Lathe-drilling is now kicking my tuchus

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
P

PaulSF

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
286
Location
San Francisco
Well, I'm trying. I have the blank turned round into a 3/4-inch cylinder, fit into a collet chuck. I've got the drill chuck mounted in the tailstock. I'm following that excellent tutorial from Keith Larrett. But the drill bit just doesn't want to go into the wood. I'm wondering if the drill bit is the weak link? Is there a brand and kind of drill bit for this that is superior to all others?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
All bits are not created equal. There are many good ones out there, I prefer Norseman, others will prefer something different. Do some readingh and decide for yourself. Now even a crappy bit should drill at least a crappy hole in most woods. What kind of wood are you drilling? Go through step by step your entire prodedure from after you mount the blank until you are having troubles, it will be easier to decipher the issue. Try using some softer woods and see if the issue continues.
 
This is a redwood burl.

The bit I'm using worked on my drill press last night, except that the drill press wanders off to the left as it drills through.

I did get a norseman bit recently that cut like a laser through butter, but that was using my drill press. It's not the right bit size for this project, but I was thinking of buying a few more of their bits.
 
I'm at a slow speed, around 500 rpm. I've got the tightener for the quill turned pretty tight, and I'm turning the wheel on the quill.
 
PaulSF said:
I'm at a slow speed, around 500 rpm. I've got the tightener for the quill turned pretty tight, and I'm turning the wheel on the quill.
Click to expand...


I think that is your problem. I don't think you should have that tightened, but the tailstock to the lathe should be. You can apply pressure to the top of the quill with your hand while drilling. Can you somewhat move the drill chuck freely in and out or is it not moving at all.? If it is not moving, feel free to try what I suggested. Otherwise, disregard it.


VisExp suggest this on page 4 of his tutorial, not having the quill tightener really tight, just somewhat tight.
 
Last edited:
PaulSF said:
This is a redwood burl.

The bit I'm using worked on my drill press last night, except that the drill press wanders off to the left as it drills through.

I did get a norseman bit recently that cut like a laser through butter, but that was using my drill press. It's not the right bit size for this project, but I was thinking of buying a few more of their bits.
Click to expand...

I drooled over a complete set of Norseman bits... About $400+ but settled on a good set of Cleveland & Latrobe.

If the bit wanders, that is a good indication that it is dull or otherwise bad. A Drill Doctor (DD) is a good investment. There are only two kinds of people, those who swear BY the DD, and those that swear AT the DD. :smile:
If you go this route, read the instructions carefully and follow the process without skipping any steps.

Just yesterday, I threw out a drill bit. I realized it was not running true, so out it went!
 
I was having similar problems, then I held the back end of the chuck with the bit. It seems the bit was turning and the wood was turning and nothing was drilling LOL. Maybe it's something that simple, it was for me. If not, than I have no idea.

Jennifer
 
I have had that problem (the bit wandering) when drilling spongy spalted maple on the drill press. It's almost like there isn't enough to get a bite on... and most likely it was also a dull bit :confused:
On the lathe the problem I have run into is the #2 morse taper drill chuck won't stay in the tailstock (It won't "seat" well enough). I have now started to use a drawbar to hold it. Of course that means I have to advance the drill by sliding along the ways. I hold the locking lever to keep as little slack as possible and apply pressure to the end of the tailstock, sliding it forward. Not ideal but wayyy better than having the drill stuck in the blank and rotating around inside the tailstock! :eek:
 
Pioneerpens said:
I was having similar problems, then I held the back end of the chuck with the bit. It seems the bit was turning and the wood was turning and nothing was drilling LOL. Maybe it's something that simple, it was for me. If not, than I have no idea.

Jennifer
Click to expand...

That really seems to be what's going on. Everything is spinning. Either the blank should spin, or the drill bit should spin, but everything? It makes my head spin!! :eek:
 
Lenny said:
I have had that problem (the bit wandering) when drilling spongy spalted maple on the drill press. It's almost like there isn't enough to get a bite on... and most likely it was also a dull bit :confused:
On the lathe the problem I have run into is the #2 morse taper drill chuck won't stay in the tailstock (It won't "seat" well enough). I have now started to use a drawbar to hold it. Of course that means I have to advance the drill by sliding along the ways. I hold the locking lever to keep as little slack as possible and apply pressure to the end of the tailstock, sliding it forward. Not ideal but wayyy better than having the drill stuck in the blank and rotating around inside the tailstock! :eek:
Click to expand...
It should not take that much pressure to keep the MT@ snug and not spinning. A clean MT2 and a clean race to insert it in should grip more than sufficiently with minimal back pressure.
 
Give it a try, you haven't got anything to lose. Just hold at the base of the drill chuck and turn your bit in at the same time. Let me know if it works.
 
If you are using a drill bit bigger than 7mm or so, try drilling a pilot hole first. This may stop your drill from wandering off centre as it starts to cut into the blank.

Jim
 
ok, this may put me at risk of being seen at the bottom of the Stupid-Pit, but is the problem because the tailstock drill chuck is a live drill chuck?
 
hunter-27 said:
It should not take that much pressure to keep the MT@ snug and not spinning. A clean MT2 and a clean race to insert it in should grip more than sufficiently with minimal back pressure.
Click to expand...

Just like any #2 morse taper center SHOULD fit into a #2 MT headstock without having to be "shortened" ... but there are actually exceptions to every rule. :wink:

Your point however is not lost on me and I will try cleaning my taper and see if it will seat better!

Thanks!
 
OY. And there aren't any women up there wearing mini-skirts with no undies, either!

I guess even the really good tutorials may take too much for granted!
 
Is this a mini-lathe? Generally they (my Jet, at least) don't accept a full-length MT accessory into the tailstock. If the chuck doesn't seat firmly, it's going to spin.
 
jeff said:
Is this a mini-lathe? Generally they (my Jet, at least) don't accept a full-length MT accessory into the tailstock. If the chuck doesn't seat firmly, it's going to spin.
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly! I suspected as much ... although it hasn't been a problem for my other centers (60 degree etc.)

I think you have confirmed my suspicions. :smile:
Thanks!
 
fernhills said:
For the MT mandrel to seat in the tail stock the quill has to be extended some, otherwise it will spin in the quill. Maybe thats it.. Carl
Click to expand...

Nope. I mean yes it has to be extended some, but No ... I know enough to do that. It is an issue with the older Jet mini's (I think) :smile:

Thanks though!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom