Lots of sanding and other questions

[Dario]

I am planning on using lacquer on my later pens and preparing for some potential problems. Maybe I shouldn't be worried on some actually .

1) I am using mylands cellulose sanding sealer...when should I apply it? After the blank is sanded to 12000 MM or better to stop say at 4000, apply sealer then sand again?

2) I will be using Mylands melamine lacquer. How long do I need to let the finish cure before sanding?

3) What do you use for wet sanding? I am planning on using plain cooking oil unless you guys advise me not to.

4) I have Micromesh but, what grit should I start sanding cured lacquer from?

5) What is the equivalent of 2000 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper on micromesh?

6) What do you use to apply lacquer...brush, cloth, paper towel, etc?

7) Do you apply lacquer on lathe with wood spinning or is it okay to wipe it on while on a rack?

Thank you guys!!!

 

[Dario]

I remembered Russ Fairfield's article to I re-read it and some of my question are answered []

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />I am planning on using lacquer on my later pens and preparing for some potential problems. Maybe I shouldn't be worried on some actually [].

1) I am using mylands cellulose sanding sealer...when should I apply it? After the blank is sanded to 12000 MM or better to stop say at 4000, apply sealer then sand again?

Put your sanding sealer on before you start your Micro-mesh. I usually put it on after 400, then re-sand most of it off with 400 before moving on to Micro-mesh.

2) I will be using Mylands melamine lacquer. How long do I need to let the finish cure before sanding?

I wait 2 days after my final coat of lacquer before I do any polishing or buffing.

3) What do you use for wet sanding? I am planning on using plain cooking oil unless you guys advise me not to.

I'm not sure you need to wet sand after your Melamine lacquer. I dry sand with Micro-mesh only.

4) I have Micromesh but, what grit should I start sanding cured lacquer from?

I start at 6000. Of rare occasion I have to drop back to 4000.

5) What is the equivalent of 2000 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper on micromesh?

6) What do you use to apply lacquer...brush, cloth, paper towel, etc?

I apply lacquer by hand with a soft, lint-free cloth and never with the lathe running.

7) Do you apply lacquer on lathe with wood spinning or is it okay to wipe it on while on a rack?

Thank you guys!!!

This is just "my" way. Others will have systems that work well, I'm sure. [8D]

 

[Old Griz]

This is my system for lacquer ... works for me.. may or may not work for you..

1) I am using mylands cellulose sanding sealer...when should I apply it? After the blank is sanded to 12000 MM or better to stop say at 4000, apply sealer then sand again?
I sand to at least 6000 then apply cellulose sanding sealer (2 light coats) then sand that from 6000-1200MM dry

2) I will be using Mylands melamine lacquer. How long do I need to let the finish cure before sanding?
I let all my lacquer finishes cure for at least 5 days or longer 6-7 is even better... lacquer needs to cure.. enduro can be done in a 2 day process...

3) What do you use for wet sanding? I am planning on using plain cooking oil unless you guys advise me not to.
I don't use MM on the lacquer topcoat at all.. I use automotive polishing compound on a very damp tshirt followed by automotive antiswirl cream or plastic polish. Add some water to the polishing compound to create a slurry

4) I have Micromesh but, what grit should I start sanding cured lacquer from?
See Above

5) What is the equivalent of 2000 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper on micromesh?
See Above

6) What do you use to apply lacquer...brush, cloth, paper towel, etc?
I generally use Deft spray lacquer... I have not had great success applying lacquer with any other manner

7) Do you apply lacquer on lathe with wood spinning or is it okay to wipe it on while on a rack?
I apply the lacquer with the lathe at it's slowest speed. I usually apply 4 coats over a 45 minute period (depending on heat and humidity) then take it off when dry to the touch and put the blank on a rack to cure..

 

[Dario]

Lou & Tom,

Thanks for sharing all these info.

 

[scturner]

Dario,

I'll try to help if I can. For some background, About a year ago I started out using Mylands stuff and while it's good stuff I found I liked the Sanding sealer but not the Melamine lacquer. It seemed to start curing very quick when I'd put it on the piece on the lathe. I got tired of that so I gave up on both of those altogether, not to mention the smell of the lacquer was just terrible to me. Now days I use Hut friction polish, 3 coats, sanded lightly between coats with TSW as the top coat. Anyways, here how I go about the process.

1. Apply the SS or friction polish or whatever "after" all the sanding is finished. On wood,I only go to 600 grit wet/dry papper, clean the wood, then apply the finish. Micro mesh down to 12000 on wood dosen't seem to do much better really than the 600 grit. I feel I get just as good a finish with that. Of course you should experiment with it. I always go to 12000 MM on acylics, resins etc.

2. I would apply the lacquer with a brush on the piece with the lathe off, just brush it on, always remove the excess or it'll sling all over your shop.. trust me! Then using about 2 papper towels burn the finish into the wood, much like a friction polish. Then wait 20- 30 min and lightly sand, repeat again for 3 times.

Hummm? I personally don't wet sand wood only dry sand it then clean it up good with a papper towel to remove any residual dust. I do however wet sand acylics, plastics and resins with MM down to 12000. I keep a spritzer bottle in the shop and lightly wet each MM pad to sand those.

4. Sorry, I don't think I get that one.

5. That's really up there. Not sure on that one. I only go to 600 wet/dry on wood, 12000 MM on plastics.

6. The best thing I've ever found is cheap "chip brushes". You can get them very cheap at Lowes, Home Depot and Harbor Freight. I think Northern Tools has them too. You can get a case (24) at Harbor Freight for about $4.00- 5.00.

7. Definately not with the lathe on! I turn the lathe off, then dip the brush in the finish and wipe it on the piece and allow it to soak up as much as it wants. Then, with the lathe still off, rotate the handwheel to slowly turn the piece, I use papper towels to remove all excess finish, then turn on the lathe and start burning in the finish into the wood. That's what you want any finish to do.. burn it in.
You can do all this stuff directly on the lathe.

[]These as just my steps and you'll certainly hear many different ways of doing things. These are only what I've found work time after time for me.

Good luck!

 

[goodwood]

OK David thanks for that great suggestion but please take out the alphabet shortcuts. There are so many possibilities we need a breakdown. Thanks again Harry