Loctite the mechanism?

[johngmccune]

I have a problem sometimes that no matter how tightly I think I'm screwing the mechanism in, after the pen is fully assembled and used for a while, it becomes tricky to advance and retract the nib. I can usually get it to work be squeezing in just the right place, but it occurs to me that perhaps if I used Loctate (or something) on the threads of the mechanism when I'm screwing it in, I wouldn't have this problem. I can't THINK of a reason not to do this, but I thought I'd ask for your thoughts and comments. Thanks.

 

[johngmccune]

Loctite

 

[its_virgil]

Pen kit?

 

[duncsuss]

It can depend on the pen kit as not all mechanisms are the same, but I have used thread lock on some Sierra kits where you twist the entire barrel to extend and retract the tip. (I prefer the varieties where you twist a push-on button at the end of the pen instead of the barrel because there's less chance of the mechanism coming unscrewed and getting stuck inside the barrel.)

 

[johngmccune]

Pen kit?

sierra for sure

 

[Darios]

sierra for sure

I use blue loctite on the barrel ends, but apply it with a whip in tiny amounts and I run a patch through the barrel afterwards. I found out the hard way that loctite is mildly corrosive. It does add difficulty if you ever have to disassemble, especially if any gets on the plastic threads of rollerball kits.

 

[ZanderPommo]

I use red (permanent) locktite on press fit pen parts. I do this because years ago I got tired of cracking finished pens on assembly. I use a chainsaw file inside the tube until the parts press in with much less pressure, not NO pressure, but nothing that would cause cracking. Then I run a small bead of locktite around the inside of the brass tube, then press fit. I no longer hear that infamous "click" that means my project is ruined.

I use blue locktite occasionally for parts that want to back out. Happens occasionally on different parts on different kits. No biggie, just put a drop of BLUE locktite on the male threads and let the part air dry for a day or so BEFORE screwing it in. This stops you from using too much, and having it run places it shouldn't. You'll feel the part binding much better when you screw in the part.