Lets Revisit Carbide Inserts

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jttheclockman

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I do not remember who it was that talked about carbide inserts and the optimum angle. But I will ask as a general question if you happen to know. what the difference is in carbide cutters and different angles of the blades?? What would be the best use of each or is there a chart somewhere??? Where are you currently getting your inserts from and are you satisfied or are you looking for more??? I tried at one time to get a read on inserts designed especially for metals but could not get enough info that I understood to make educated buy. Thanks for your time.
 
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Current (machinist) opinion is that optimum cutting angles for wood have a side relief of 15-20 degrees, end relief of 20 degrees, and a side rake of 30 degrees.

This might help a little:

https://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm

The other thing to know is Big Guy Productions sells just about any carbide that's useful for penturners: Big Guy Productions - *

For me the biggest problem with carbide tools is the cost of handles so I make my own. My most used tool is 3/8" dia. I'm wanting to try the R2 and a square one as a bedan.
 
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30 degree is the optimal angle for carbide cutters as they relate to pen turning(wood, acrylic). Different when talking about metals.
 
John -- there are two different styles of carbide inserts

the flat top (in a few different shapes)

Cup style cutters such as sold by Hunter Tools.

Hunter uses a 27 degree edge on a circular cutter with a bevel.

I use the hunter style more than the flat top -- especially with chippy acrylics.
 
John -- there are two different styles of carbide inserts

the flat top (in a few different shapes)

Cup style cutters such as sold by Hunter Tools.

Hunter uses a 27 degree edge on a circular cutter with a bevel.

I use the hunter style more than the flat top -- especially with chippy acrylics.

Good to know Ken.
 
I use the EWT R2 as my main tool. Since all I turn is pens, it works great for me. I do have a small round carbide that I pull out occasionally depending on the shaping I do on the pen.

Pay way too much for my cutter blades. Thanks to TurtleTom's post, I may be ordering some from Big Guy Productions soon...
 
Remember carbide cutter blades can be EASILY sharpened, it will take you longer to remove the blades than it will to run then over a flat stone. I have EWT and Capt eddies blades and they both sharpen to a new edge, and will last 50 to 100 pens, between sharpenings. The R2 style is also my choice of cutter for wood and acrylic blanks.
 
Remember carbide cutter blades can be EASILY sharpened, it will take you longer to remove the blades than it will to run then over a flat stone. I have EWT and Capt eddies blades and they both sharpen to a new edge, and will last 50 to 100 pens, between sharpenings. The R2 style is also my choice of cutter for wood and acrylic blanks.

Is the R2 a sharpenable cutter. It looks like it has 2 radii (yes that's spelled correctly) going 2 ways and I was wondering how hard that is to sharpen. I want to try one of these.
 
To sharpen the carbide cutters (any of them with a flat top surface), just place it upside down on your diamond stone, and move it around.

That's just the point, I don't think the R2 has a flat top.


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Metal cutters

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Here's the one from Big Guy Productions. Doesn't look like a flat top does it?

It does to me

I think it is just the light source. Not sure why it looks like it was burnt up or something. Think you would want a better photo than that. Those are the type (not the source) that I use.
 
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Here's the one from Big Guy Productions. Doesn't look like a flat top does it?

It does to me

I think it is just the light source. Not sure why it looks like it was burnt up or something. Think you would want a better photo than that. Those are the type (not the source) that I use.

I messaged Big Guy Productions. Whenever I get a reply I'll post it here. Get the facts right, right?:biggrin::biggrin:
 
Eddie is a little under the weather lately but all of his cutters are flat topped, I never touch the bevels on mine. Unless you really know what your doing you could screw it up.
 
Here's the one from Big Guy Productions. Doesn't look like a flat top does it?

It does to me

I think it is just the light source. Not sure why it looks like it was burnt up or something. Think you would want a better photo than that. Those are the type (not the source) that I use.

I messaged Big Guy Productions. Whenever I get a reply I'll post it here. Get the facts right, right?:biggrin::biggrin:

I just can not see why they would be anything other. I have never seen a convex top cutter. ( maybe they do make them) All his other cutters are flat top and i am sure he gets all from the same source. Just different shapes.

Do you happen to know what the specs are on his cutters??? The angles??? Are they listed anywhere???
 
Not had much time lately, but I have played with a couple of carbide insert styles I use in the machine shop. Most are just not going to work for wood turning because of their edge and little to no relief angle. I have one or two that were a bit more of a positive rake type, and they worked fair on plastic, not well at all on wood. I have one round insert that has about a 10 degree or so relief that worked decent. So all that to say putting metal cutting inserts on hand held tools just ain't where it's at :). My favorite turning tool is a home made one, with a 1/4 by 1/2 by 6 inch long flat HSS that I ground a radius on the end and clearance underneath. Am going to be looking into the inserts you all mentioned above to test for myself soon.
 
I'm an ex machinist myself and my old carbide tools are not suited for woodwork either. But the ones I got from Cap'n Eddie work extremely well. I have 12mm and 18 mm but I use the 12 the most.
I contacted Cap'n Eddie and if it's not my sense of distance it's my eyes, the R2 is indeed a flat top which means I'll be getting some. I want to try one of the square one as a bedan, don't know how well that will work but we'll see.
 
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