Lacquer finish questions

[mdburn_em]

I've just spent many enjoyable hours reading and rereading threads on this site. I have become convinced to attempt the Lacquer method of finishing. It appears to me that this method may be among the best if you have highly figured wood and wish to show the figure off in the most striking way possible. I have become moderately proficient at the CA method. I've had some spectacular successes as well as equally spectacular failures. [V]
As I embark on my lacquer adventure, numerous questions come to mind.

1. What is the difference between spraying and brushing lacquer. Does spraying provide more even coverage? Is brushing more likely to sag?

2. Eagle has often referred to "hand rubbed" when discussing lacquer. What does hand rubbed mean?

3. Most indicate they lightly sand between coats. Is that one specific grit? All the MM grits? What is the sanding accomplishing?

4. Is the sanding best done with the lathe spinning or could it be done while stationary, off the lathe and being manually turned to cover all areas?

5. When people speak of setting the blanks aside for several days to allow them to dry, is that on the mandrel?

Thank you for putting up with my questions.

 

[jeffj13]

Mark,

I'll give you my answers:

1. With any finish, not just lacquer, I think spraying allows you to control the amount of finish that is applied. You can apply a much lighter coat, which helps prevent sags and runs.

2. Not sure what Eagle means, but I do "rub out" the finish after the lacquer cures. I do this by wet sanding through all the mm grits.

3. I don't sand between coats, since lacquer, when applied, melts into the previous coat and I rub out the finish at the end, I don't need a smooth surface between coats. If I were to sand between coats, I would lightly sand with 600 grit paper.

4. When I rub out the finish, for each grit I first sand with the lathe spinning at its lowest speed. I then shut off the lathe and sand with the grain.

5. I take my blanks off the lathe to cure.

Hope that helps.

jeff

 

[DCBluesman]

Not a lot of difference between my and Jeff's answers, but here goes.
1. Spraying is a bit easier than brushing on pens.
2. When Eagle refers to hand rubbed, he (and I) talk about applying lacquer with a soft cloth by hand. It's the best method I've found for applying even coats and requires minimal cleanup afterwards.
3. Not all lacquer burns in, so I sand between nights of finishing, just before I start the new application. In the same night, most multiple coats become one (burn in).
4. I find that a quick run through the micromesh both with the lathe spinning and lengthwise with it off, then a trip to the buffer is enough. 4-7 days later I re-buff, apply TSW and final buff.
5. All curing takes place off the mandrel. Many of us have drying racks made using dowels where we let our pens rest and cure.
Make sure to read Russ Fairfield's articles on finishing at his site www.woodturnerruss.com . I'd be nowhere without it!

 

[bnoles]

Mark,

I use Lou's method as he taught me and have had great success. It has turned my finishing process from shame to pride. I really like the hand rub method, less fumes and mess than spraying. Try it at least once and judge for yourself.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

My method is much the same, I will not repost what already been said, but I would start off with the Deft clear gloss in the spray can. What "I" do is spray them on special spray rods I made. Down & simple, make a simple handle and drill a 7mm hole into it. Now epoxy some 1/4"-20 threaded rod into the handle. Next run a 1/4-20 nut down towards the handle end to adjust the "length". I cut up slimline tubes into 3 pieces and slip them on the rod to space the blank. (FYI, the inserts you make for the pen milling bit can be used to put larger blanks one the spray rod) If done this way you will not have any bridging to the bushings and if you add a screw eye you can hang them in between coats. I use an acorn nut on the tip to keep the clear off the threads, adjust the lenght with the lower nut.

These will keep the clear off your lathe, allow you to dry them in a nice warm room. (or A/C in the summer to stop lacquer blushing) You will also keep all the clear off your bushings as it stops the bridging and chipping at the edges of your barrels. A light hand spin on the pen mill can scrape any bit on the milled end.

I do not sand inbetween coats and any "True" lacquer will melt in as long as the paint is still "open" If left for a couple days you will need to scuff it. I personaly wet sand thru the MM steps and polish them with some auto compound and glaze. They are silicoln free and designed for polishing lacquer and other auto paints.

Once the clear has been applied I let them set on section of my pegboard rack for drying.
Here are my spray rods:

 

[ilikewood]

Dipping is another good lacquer application method as well. Firefyters tools will work in the dipping application as it will prevent the dreaded "ring" from forming on the lower part of the barrel.

One hint: if you are going to dip, thin your lacquer down at least 50% with a really good lacquer thinner. Dip, dry, flip, dip, dry, etc until the perfect finish is achieved. You can also put it back on the lathe and sand again or use MM to get that perfect luster.

 

[cbonner]

As stated earlier in this post, there is no need to sand between individual coats. However, I sand the surface flat prior to starting a new finishing session. The purpose of this is to fet a flat, even surface for the following coats to join. When you do not do this, whatever imperfections exist will usually become more pronounced and more difficult to deal with in the final sanding and "rubbing out" steps.

As for "rubbing out", this is the final step of polishing a surface to the desired sheen. In regular furniture finishing, this is done with a felt block, rubbing oil and pumice/ rottenstone. Instead of this, I sand it down through all my sanding grits, then use automotive polishing compounds.

A huge shortcut is being discussed in another thread. In short, start the process by using one of the CA methods to fill in the pores, sand it smooth, then set in with the lacquer. I just started doing this and it looks like I will equal my two week lacquer process with four days of CA chased by lacquer.

 

[mdburn_em]

Thank you to everyone for your help. When it warms up, I'll get to go out and play again and I will use the combined knowledge of this great group to to see what marvels I can create. Thank you again.