Laser engraver

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Teniko

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I am currently doing research into purchasing a laser for pens and small craft items. To you that own a laser, do you have a brand and wattage recomendation? Any thoughts on the subject, and or different applications in which you use it for additional income/fun would be welcome. Thanks, David.
 
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airrat

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David another site that might have some answers is sawmill creek. They have a section on just engraving. Some good people there. They are the ones that pointed me to this site.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/index.php?

laser woodworking section
 

btboone

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David, there are a couple name brands like Universal Laser Systems, Epilog, and a couple others that look comparable. I have a 130 watt one, which is way overkill for pens. I imagine 20 watts could do it, but 30 to 50 watts might be faster or more flexible for different applications. For most things cut, you can simply slow down the feedrate to compensate for a lower wattage. A rotary axis isn't necessary for words or pictures on one side, but comes in handy if you want designs to go around the pen. The table size is probably sufficient for whatever you need, but try to think of what it might be used for (signs, placques, etc) in the future. You will need a strong fan to evacuate the smoke. I used a small dust collector and vented to outside with that.

I got a used system from www.usedlasers.com They recondition the systems to good working condition, so may be a good way to go to save money on a higher wattage laser. On the other hand, newer lasers will have more advanced software and hardware that drive them, so are never a bad bet. Some smaller lasers might start in the $8K range or so.
 

Teniko

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Thanks for the replies, and the link.

Bruce, are any of the lasers vented in such a way or is there a setup that you know of that would allow one to take a laser to a craft show for engraving on site?
Also, was the use of the laser self taught or were there classes or individuals that taught you how to get the most out of your laser?
 

ldimick

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Westminster, CA, USA.
David,

I know of a local woodworker/turner who has an old one for sale locally. He wants $4500 and he says it still has 9500 hours left on it. It will only do 11x11. He is in Orange, CA. Let me know if you want more details.
 

btboone

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David, I've seen people using a shop vac or small dust collector at shows or at Woodcraft. You just want to clear the smoke so that the lens isn't coated with particles. Carbon dioxide lasers work in the far infrared, so normal optics don't work. The lens is an orange color and is made from stuff called zinc selenide. You don't want to buy a bunch of those. They get expensive.

The laser was self taught. They should have a book with instructions. Normal X-Y plotting is very simple; it can work with raster graphics like a photo, or with vector graphics, like a CAD drawing. In raster mode, the laser scans back and forth adding lots of small dots like a dot matrix printer. In vector mode, it follows the lines drawn. Vector mode takes less power. On mine, you can dictate the power by the color in a CAD drawing. There might be 16 customizable (maybe more) power settings. You can equate red lines to 85% power, 63% speed, and 400 dots per inch, for example. The DPI can go way down to something like 50 for things like serrations in notebook paper to 1000 DPI for extremely detailed engraving. Most woods and things that burn more easily get something like 300 DPI to keep it from igniting. Dialing in the proper speeds and feeds takes some experimentation. They will give you good guidelines to start from.

The laser is driven from a program like Corel Draw or AutoCAD. It is essentially thought of as a plotter, and the plotter configuration is where you make the changes for power setting and things like that.

A rotary axis is a little more tricky. On mine, you input the diameter of an object and it will scale the drawing you have to wrap around the part. You need to be pretty precise with your measurements if designs are to come around and meet. This is why I use CAD to drive mine. I get very good plot control this way. When burning a simple one time thing, I'll first burn the design onto a piece of cardboard taped to the floor and go back and position the real object where the engraved outline was. This allows for dead nuts positioning without wasting expensive parts.

I'm about to work on a very tough laser project. It will draw a continuous design around a curving pen body. This will mean that my graphics will have to be scaled in several slices to relate to the correct diameter of the pen for any given X dimension. It should be a challenge.[;)]
 

Teniko

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Thanks again for the responses[:)].
Lynn, yes, please e-mail details as I would like to check into it.
Bruce, it is good to hear that one can learn on your own and thanks for the info. Good luck on your project and post some pics as I would be interested to visually see what you are describing. Thanks, David
 
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