Superior finish.
Of course, as soon as I can pick up some buffing wheels, none of this will matter.[}:)]:D
 
Originally posted by stevers

Thought it was time to chime in.
Dry on bare wood, wet on all else. Wet on thick CA and synthetics gives me a far Superior finish.
Of course, as soon as I can pick up some buffing wheels, none of this will matter.[}:)]:D
Click to expand...

Yeah buddy! Soooo much faster and your(my) hand won't cramp up!:D
 
Dry all the time for me; all materials.

I tried wet for a few months and didn't see any improvment.
 
Originally posted by Dario

Originally posted by TowMater

I haven't done any synthetics yet so all I can speak of us woods.

Haven't tried wet sanding at all, but I am struggling right now with a piece of Amboyna Burl that doesn't seem to want to achieve an 100% shiny coverage. I can get it about 90% but there always seems to be a spot I'm not happy with so I start over.

Maybe tonight I'll try wet sanding it and see how I like that.

Good thread, thanks for posting it.

TM
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do wet sanding in this case if I were you.

The most likely cause of the dull spot is because all the CA was sanded off on those places/spots. Wet sanding will most likely introduce water to your blank that can cause more problems later.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, I never said they were dull spots, just spots on them that didn't match the perfect finish of the rest of the blank.

As it was, I didn't get down to the shop last night anyway, had to go pick up the daughters violin and then the kids wanted to make cookies and I got to "help" them clean up the kitchen[:p].

I'll keep that in mind about dull spots introducing water into the blank though.

TM
 
Dry, take off dust with DNA between grits, as you are sanding with dust until you do. But that's just me1
 
i'm totally wet! uuhhhh....let me rephrase that, i wet sand with wood and plastics. of course i don't wet sand bare wood, i wait till i get a couple of coats of CA then wet sand.
 
For years I used it wet on plastics, dry on wood. Some six month ago I totally switched to dry - less messy!! Just be careful not to get it too hot on plastics, and clean it often.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom