LazerLinez Raven Anyone?

[vtgaryw]

Has anyone made any of these yet? I really wanted to make and sell more LazerLinez pens, but I was so disappointed in thread quality I had to stop selling them.

I'd love to go back to featuring a made in the USA SS component set if the new threads are good. Even a mini-review would be good.

Thanks,

Gary

 

[TonyL]

I just received mine today at noon.

 

[SteveG]

I have a significant number of the Lazerlines stainless cap pen kits (old style) on hand and agree that the threads are way below par. Rather than set that batch of kits aside and try to ignore a bad investment, I came up with a fix. It takes two separate fixes actually.
1. Turn and drill an "alignment tube" (of some scrap piece of acrylic) that fits snugly in the cap tube, and gets pushed in by the threaded coupler when it is pressed in. The "alignment tube" inside diameter is sized to keep the pen front end aligned at the critical point when starting to screw the cap on. (No help for posting the cap.)
2. I use valve grinding compound to relax and smooth the cap threads for a smoother feel.

These two steps add to the build time for these kits, but makes the finished pen be a salable product that I am willing to put on my sales table, and to put on my reputation as a quality pen turner.

I am indeed looking forward to the new design, that actually comes with quality threads. In the mean time, I will keep doing these 2 "fix it" steps until the existing kit inventory is made and sold.

 

[stuckinohio]

I just received mine today at noon.

Pictures please! I'm anxious for mine. It takes forever for standard mail from Georgia to Ohio:frown:

 

[TonyL]

Do you want me to complete a pen or do you just what a photo of the parts?

 

[jcm71]

I just received mine today at noon.

Your Alpharetta to Alpharetta mail service must be phenomenal. :big grin: I'm just 100 miles up the road and haven't rcvd mine yet.

 

[WalkOn]

I have a significant number of the Lazerlines stainless cap pen kits (old style) on hand and agree that the threads are way below par. Rather than set that batch of kits aside and try to ignore a bad investment, I came up with a fix. It takes two separate fixes actually.
1. Turn and drill an "alignment tube" (of some scrap piece of acrylic) that fits snugly in the cap tube, and gets pushed in by the threaded coupler when it is pressed in. The "alignment tube" inside diameter is sized to keep the pen front end aligned at the critical point when starting to screw the cap on. (No help for posting the cap.)
2. I use valve grinding compound to relax and smooth the cap threads for a smoother feel.

These two steps add to the build time for these kits, but makes the finished pen be a salable product that I am willing to put on my sales table, and to put on my reputation as a quality pen turner.

I am indeed looking forward to the new design, that actually comes with quality threads. In the mean time, I will keep doing these 2 "fix it" steps until the existing kit inventory is made and sold.

Hey Steve,

Is there any chance you could post a picture of what your fix looks like? Having a hard time visualizing how this works.

Thanks, Kev

 

[TonyL]

So basically it becomes a friction or pressure fit?

 

[SteveG]

Per the request for pictures of my "fix" posted earlier in this thread...

I will get a pic up and posted if I can find the part I fabricate. A picture is worth lots and lots of words. :biggrin::wink:



Edit in: I have created a thread in the "Penturning" forum to explain my solution to the poor thread performance.

 

[stuckinohio]

Do you want me to complete a pen or do you just what a photo of the parts?

Never mind. I got mine today, which was very surprising!

I am curious about the bushings though. Do I use the Jr style bushings? I thought it was going to come with bushings?

I ordered three sets of bushings and got three sets. One of the sets I ordered was a set for the Jr series, and I got that, but technically I should have gotten four sets correct?

Also, I see it uses a strange drill bit for the lower, so I'll scrounge that up.

 

[TonyL]

Spoke to Constant today about assembly and the odd lower barrel drill size (via texting). 13/32nd equates to 10.5mm, However, I used the 13/32nd drill per his online description and it felt a little too "roomy" (hole was a tiny bit big). Jr Gent II takes a 12.5 and 10.5 mm bit. I just glued-up two pens using epoxy to fill any gaps....hopefully the tubes will center. The "12.5mm" tubes fit fine using the 12.5mm drill. I didn't drill the barrels on my lathe, so it may have been an issue with my drill press with respect to the lower barrels. We shall see. I received what I ordered: 4 kits and a free set of bushings.

Constant did write me with respect to the drill sizes that it takes Jr drills - one can assume Jr bushings, but I plan to use the ones in my order. I will use my calipers to make sure all the ODs are right.

