Madman1978
Member
One of the most frustrating things I have learned thus far in this "money pit" is that there are far too many gouges! I just purchased a bowl gouge set. However, what's with all the other gouges? lol
Lets talk Bowl Gouges!
- Thread starter Madman1978
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Mr Vic
Member
Different styles and uses for bowl gouges. without seeing it's hard to tell. Could possibly include spindle gouges.
There are gouges for roughing. Gouges for outside wood removal. Gouges for outside finishing cuts. Gouges for internal hollowing and wood removal. Gouges for bottom wood removal and cleanup. Gouges for internal finishing, especially for getting around tight curves if you are turning something more vessel like, than simply open bowl.
You've heard the saying: Use the right tool for the job!
I have a number of bowl gouges. Near on two years ago now, when I first started, I had your basic 40/40 bowl gouge. I couldn't fathom why there were so many. I now have the 40/40, Ellsworth, several finishing gouges, something called the "bottom feeder", etc. I also actually have several different kinds of scrapers, including round nosed, french, with and without negative rakes. Also have a special box scraper that makes it easier to hollow out boxes with strait walls and a flat bottom. Every tool, they all serve their purpose, and using the right tool for the right part of the bowl at the right time...does make it easier to turn, turn well, and turn with a superb finish (even before sanding).
And, that's just for bowls and vessels! I've got a variety of spindle gouges as well, and each of those serve their purpose!
You've heard the saying: Use the right tool for the job!
I have a number of bowl gouges. Near on two years ago now, when I first started, I had your basic 40/40 bowl gouge. I couldn't fathom why there were so many. I now have the 40/40, Ellsworth, several finishing gouges, something called the "bottom feeder", etc. I also actually have several different kinds of scrapers, including round nosed, french, with and without negative rakes. Also have a special box scraper that makes it easier to hollow out boxes with strait walls and a flat bottom. Every tool, they all serve their purpose, and using the right tool for the right part of the bowl at the right time...does make it easier to turn, turn well, and turn with a superb finish (even before sanding).
And, that's just for bowls and vessels! I've got a variety of spindle gouges as well, and each of those serve their purpose!
howsitwork
Member
Ah but have you found the "perfect grind" yet??
As said loads of gouges with different profiles of steel and grind but you get used to ones you like. I'm still trying to get my spindle gouges to the right profile for some work. Fun learning though
As said loads of gouges with different profiles of steel and grind but you get used to ones you like. I'm still trying to get my spindle gouges to the right profile for some work. Fun learning though
montmill
Member
Been there, done that, bought the shirt. I'm just one tool from greatness syndrome. Guilty as charged. Technique, not tool. Of course now others are getting deals as I sell all the "must have tools" that have accumulated through the years. How to become great ? Stand in front of a lathe and - turn, turn, turn.
SteveG
Member
While we are at it, let's no forget to mention the Thompson fluteless gouges. They have quite a following.
Madman1978
Member
Please enlighten me on that type.
Madman1978
Member
Not really that hard. what types are there and why are they called that type?
I tried to research a sweptback bowl gouge not much luck lol
howsitwork
Member
well that's really a specific grind , not a type of gouge. To do this you grind along the sides of the gouge forming sharp wings which you can then use to do certain cuts. It easier to consistently form this profile with a jig.
this might help ?
SteveG
Member
The Fluteless Gouge is true to its name: cutting the upper surface (cutting surface) ground completely flat, like a scraper. But it IS a gouge, in that the cross section of the bottom part of the shaft is circular. This means you can easily rotate the gouge to achieve a shearing cut, with the contact point of the shaft-to-tool rest being directly below the cutting point of the tool. There are a number of videos showing desirable properties of this design. The basic concept and design has been around for years.
Look for Ellsworth or Irish Grind. They are swept back gouges. I have an Ellsworth gouge myself, and its quite useful for taking off lots of wood quickly, and is excellent for sheer scraping platter outsides and the like.
flairwoodworks
Member
I use a "Ellsworth" type grind on my 1/2" bowl gouge, which is my largest bowl gouge.
Nobody mentioned gouges for wallets yet...
Oh, they definitely gouged my wallet!I use a "Ellsworth" type grind on my 1/2" bowl gouge, which is my largest bowl gouge.
Nobody mentioned gouges for wallets yet...
I've spent well over a grand on hand tools alone, more than half of those are gouges. 
Madman1978
Member
TellicoTurning
Member
I really don't know one grind from another on my bowl gouges... my take is find one you like, practice, practice and practice with it until it does what you want and go with it. I use a Hurricane 5/8" most of the time... it is set at 60 degress on the raptor and slightly swept back.... I use it for about 90% of my turnings, which is mostly pepper mills and bowls.... once I have a bowl hollowed to near my liking, I'll do a little scraping with either a carbide cutter or a regular round nose... just my take and works for me.... YMMV
donstephan
Member
The are three shapes of bowl gouges - U, V, and parabolic - and several sizes of bowl gouge - 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, . . .
40-40, bottom feeder, . . . are shapes of the tip/nose.
Madman1978
Member
Bottom Feeder? My Ex-Wife isn't here!