Last Bullet Pen question for 2009...promise!

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jleiwig

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Jan 10, 2007
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Monroe, Ohio, USA.
So I've read all the bullet threads I can find, and I'm still curious what brand copper bullet you all are using for your pens?

I've read about the one barnes bullet that appeared to work really good, but it appears they discontinued it.

I haven't made it to the gun shop yet to see what they have because they close at the same time I get off work.

I'm looking for 30 cal...prefer solid copper, but will take leaded if I have to.
 
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Justin, I had a hard time finding them and an even harder time finding them with a good price. After reading on here that the copper is harder to drill then the leaded bullets I went that leaded route. I am sure someone else will come along with the info you need.
 
Justin, I had a hard time finding them and an even harder time finding them with a good price. After reading on here that the copper is harder to drill then the leaded bullets I went that leaded route. I am sure someone else will come along with the info you need.

Which ones did you use though? I don't study ammo in depth, so I'm trying to cheat a bit I guess.
 
I'm using Barnes 30 cal .308 dia 165 GR "X" bullets, number 30825, that I purchased from a local gun shop this past summer. Solid copper, no boat tail, no crimping rings (? - smooth surface). For drilling, I use metal cutting oil, not PAM or other kitchen non-stick spray - take it slow, and clear the drill cuttings frequently. I prefer drilling solid copper instead of lead. When drilling from the back-side, I cut my own taper "boat tail" to help center the brass tubes during assembly.
 
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Like Rob,I also use the the lead bullets,not sure of the brand,I just heat them with a propane torch and the lead melts,falls out ,then drill them.Hope that helps!
Gary
 
I use and sell pulled military bullets. They have the lead melted out and have a steel liner under the copper jacket. This makes them very strong and durable. I can drop a completed pen, point down, onto concrete (3 to 4 feet) and the tip is barely dented. Pushing the refill into the tip will straighten it as good as new.

Plain bullets and casing are available here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48230

And powder-coated assemblies are located here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53990
 
Another user of surplus mil spec FMJ bullets. I got a case of Korean war Vintage 30 cal cartridges, been shooting them and making pens for two years, still have 3 or 4 hundred left of the original 1,000. They are already open at the base, and steel under the copper jacket, so they drill very easily after the lead is melted out.
 
One of you guys that uses the real bullets as your nibs... sure would be nice if one of you could do a quick little tutorial on how you drill the bullets.... I could figure it out, but I tend to be lazy and it's so much easier to just look at the pictures and see how it's done...
 
I use the Hornady 30 cal 150 gr. full metal jacket boattail stock # 3037 Drill a hole in the point using two jacobs chucks, one dead end one live end. About a qaurter of an inch into the point then melt the lead out. Here are a couple of bad pics of the box and bullett. bulletredo.JPG

boxredo.JPG
 
One of you guys that uses the real bullets as your nibs... sure would be nice if one of you could do a quick little tutorial on how you drill the bullets.... I could figure it out, but I tend to be lazy and it's so much easier to just look at the pictures and see how it's done...

Too lazy to use the library also, I see.:biggrin:
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2007/streamlinedcartridgepen.pdf

While I don't DRILL out the lead anymore, everything else about drilling the bullet is the same. If you want to melt the lead out, just stop drilling after you've gone through the copper at the tail of the bullet.
 
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