Lathe Bed Cleaning
- Thread starter TonyL
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Dan Masshardt
Member
I wipe mine down with either mineral oil or a squirt of wd 40 and apply paste wax.
If you turned the stuff I turn at times, green bowls, you'd be cleaning more often than you do.
;-)
If you turned the stuff I turn at times, green bowls, you'd be cleaning more often than you do.
;-)
KenV
Member
I scrape the crud off, and use a white or grey scotch brite pad to get the rest with either WD40 or odorless mineral spirits. Paste wax (can says Johnsons and it lasts almost forever).
Avoid silicones or products containing silicone. It migrates and makes finishing a bear cat -- causes "fish eyes".
There are also several products sold for saw tables and such that work, but are more costly.
Avoid silicones or products containing silicone. It migrates and makes finishing a bear cat -- causes "fish eyes".
There are also several products sold for saw tables and such that work, but are more costly.
TimS124
Member
I use car wax after cleaning away anything that should've be on the rails/bed. The cleaning methods above will work just fine. Sometimes, I use a single blade razor/scraper to quickly take rust off if needed, but will often just use a rust-eraser and/or the grey plastic "wool" pads.
Boeshield T-9 is a dedicated product designed for that sort of thing but in my experience, a good carnuba wax made for cars works fine (I'm in a low humidity area though which might affect results).
Boeshield T-9 is a dedicated product designed for that sort of thing but in my experience, a good carnuba wax made for cars works fine (I'm in a low humidity area though which might affect results).
Tom T
Member
Low humidity. What is that it has rained 2 straight weeks. Unusual but we always have lots of humidity. I use T-9 as well. It helps tail stock slide real easy. Also on the tool rest slide part and also on the drill press etc.
TimS124
Member
Sadly, "low humidity" here means third year of a nasty drought and we'd LOVE to have two straight weeks of rain! We have reservoirs that have been dry for a while...I'd be happy to have to deal with more rust in the shop if it meant we'd returned to normal!
JasonC
Member
I use Boeshield on all table surfaces like the scroll saw, table saw, and drill press as well as the lathe bed and tool rest.
Always humid here.
Always humid here.
Charlie_W
Member
Cleaning: scrape if needed, steel wool / scotchbrite used with WD40.
Wax/lube: I only use a piece of Paraffin wax. I rub a Little on the bed ways as well as between and under the ways. Then buff off the excess with an old rag or paper towel. That is it. A piece of wax lasts a long time. Also, use this to slick up your tool rests, banjo and tool rest posts, any saw table/fence, fence rails, jointer/ planer beds, etc.
I started working in cabinet shops in the early 70's. Been using this method ever since. A piece of wax off your grandma's jar of jelly is ideal.
You can use paraffin for a ton of other things that need lube. Sticking doors, drawers, zippers, car window channels, car keys, hinge pins, scissors, etc, etc....a little wax will let you slide out a big freezer easily.
Wax/lube: I only use a piece of Paraffin wax. I rub a Little on the bed ways as well as between and under the ways. Then buff off the excess with an old rag or paper towel. That is it. A piece of wax lasts a long time. Also, use this to slick up your tool rests, banjo and tool rest posts, any saw table/fence, fence rails, jointer/ planer beds, etc.
I started working in cabinet shops in the early 70's. Been using this method ever since. A piece of wax off your grandma's jar of jelly is ideal.
You can use paraffin for a ton of other things that need lube. Sticking doors, drawers, zippers, car window channels, car keys, hinge pins, scissors, etc, etc....a little wax will let you slide out a big freezer easily.
mchech
Member
For cast iron I have an old electric sander reserved to power a Scotchbrite pad. Spray the surface with WD-40 and hit it with the Scotchbrite. Sometimes I substitute G-96 gun treatment for the WD-40. I let it sit and soak for a few minutes then I wipe dry with paper towel.
steve worcester
Member
if there are rust spots or the banjo just doesn't move smoothly, hit it with some scotchbrite or event 600 girt. Then a coat of a drying lube, Boeshield works great or a bicycle dry lube (something with PTF I think).
Also hit the bottom of the banjo and the tailstock to make sure they are clean and lube them. If the banjo still is stubborn, do the samething for the rod down the middle (whats that called?).
Also hit the bottom of the banjo and the tailstock to make sure they are clean and lube them. If the banjo still is stubborn, do the samething for the rod down the middle (whats that called?).