The Raven does not use Jr Gent Bushings. It uses Jr Gent tubes. I, not Constant, wrongly stated the use of Jr Gent bushings. I misunderstood.

 

[stuckinohio]

Thanks for the reply. I'll measure them also tomorrow. I was at work with no calipers!

 

[stuckinohio]

I measured my raven components today. They are not the same size as the Jr. Gent II. They are:

Top cap - .595
Center Cap Coupler - .595
End cap - .500
Nib - .500

Constant was very responsive and is sending out bushings today for the raven

Thank you Constant. I appreciate it.

 

[Neil]

I have received mine on Sat, I think I'll use some Burl wood

 

[wolftat]

I have a significant number of the Lazerlines stainless cap pen kits (old style) on hand and agree that the threads are way below par. Rather than set that batch of kits aside and try to ignore a bad investment, I came up with a fix. It takes two separate fixes actually.
1. Turn and drill an "alignment tube" (of some scrap piece of acrylic) that fits snugly in the cap tube, and gets pushed in by the threaded coupler when it is pressed in. The "alignment tube" inside diameter is sized to keep the pen front end aligned at the critical point when starting to screw the cap on. (No help for posting the cap.)
2. I use valve grinding compound to relax and smooth the cap threads for a smoother feel.

These two steps add to the build time for these kits, but makes the finished pen be a salable product that I am willing to put on my sales table, and to put on my reputation as a quality pen turner.

I am indeed looking forward to the new design, that actually comes with quality threads. In the mean time, I will keep doing these 2 "fix it" steps until the existing kit inventory is made and sold.

Hi Steve,
Have you spoken with Constant about the issue of your threads? I have always found him to be easy to talk to and willing to correct an issue if he can. Give him a call, he's a very nice person.
Neil

 

[skiprat]

Neil, I was thinking the same thing. The 'fix' seems simple enough.....a plastic sleeve to ensure the nib is central before the threads engage. This is actually a feature on several kit pens that does the same thing. In fact it seems quite common on several branded pens too.

I would have thought that Constant would have churned out loads of these sleeves and free issued them if he knew of the issue.

 

[corgicoupe]

Do you want me to complete a pen or do you just what a photo of the parts?

Never mind. I got mine today, which was very surprising!

I am curious about the bushings though. Do I use the Jr style bushings? I thought it was going to come with bushings?

I ordered three sets of bushings and got three sets. One of the sets I ordered was a set for the Jr series, and I got that, but technically I should have gotten four sets correct?

Also, I see it uses a strange drill bit for the lower, so I'll scrounge that up.

The difference between 13/32" and 10.5mm is insignificant, so I used the 10.5mm with no problem. If you use a vernier caliper on the tube calling for the 10.5mm drill, it measures 13/32". I'm guessing it depends on the units used by the manufacturer. Constant was more precise and mixed his units. (I need to go back and measure the diameter of the tube calling for 12.5mm. )

 

[SteveG]

Neil, I was thinking the same thing. The 'fix' seems simple enough.....a plastic sleeve to ensure the nib is central before the threads engage. This is actually a feature on several kit pens that does the same thing. In fact it seems quite common on several branded pens too.

I would have thought that Constant would have churned out loads of these sleeves and free issued them if he knew of the issue.

Skippy, I agree with the need to address the poor threads, and how appropriate it would be for a "fix" to be provided to those holding the kits with those sub-par threads. Constant is aware of the issue, in that he has redesigned the threads on the existing series of "Capped" pen kits to address the issue. Note his post in his forum from 10-29-2015:

Constant: "I have been working on this for a while on and off but had to get it done sooner than later.

Her are a few renderings.

The last photo is the actual pen that I have made today. I am making the cap section now and will also post that shortly.

The new ACME triple lead treads works great and we are very happy with it.
We think this is a great improvement on the look and feel of the pen.

These threads will be available for the Eagle , Desire and a new kit that will be available also."

 

[Constant Laubscher]

Neil, I was thinking the same thing. The 'fix' seems simple enough.....a plastic sleeve to ensure the nib is central before the threads engage. This is actually a feature on several kit pens that does the same thing. In fact it seems quite common on several branded pens too.

I would have thought that Constant would have churned out loads of these sleeves and free issued them if he knew of the issue.

The " plastic sleeve" is not going to work with the old kits. I have also started off thinking it would be a quick fix but end up remaking every part but the clip.