Long holes in blanks that don't wander

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Bob Roehrig

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Aug 11, 2015
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Having a few problems of late in using longer 6" Aircraft 1/8" twist drills for drilling holes deep into long blanks. Most of the time they go in straight. Sometimes as happened today, I was using some Zebra 3/4" blanks and the holes wandered to one side or another and did not stay straight. I'm now attributing this to the drill following the grain pattern but am not sure. I've ruined several long blanks with this happening. Would love to hear a sure fire method of drilling these longer holes using a lathe if anyone would like to comment.
 
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6" long is pretty 'long' and suspectible to wandering. I would drill a thinner hole, then step up to the final diameter. That being said... I suspect the real culprit is the blank grain. For that, good luck, the bit will go where it has least resistance. I agree with JT: Meet in the middle if possible. Been there...
 
6" of 1/8" diameter is a massive amount of chances for flex in the drill bit. If you don't want to try drilling from both ends, I'd try doing the process in steps with shorter bits first. A shorter bit will be more rigid and give the longer bit less chances to deflect for the initial length.

I'd also crank the speed up as much as possible and peck the hole, but I'm not the safest or smartest person in the world lol.
 
mark james said:
6" long is pretty 'long' and suspectible to wandering. I would drill a thinner hole, then step up to the final diameter. That being said... I suspect the real culprit is the blank grain. For that, good luck, the bit will go where it has least resistance. I agree with JT: Meet in the middle if possible. Been there...
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Have thought about that, but a hole on the opposite end would not be my choice since then I would have to think about trying to Plug such a small hole. Think I'll just avoid "grainy" woods since my other efforts went very well. Has to be the Zebra Wood I believe.
 
Not disregarding anyone's advice, but see if these folks can help. Drills I would call them. I buy all my bits from them (Norseman).

I would also spray Bostik Blade and Bit coat on the bit before each plunge.
 
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Odd question, but is this for pen making? Why 1/8" diameter? A while back, I bought a long 1/4" (or was it 7mm?) drill bit for long blanks.
 
I am making "Stick Pens". For the ink refills I take apart the cheap Bic Crystal pens which only cost probably under 12 cents per refill. An 1/8" drill bit is needed to drill the 5 1/2" hole into the wood for the refill insertion. There are several decent YouTube video's available on how to make these.....Super Easy and quick and they look great. My scrap box of exotic woods now gets used up.
 
I drill everything on the lathe and found a center drill invaluable for starting holes. No flex in them at all.

Harbor freight sells a set for maybe 15.00
 
Center drills are great for starting holes, but they are only used for starts and do center nicely for followups with ones longer drill bit. I have to go in 5 1/2" and depending on the wood, many times these long drill bits do catche stubborn bits of grain which can throw it off course a bit. 1/8" drill bits are very flexible when they run between 6 and 12 inches in length. One must "nibble" away slowly and clear chips often in order to keep it on the straight and narrow. Depending on the kind of wood, this can be difficult. Just part of the challange and I'm learning things to help deal with this.
 
Disclaimer: I have not done this (yet)!

If I were to attempt this, I would, using a pen jaw chuck (2 or 4 jaws), turn one end of the blank to round (if not round material already), switch the chuck to a collet chuck, flip the blank around and hold the rounded end in the collet chuck and then turn the remainder to round. Then mark the ends for centers, and still using the collet chuck, center drill and drill from each end.
 
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