Mandrel question?

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wayneis

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How close do you put the tip of the live center to the end of the mandrel> The reason I ask is that Whenever I try to leave just a very very slight amount of room either the mandrel nut keeps backing off or there is a very annoing squeel and squeek. What I have resorted to doing, is to get the point close, turn on the lathe and move the tip closer just until the noise stops and lock it down. The problem is that the wood will be nice and even with the bushing on one side but excess wood on the other.

The other Question I have is, I have the Jet mini that I have to move the belt to change speeds. How tigtht should the belt be.

Wayne
 
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tipusnr

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I can't speak intelligently to the mandrel problem but I have a JET mini as well and was told by the manufacturer rep and several other turners that the weight of the motor will sufficiently tighten the belt.

Make sure that your lathe is clean around the motor so that it moves freely.
 

Doghouse

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Smithfield, VA, USA.
By no means am I an expert, but there should be enough pressure on the tip to keep the metal shaft from wandering, but not so much that it is flexing. If you have the ability to check runout with a dial guage, set it to touch the mandrel's shaft, then tighten as usual. You will be able to see if you are pushing it too far and bowing the shaft.
 

ilikewood

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Twin Falls, ID, USA.
Have you tried just a tiny dab of grease on the end of you live center? Like it was said, it should be fairly snug but not snug enough to flex the mandrel. If not snug, it may squeal (but sometimes you may need to run like this), so just a dab of grease will quiet it down.

There has also been some discussion already on "lop-sided" turning and it could be the result of several things:
-too tight mandrel nut
-mandrel is slightly bent
-un-squared blanks
-etc.

I think the most recent discussion is in the squaring of the blanks. There has been some excellent advice given over in that discussion.

Bill in Idaho
 

daledut

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Swanton, Ohio, USA.
If the nut is backing itself off, that is a sure sign that the mandrel rod is not straight. I would highly recomend that you visit Russ' site and look at the tips for truing up your lathe and mandrel. If I remember right it is a side bar of the Slimeline tutotial.

I usually move my tailstock up until it just barely touches, then turn on the lathe and push the tail stock in until it seeks its own center. Then lock it down. I test it again, and only apply enough pressure to spin the live center.

Also don't tighten you nut until after the tailstock is engaged. This helps keep you from torqueing the madrel out of line as you tighten. Again here you want just enough pressure to keep the blanks from spinning as you try to cut.
 

tipusnr

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Really like the ideas on Russ' site. Can't wait to try his Russ Pen. Like the other two as well but not into making custom mandrels at this point.
 

debturnswood

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i can not get enough to read about what russ is saying. it it is all so informative. thanks for pointing me in the right direction.[:I]
 

Andy Ryan

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Mansfield, oh, USA.
Wayne, See russ's web site www.woodturner-russ.com/pen10html.

he talks about truing the mandrel. among other helpful hints.
or see Bill Baumbeck at arisona silloutte. not sure of his web address, he has a vidio that is really good that you may consider purchasing.

good luck
andy




Originally posted by wayneis
<br />How close do you put the tip of the live center to the end of the mandrel&gt; The reason I ask is that Whenever I try to leave just a very very slight amount of room either the mandrel nut keeps backing off or there is a very annoing squeel and squeek. What I have resorted to doing, is to get the point close, turn on the lathe and move the tip closer just until the noise stops and lock it down. The problem is that the wood will be nice and even with the bushing on one side but excess wood on the other.

Wayne
 
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